A blackened Stainless Steel bezel would be a neat optimization of that pattern… 
Not a bad idea at all 
My on/off switch was not working, and I was not sure why, so I changed switches from my clear L6 to the black L6. Still did not work, so I changed tubes and then the switch worked. After trial and error, I found it that if the tube to the head is not tightened quite firm on both my L6's, it won't power on. Then the clear switch looked kind of cool on the black tube, so I switched the head over too, and in real, this flashlight looks very menacing now. I really like it.
The pic you posted above I think the tube is wrongly inserted. The tactical ringy side need to be at the tailcap. And the smooth ring doesn’t tigtened fully because I can see a gap between the blocky style and smooth ring. Maybe these together caused your turning on problems.
Was just playing around with that myself when I saw your post! It came delivered the wrong way and I was looking at the original pic at the beginning of this thread and changed it around just now, thanks.
I also noticed on both my L6's, the tactical rings are too small and will not fit over the end piece, to allow the tail cap to tighten. They are just big enough to slide over the threads and that's it. ID of tactical ring is 32mm and OD of tube where ring should slide over is 35mm. Odd isn't it? Got one from GB and one from BGood, maybe I should ask them if they would send me the correct ring, but I bet they just don't have that stuff lying around.
You must unscrew the hidden smooth ring and to put on his place tactical one.
I’m fairly certain you have all the right stuff but yeah it’s odd that it came assembled wrong. In your picture the simple ring is only half threaded on and the tube is backwards. To thread the tactical ring in place you have to remove the simple ring first. That simple ring covers the threads and it blends right in with the tube so well that if you don’t know it’s there you won’t even see it. Unscrew the “hidden ring” and you should be able to thread the tactical ring on in its place. I can dig up a picture to show you what I’m talking about.
Edit: This is the simple ring we’re referring to. Until you unscrew that you can’t thread the tactical ring in place. It’s one or the other. Many have been tripped up by that because it blends in so well which of course was the point. 
Tangra and J-Dub74, thank you! That hidden ring is so well machined that I would have never known it screws off. It just goes to show you the quality and attention to detail of this product, it's incredible.
LOL…bet ya feel better now !! :+1:
Yep, life is good again LOL
:+1: Your post made me smile. You would not believe how many times I and others have had to explain that to L2 and L6 owners. Even I was fooled for a few minutes when I received the first tubes like this and I’m the one that asked him to make the simple ring to hide the threads. :person_facepalming: Upon first looking at it I thought “What the heck? Simon forgot to thread the end of the tube for the tactical ring!”. Then I looked closer and smiled with delight. :laughing:
I see that Tangra posted the answer too while I was s-l-o-w-l-y typing my reply. LOL Thanks Tangra.
Well, to be honest, I didn't want to look like an idiot posting that the ring size is too small, but dam it, I couldn't figure it out because it was so well hidden LOL. :THUMBS-UP: :BEER:
Is there any info when the short tube that you are working on will be available for purchase? I'd get a few right away as soon as they are ready.
Will the short tube be available in both black and clear finish?
And it is recommended to remove the O-ring before change smooth ring with tactical ring because the ring threads can hurt the O-ring.
Speaking of which, I just got the first one built and working today.
Bone stock L6 3A (first batch) does ~6000 lumens at turn on falling to ~5500 @ 30 seconds (going from memory). Not bad at all. Not sure on amps yet, have not tested it.
It gets warm but handles the massive amount of heat surprisingly well.
It is a noticeable improvement in brightness but once you get into the 2500+ lumen range it takes a LOT more to look brighter (about 4x the lumens to look twice as bright). As such it visually looks about 50% brighter, still not a bad tradeoff. Plus thats what low modes are for lol.
Nice TA! What a fantastic and relatively easy mod to the becoming legend L6! 
The upcoming Q8 is the only thing I can think of that even comes close to the bang for the buck or general usefulness of the L6.
I will have to wait and see how the Q8 does once it is released but it is gonna be a hard choice.
I personally like the SRK format a bit better, more batteries, smaller size, same basic light output but the L6 looks better.
Also having just tried narsil for the first time I can say it is truly a thing of beauty. I didn’t expect to like the ramping as much as I do.
One could argue because the L6 can use 26650 the run times will be similiar to using 4 18650s? A light like the S70 with the carry strap is great because you have no need to hold it. Also the L6 could possibly gun mounted i guess Its a bit big. If your Arnie you will have no issues 
I prefer the beam patterns of the L6 style flashlights compared to multi LED Soda-can lights
Are we going to get the Q8 for 40 USD still or had the price gone up?
2x 5000ma 26650 = 10,000ma
4x 3500ma 18650 = 14,000ma
So more but not a life changing amount more. Although in stock form the Q8 will be pulling more power and as such actual run times should be very close.
The Q8 is still going to be $40, With both the Q8 and GT people just keep assuming that talking about something means a price hike when even if the feature was implemented it would not effect the price without giving people a choice first /rant.
But this thread is about the L6, I was simply comparing to the only known light that can really compete besides the S70 that I know of.
Having had my DIY Q8 for some time and an L6 sitting on the shelf side by side, I can safely say that it is a toss up which one gets used more. It just depends on the situation and usually which one is easier to grab.
I do like the L6 when I know I will be using it for awhile and the size is not an issue, it is more comfortable to hold long term and more “printable”.
plus the tactical ring allows you to use a cigar hold with surprising ease.
With the Texas Avenger driver with narsil in the L6 things changed though, it is now a new beast and it will be much harder for the Q8 to live up to it.
I just keep playing with the ramping, it is so much fun! lol
Yea ramping is good lets you chose the perfect levels. With all the other group buys in the past we have had slight price increases with new implementations not much maybe 5-10 dollars max. only one that didn’t was the Luckysun D80 i think.
In fairness i would be running my Samsung 25r in the light and they are only 2500MAh. I am yet to buy the GAs . I think the 25r perform on par with the VTC5 for me. But i guess the Q8 wont be drawing the most amps so i could use more MAH cells.
Ramping was not my idea for sure, had no interest in it, but when there were multiple requests coming in, I had to take a shot at it. I did not think I'd like it, but once I started using it - it's impressive. Only thing is I wish I could combine ramping and mode switching, specially with the triple channel driver because right now, you can't tell where your ramping level is at - in the 1 7135 range, 7135 bank range, or FET range? Think'n of adding something sneaky to indicate what range you are in - could do it kind of sort of offline based on the last used level. Since it's saved you can return to that level and know what channel you are running on. Hhhmmmm...
Ok I'm stupid - why not use the indicator LED? 1, 2, or 3 blinks, but how to easily activate it? Ohhh - automatically blink out the channel # (1, 2, or 3) when you stop ramping? do the blinks just once, maybe twice then stop. I got a function to blink out any 1 or 2 digit #: using it for batt voltage, firmware vers #, and now temperature in new NarsilTriple version.
Might work... Could be a config setting to enable/disable.
For cells, I'm solder blob'ing a whole bunch - VTC6 is the winner for max amps, solder blob'ed. The GA's though are my preference mostly