Added to my 2016 to-buy-list. Hope there will be a cheaper MT-G2 option too.
I hope Simon uses a XHP70 SinkPad instead of the usual bargain basement aluminum MCPCBs.
I had somewhere around $60 in my head. So that sounds perfect.
Also I won’t use the 15% discount, just like I didn’t use it when I purchased the L2 from him. I know Simon is doing this for us so to thank him I will pay the full price in return.
Or larger (proprietary) 26mm-30mm copper DTP board? :heart_eyes: But a 20mm StinkPad is awright too! :bigsmile: Same size head/reflector as the L2? :~ Driver cavity looks to be bigger then the L2, what size will it be? Will extra OP reflectors be made for purchase too? 
Totally agree with you Dale!! Just had to fix that error part for ya Dale!! :bigsmile:
The SinkPAD made for MK-R is a 6V star that fits this emitter and has much bigger traces. The one made for the XHP-70 is a dual 6V/12V option star and has thin traces because of that. Either would work at 5A, but those that want to hot rod it would fare better with the MK-R version.
Changing the AutoCad design slightly wouldn’t cost any more in production, the CNC machines would just follow slightly different routes in the making of the parts. Having that big bulky area on the reflector gains nothing for anybody, likewise the wasted air space between reflector and head is doing nothing, so utilizing that space so the fins could be deeper is really a simple and very effective option, the light wouldn’t even look different because of it. A few fins at the bottom would be deeper, is all.
Not drinking, very seldom do, I just forgot that the 4 emitters are in 2S2P, which changes the game when looking at a 5A delivery. It’s this same 2S2P configuration that makes the 6V/12V SinkPAD have the skinny traces, they have to supply 6V to each side, splitting the 4 dies so long skinny traces route all over the face of the board. The MK-R star is simple with wide traces, capable of much more power delivery.
Modding this light would potentially gain a couple thousand lumens. (power bump)
Using a quality copper dtp mcpcb is really important with an xhp70. I hope Simon understand that.
Also to be honest I agree with Dale, but if Simon is already in the production fase then it will be too late.
I never discount Dale’s advice on these things and for the record I agree. I just don’t know if it’s too late in the process or if Simon will be willing to make another change at this point. If I remember correctly Simon is putting the emitter on copper but I’m going to check with Simon on both concerns. I’ll keep you posted.
Typical of nearly every large high powered flashlight, there are huge thermal bottlenecks in the head (observe the pinched areas of aluminum while following the yellow lines from the floor plate to the bezel). This will prevent heat from traveling from the floor plate through the entire head to disperse the heat into the air. The results are trapped heat at the base of the head, which also heats the batteries to high temperatures during extended use (especially the 1st cell). Using your lithium batteries to absorb heat is not good! And once they are hot, they take a long time to cool down inside the battery tube (2X not good!). :Sp
Id like to offer a few suggestions which could transform this light from just another large Convoy into one of industry renowned stellar performance that will smoke its competition in price, functionality, performance and mod friendliness:
- Bolster the wall thickness inside the head to closely follow the contours of the reflector. Keep the walls as thick as possible. There should be very little space anywhere between the reflector and the inside of the head (less than 2mm). All that dead air we now see between the reflector and head should be solid aluminum!
- Trim all that wasted aluminum from the fat mid portion of the reflector so the head can be built thicker to help conduct heat.
- Make ALL the cooling fins the same diameter as the bezel to add surface area to exchange heat with the air. While we have grown used to seeing lights with useless small tapered cooling fins, they are ineffective and only there for aesthetics. The highest concentration of heat is generated at the floor plate where the largest/deepest cooling fins are needed to conduct heat… not those silly worthless little girly fins! :Sp Its time to get serious and offer a light that works as good as it looks!
Something like a scaled up C12 (only much better):
- Keep the floor plate at least as thick as it appears to be in the rendering. It looks like a chunky 8mm. VERY NICE! The thicker the better.
- 2 x 26650 cells will get sucked dry in no time at all. Much better would be 3 x 32650 so the famous high capacity/low sag (yet inexpensive) TF32650 cells could be used. The unprotected version of those cells remain the highest capacity of all that have been tested to date (6,700mah) and dont even break a sweat at +10A. Without them, the TrustFire TR-J20 would never be able to reach its fullest, long running mod potential.
- Is the reflector really only 65mm? Again, the light would get heat soaked very quickly becasue it seriously lacks the surface area necessary to transfer the heat from a +40 watt emitter. Also, the smallish reflector would hamper the efficiency of the large XHP70. How about 100-120mm reflector? This would provide a much larger head surface area to transfer heat while putting out more lumens and throwing them much much farther for the same amount of power. :bigsmile: Its time to stop choking the potential of the incredible XHP-70 and unleash its full capability.
- Offer separate battery extension tubes for 4 cell mod configurations. Higher voltage/less amps if far less picky with power requirements than low voltage/high amps, while realizing far greater run times. Again, hopefully for 32650 cells. We can always use plastic sleeve adapters to drop down to 26650 cells for those who prefer the smaller cells (Such is the case for the TrustFire TR-J20)
- Rather a no-brainier, but a Copper DTP MCPCB should be mandatory for any flashlight that creates this much heat.
- Quality dual sided AR lens… absolutely mandatory.
- Obviously, also offer as a host kit with the ability to purchase all the parts separately (including orange peal and smooth reflectors), drivers, battery tubes, switches, etc. Id buy a ton of them in bulk quantity if the specs were changed and proven effective!
- With different battery tube, reflector finish and driver options, this could be a modular system offered from 2 - 4 cell configurations to handle the XHP-50, XHP-70 and XHP-35 while properly dispensing with the enormous amount of heat these emitters generate. A modular system would also keep manufacturing costs down while offering several different configurations… rather than just one mediocre, hot running, inefficient flashlight.
The one guy that could pull this off while maintaining a quality product is Simon. Then we could ditch all those other overpriced poorly designed XHP based flashlights and base our large single emitter flashlight mods in mostly one host. The stock offerings as well as the mod potential could be endless.
So far, the only “out of the box” large flashlight I am aware of that offers proper heat sinking, a great mod host, quality and a fair price is the TrustFire TR-J20, although it could stand to have had larger cooling fins at the base. Simon could do much better while providing the best “beast” light to date.
Im not holding my breath, but it would sure tear down all the other overpriced failures that have been based on XHP emitters so far. The changes would completely transform the light posted in the OP, but would also make it worthy for the XHP-70. Otherwise, its just another 65mm XHP (but with legendary Convoy budget quality).
Maybe offer both!!! :bigsmile: :bigsmile:
What do others think?
I’ll buy 4 Right NOW!!!
+1 DOWN WITH GIRLY FINS!!!
Dear Mr. FlashPilot,
I’m certainly not going to discount such a heap of well thought out suggestions. I don’t have the time to respond to every detail right now but I’ll do my best. Here are my thoughts on your thoughts…
…huge thermal bottlenecks in the head …prevent heat from traveling from the floor plate through the entire head to disperse the heat into the air… trapped heat at the base of the head, which also heats the batteries
I can’t argue with any of that. I see what Simon was going for with more reflector/head contact area where the reflector but you’re right. Because it’s not at the bottom which is the only place I see it as beneficial, it’s a bottleneck/heat trap.
Bolster the wall thickness inside the head to closely follow the contours of the reflector. Keep the walls as thick as possible. There should be very little space anywhere between the reflector and the inside of the head (less than 2mm). All that dead air we now see between the reflector and head should be solid aluminum!
I agree to about following the contours but thickness needs to be kept within reason for both build cost and shipping cost otherwise this becomes a $100 light.
Trim all that wasted aluminum from the fat mid portion of the reflector so the head can be built thicker to help conduct heat.
Agreed but again within reason for cost effectiveness.
Make ALL the cooling fins the same diameter as the bezel to add surface area to exchange heat with the air. While we have grown used to seeing lights with useless small tapered cooling fins, they are ineffective and only there for aesthetics. The highest concentration of heat is generated at the floor plate where the largest/deepest cooling fins are needed to conduct heat… not those silly worthless little girly fins! Sick Its time to get serious and offer a light that works as good as it looks!
I cannot agree with you 100% here. Simon has always been about building good looking lights so aesthetic value will always matter to him. My influence is just that. He makes the calls, but he has always listened to reason whenever I’ve presented it. The examples I’ve seen of lights with perfect cooling are on the ugly side IMHO. I think most things in life come down to finding the proper balance and this is no exception. Perfect cooling means an UGLY light. Perfect looks means poor cooling. Find the balance is my thinking. That said I agree that more can be done to better cool the L6.
Something like a scaled up C12 (only much better)
U-G-L-Y it aint got no alibi it’s UGLY!
Much better would be 3 × 32650…
Not a very common cell and you’re adding almost the cost of the light in batteries to power it. I for one just can’t afford that.
How about 100-120mm reflector?
No disrespect but dude that’s a satellite dish
extension tubes for 4 cell mod configurations…
He’s not going to make it if he’s going to sell it to 50 people worldwide. Once the light is released maybe we could do a poll on who would buy a 4 cell tube
Copper DTP MCPCB…
Fairly certain that was addressed at the outset but I’ve asked Simon to verify.
Quality dual sided AR lens… absolutely mandatory.
Absolutely agreed. Simon is working on creating a high quality lens, AR coated on both sides.
offer as a host kit with the ability to purchase all the parts…
Host will be offered. All the parts individually is a lofty goal but a good one.
With different battery tube, reflector finish and driver options, this could be a modular system offered from 2 – 4 cell configurations to handle the XHP-50, XHP-70 and XHP-35 while properly dispensing with the enormous amount of heat these emitters generate. A modular system would also keep manufacturing costs down while offering several different configurations… rather than just one mediocre, hot running, inefficient flashlight.
Agreed
The one guy that could pull this off while maintaining a quality product is Simon.
Agreed 
Well… that took a long time to respond to but thank you for such well thought feedback. Respect. 
I'm fine with girly fins. :P
C12 is one ugly little light. Definitely would not buy a larger version of it.
I'd be interested to see how much benefit large fins are versus small fins. I would guess it wouldn't make much difference unless there is a lot of air movement.
I like the external dimensions just as they are. I would like to have a much smaller light over the Acebeam K60. More internal mass in the head yes, huge external fins no. Lets look at battery extensions and 32650 tubes for future up grades. 65mm reflector even with light OP on this LED at 3500 lumens is going to throw further than what the great unwashed masses need.
For myself a 50mm reflector running on 2-32650’s up to 7 amps with a magnetic ring selector would be tops. Until then please keep this on close to the picture.
Does anyone know 32650’s that can deliver the amperage we like? All the “D” size Li-Ion’s I’ve found are weak.
Protected trustfire does about 7 amps. Test of TrustFire TF32650 6000mAh (Black-red)
Others;
Feilong Li-Ion 32650 cells TESTED! | Candle Power Flashlight Forum!
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Feilong%2032650%206000mAh%20(Gray)%20UK.html
I’d want at least 12A, even 15-20A if possible. HKJ says the Feilong can’t handle over 10A and everything else doesn’t even come close to that. Capacity is good on the Feilong though, can’t argue that, but what do they cost? $24 each? The new Efest Purple 26650’s fare much better at a more reasonable price.
The King Kong 26700 is a good cell if it’ll fit, paired up in series it’s an even bigger problem.
You can Gold Plate the trustfire’s and I still wouldn’t take em, free.
Often wondered why you just couldn’t machine the inside of the head with the profile of a reflector and just polish and mirror/vapor coat it? Get rid of the reflector, get rid of the air gaps? With super fine (more threads per inch/mm) precision threads mate the pill to it just above the emitter shelf. Make all mating surfaces inside and out mate perfectly for heat transfer, even the fins. Make the outside from the bezel finned all the way down to the battery tube? If the fins are mated (make full contact) where they join at or just below the emitter line, would it work? Would it suffice? Maybe have to be lapped together? I really like the idea’s Dale and FP have presented, real food for thought! I know it won’t happen with the L6, but maybe in the future?? A Convoy Super L-? As far as optimal power supply, battery configuration, maybe 2S3P, I don’t know much about it yet :_(
Interesting!! What driver will Simon use for this one? If it’s a decent driver there would be no need to buy as a host, under $60 is really a steal!
Interesting concept if you’re going for a thrower since I can’t see how to properly machine an OP reflector. :bigsmile:
I’m typically going to argue that aesthetics are taken into consideration. That said, would I buy an ugly light that was phenominally functional? If the price was right you bet I would. Any way you look at it I love the ideas that are tossed around here.