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I think I agree, shouldn’t have called them milling marks.
Now that is weird? Looks like Extrusion or Broach marks to me!
My (2) right off the machine bare naked L6’s have radial tooling marks, and not straight thru either, like it was bored/gun drilled maybe reamed from both ends, I can see the tooling transition marks inside!
I have seen this done on Trunion Machines were opposing spindles come in from both sides, while the tube is clamped. Like on axle tubes and PTO shafts.
Bare L6 Tube
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Here’s last years black tube, as well. Same as KawiBoy’s.
Shorty tube arrived!
Can’t do any readings, but output seems comparable to my clear L6 with warmer tint.
Might be expandable mandrel marks from loading and unloading on/off the mandrel, but it sure don’t look like it.
Still strange why my tubes have radial machining marks!
Outsourced? Copied?
Keep in mind that here in the States you’d be darn lucky to find a machine shop that would turn a battery tube, no anodizing, for the price of this entire light. Just sayin…
More data points, the Clear L6’s are also measuring continuity on the exterior, from tail to head, randomly. I get similar results on a clear C8 (inside and out). Black one is generally good.
Looks like Clear anodizing process is on the lightweight side. Although outside still looks good.
Cheers man, and thanks for being here bonking heads with us to try and solve this.
Far as I myself go, just widen the tube. If someone complains about rattling, it’s just a matter of wrapping a paper sheet around the cells. I did it all the time when I had 2xAA torches, and even a simple supermarket receipt does the job if you wrap it in the middle where the two batteries meet. Simplest mod ever.
Junk mail. Those little 5x7 semi ridgid cards advertising stuff? Perfect battery wrap for spacer, works for 2 cell lights just as well. 
See, Dale gets it 
Even I get it, once in a while. lol I’ll forget in a matter of moments, but still…
Like, I just blinded myself with a 2042 lumen SBT-70 in a Fandyfire Rook. You’d think I would have learned better by now…
Simon can wrap the lights with Chinese post cards, and we can use them for the new way over size battery tubes for the unprotected battery men, wouldn’t that be cool!!! :+1:
I purchased one from Mountain Electronics, never heard of Convoy but a high lumen battery that runs on fat lithiums seems like an interesting flashlight. Will see how it works out when I receive it.
I do think having the power at the rear and the mode selection on the front kind of an odd design. It would have made more sense to put the on/off button on the front which is what most people expect, ie:if I hand this to someone they should expect simple operation of on/off when pressing the front button not having to guess and find the back button. This can also result in someone accidentally switching modes repeatedly in error instead of shutting down the light.
Use it for a week and see if you still have the same opinion. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion of course but personally I really like the switch arrangement. I guess I might be a just a little bit biased though. 
Congrats on your first Convoy! I doubt it will be your last. :sunglasses:
Not sure how the stock driver works as I got mine as a host from MTN and use the MTN 30mm DD driver, but the back tail switch is basically just a lockout for me when it’s on the shelf.
If I were to hand anyone the light I would leave the tail switch on, then they could just use the side switch for on/off and mode changes.
I really like the tail switch as a lockout, wish more momentary lights had it to avoid draining batteries over time.
The Convoy driver does not allow standby modes. You turn on the rear switch and the light turns on in whichever of the 4 levels it was last used in. Then you press the side button to change levels. A double click activates strobe. Use the rear switch to turn the light off. The advantage here is you can flash the light like morse code using the rear switch. Its “tactical”.
No one has posted a video showing how the MTN 30mm DD works. Maybe you could show the user interface? I’m curious about it.
Hi!
Just two questions,
1. What tailcap current do you get with stock, and R100 moded driver? I’m getting 5,8A with R100, it seems low (using new LittoKala)
2. SMO ordered, I’m going to increase throw, did someone mod reflector (like Convoy L6 Smooth Reflector so sanding raised portion) and stay with dome? (I would like to avoid dedoming). Does it have any sense?
Thanks.
If you’re measuring current with a multimeter and not a clamp meter , you’re probably getting a wrong (much lower) value .
Thanks,
Don’t have clamp metter unfortunately, just wonder what current do you achieve on tailcap after resistor mod. Is it similar to my 5,8A… ?