I feel like my idea didn’t convey. If it did, and I’m being dumb, I double apologize.
My idea in that thread is for a new firmware/UI to use for lights with a standard forward clicky.
I’m looking for other FC lovers to weigh in on the concept, and separately for someone to offer help writing the code to achieve such a interface.
I think its time I dive in and learn to write my own code. I’m honestly embarrassed I haven’t done that yet.
I used the Convoy 90cri XHP35 in a recent L2B P60 build. Very, very nice tint and color.
Does anyone know if the M2 has the same problem with the M21B where the LED is not centered?
I bought an M21A recently as it had the CSLPM1 emitter I like and it’s a brilliant budget thrower. Every bit as good as lights costing 5X+ the price like my Olight warrior X-Turbo. Pity the don’t sell rat tail pressure switches for them but I’m going to make a few up for gun lights.
So I’ve continued to mod my M2. Spoiler here is it’s my favorite thrower right now and hitting 108kcd cold turn-on 100kcd 30sec.
I’ve perfected the focus, there are zero spill artifacts or rings. The corona is now a symmetric 4 petals with an additional inscribed square. I’m still using the Black Flat S from mouser on a Noctigon XP20. It’s now sitting on top of 0.6mm Cu disc which is absolutely needed to allow the reflector sit close enough to the mcpcb. It’s secured down with pan head screws that allow it to be perfectly centered. The SS bezel was flame colored to remove the last of the peripheral spill artifacts. Lastly, I’m using a thick UCL glass lens from flashlightlens.com. It’s clear as clear can be. Unlike the convoy AR coated lens which is noticeably green and raises the duv, there is no visible tint change whatsoever.
There is no driver and it’s running direct off an LG H26 high drain cell. Springs are bypassed with a copper disc contact soldered on top and tail switch is a forward clicky. Seeing about 5.5A peak. But even with the cell at 3.83V I still recorded 99kcd turn on. Some may question this configuration, but for my purpose, I truly think this ideal. It will virtually never fail and will always turn on to the mode I want and never step down… not to mention 100% efficiency and costing next to nothing.
Cosmetic and ergo changes have included swapping to FW3A rubber cigar grip rings (two back to back) and I returned to the stock black switch boot since it has thinner, softer walls that reduce the activation pressure to latch the switch.
I’m considering milling/ turning the tailcap to remove the raised portions and expose the switch fully. I don’t like the sunken/recessed design for ergo reasons and I don’t care about tail-standing this particular light.
Overall, I couldn’t recommend this setup enough. I’m considering building a few to sell on here if anyone shows interest.
Can you share some more details as to how you perfected the beam? Also I cant figure out where those annoying petals come from. Also I wish Simon would read this as I think he is in denial as to if a problem even exists with these lights.
Simon admitted to the M2s flaws and the need to redesigned the reflector/oring interface. I will dig up the post in his main thread.
The petals are a good sign actually. They come from the corners of the square die. There will never be a perfect corona until we get round die emitters. SBT70 and 319A/B are the only non rectangle emitters I know of.
The key steps to focus this emitter were:
ok, thanks
I'm IN...terested!!
I have one still kicking around in the China postal system somewhere. If you decide to pursue this, would you be accepting lights shipped in for upgrade, or would you base it from a raw purchase? Either way, I would definitely be on board. Thanks.
Pmd