I understand and thank you. A while ago I posted the observation below. It seems like we are talking about the same thing and it’s not just an imagination in my head lol? :+1: 
I think Simon referred to this as a “tighter hotspot,” but I wasn’t sure what it meant exactly until now.
Specs of my lovely new GT-FC40 5500k, versus 4500k. It’s a R9050 LED (meaning Ra at least 90, and R9 at least 50), but I haven’t got the exact measured numbers from Simon yet.
Basically like its 4500k sibling, the GT-FC40 5500k has outstanding specs, especially for a throwy LED. 324 m in M21E is not yet matched by any LED with good CRI AFAIK. Duv hugs the BBL line. I will (of course) posts beamshots later, but the beam color of 5500k is cool daylight like with a magenta corona, whereas 4500k is best described as darker peach w/ slight magenta corona (as if it’s a mix between yellow & pink = peach).
M21E w/ Getian FT-FC40 4500k
Excellent Zero Air Report in Convoy L6 HERE:
CCT~4500
Low brightness Ra=95 R9=98 Duv 0.0001
High brightness Ra=93 R9=76 Duv 0.0016
Throw 324m (my measurement with Opple Light Master)
M21E w/ Getian GT-FC40 5500k
CCT~5300 R9050 per Simon
My Duv measurements
First turn on (cold): low brightness –0.0004, high brightness 0.0004
After 30 min (hot): low brightness –0.0018, high brightness –0.0007
Throw pending - expect medium-throw - great for a high CRI LED (not super throw class like my monster Wurkkos SBT90.2 )
Are you sure it’s a throwy LED? I thought none of these had very good cd values?
Well it’s definitely more throwy than XHP70 in M21B but it’s not a dedicated thrower.
I’ve taken numerous white wall beamshots, but feel actual scenic shots are in some way much more important. Real objects provide a realistic representation of what users will actually see in use. For example my description of 5500k beamshot: “daylight like with magenta corona” - WTH does that mean for users? So here are scenic pics of SFT40 6000k vs GT-FC40 5500k vs GT-FC40 4500k.
The scene with SFT40 is typical of CRI 60’s thrower: there’s a subjective crispness, but tone is cold/bluish, and green emphasized. I pay particular attention to the red bougainvilla color as great R9 (red) is important.
All pics taken with Canon DSLR in RAW format at Turbo turn-on, same manual settings, fixed WB 5000k.
The LED that may change your life :-), Getian FC40 4500k, added to the previous post for comparison. In real life it’s less yellowish, like real life, a late evening in my neighborhood.
I often bring two flashlights and during my walk would alternate shining one or the other on objects. Always struck by how similar this Getian is to Nichia 219b 4500k, despite the fact that its beamshot color is not the same, mostly dark peach with just a hint of magenta in the corona. Outside of Nichia E21a, IMHO in scenic shots no other LED comes closer to the famous Nichia 219b. That’s why I’ve jokingly called it the Nichia imitator.
Reproducing the important red color (R9 value) is something that most throwy (throwish?) LED’s don’t do well, but this Getian excels. Check out the red bougainvillea on the left side and how each LED reproduces it. Almost violet with SST40 6000k (!). I will do a crop of the red bougainvillea next so you could compare.
I’d have thought an XHP70 in that host would be a comparative flood monster. Almost the polar opposite of a thrower.
Yes. What I meant that it’s a throwy light, just not a dedicated thrower. ‘Cannga’ called it “medium-throw” and it fits perfectly. Can’t wait for the comparison with the B35AM version.
SS-40 or SFT40? They are quite different with vastly different amounts of throw.
Also, isn’t a Nitecore MH12S just a tube light. i.e. now way a thrower at all.
Good beamshots though and certainly shows the different tint and profiles.
I’d suggest you might want to get yourself something with more throw to see how strikingly different the beam profile is.
For example, Hank offers some cd values for the D1 Mini.
W1 (Osram CSLNM1.TG): 900lm, Lux : 110Kcd (110,000cd)
W2 (Osram CSLPM1.TG): 1300lm, Lux: 100Kcd (100,000cd)
SBT90.2: 4000lm, Lux: 100Kcd (100,000cd)
SFT-40 6500K: 1600lm, Lux: 100Kcd (100,000cd)
XP-L HI 6500K/5000K/4000K: 1300lm, Lux: 45Kcd (45,000cd)
SST-40 5000K/6500K: 2200lm, Lux: 29Kcd (29,000cd)
519A dedomed: 1200lm, Lux: 20Kcd (20,000cd)
FC-40: 1600lm, Lux: 14Kcd (14,000cd)
B35AM: 1000lm, Lux: 12Kcd (12,000cd)
Umm I sort of see. But I don’t think it is even medium throw. Not in the M21B. I’d be surprised if it is even 10,000 - 12,000cd in that reflector.
M21B actually does a touch over 40kcd with SST-40. B35AM should produce a touch less lumens but it’s domeless. We’ll see, one is on its way to ‘cannga’.
Do you have a reference for this?
I’d have said the Noctigon KR1 has a slightly better reflector for throw, Hank only lists the SST-40 in the KR1 as 29,000cd
I’ve tested an Astrolux EC01 (very similar sized reflector) at 36,000cd. But that is a fet driver on a Samsun 30Q. Not sure what the driver in the Convoy would run at.
Not sure how Hank got these numbers but some of them cannot possibly be right. Looking at SFT40 (1600lm, 100kcd) versus XPL HI (1300lm, 45kcd). If XPL HI is truly 45kcd, then the SFT40, with a larger die size and only 23% more lumens, should not be more intense than 45k(123%)=56kcd. Yet the spec says 100k, so something must be off, and by a lot!
Thanks for this great information!
Have you considered adding the M21D to your testing?
It comes with the same GT-FC40, usb-C charging, etc… just with a larger head/reflector.
I would love to see how the beam profile of the M21D compares to your already impressive stable of thoroughbreds.
@Caleb thanks for the nice comment. M21D curiously looks nearly identical to my Wurkkos TS30S, but oddly quite a bit heavier (286 gm vs 230 gm). I was looking for the perfect everyday all around walk light so this is a great light with better throw but would be too heavier too big for my use.
This next picture might be one of my all time favorite flashlight pics :-). For anyone new to flashlights, I’ve mentioned the ability to reproduce RED (R9) as being extremely important for color fidelity, I hope this picture shows why some of us talk incessantly 
about CRI and R9. And how LED colors could vary so wildly.
In real life the color of the bougainvillea is bright red. See how SST40 turns it violet, GT-FC40 5300k improves the red, and GT-FC40 4500k reproduces it beautifully.
Yes but the tree above the flowers has quite a lot of yellow tint on it. Was ie exaggerated by the camera?
@phantom, great question. It’s partially the light green-yellowish younger branches that the other 2 LEDS turn green, partially visual effect of a crop comparison of a lower CCT vs higher CCT LED. If you look at the big (non crop) picture of FC40 4500 by itself, the yellow color is not as prominent.
Followed is another pic the GT-FC40 without cropping vs similar CCT LED’s. The 2 shots with question marks : one is GT-FC40 4500k, the other is Nichia 219b 4500k.
Now I could tell the 2 LED’s apart because of certain clues, but when I first had the FC40, it was not easy. That’s why I call GT-FC40 4500k the Nichia imitator. In some aspect I actually prefer FC40 color rendering to that of the magenta Nichia.
And both Nichia and Getian make the other 2 LED’s look so green or yellow. All pics taken with Canon DSLR in RAW format with WB fixed at 5000k.
Cannga,
To compare the M21D to the TS30S seems odd to me. They have vastly different use cases.
(I read your post/review about the TS30S and was quite impressed with the amazing throw. I’m not sure that I would ever need to see anything that far away. I would probably need binoculars. Haha.)
I don’t think these two lights as comparable… except perhaps a similarity in overall dimensions.
As you have pointed out many times, the strong suit of a GT-FC40 light is it’s excellent color rendering… not super throw.
I do see how the M21D’s weight could be a deterrent to adding it to your collection though.
Cheers!
Sorry Caleb if my post was confusing. Yes I was referring strictly to the physical dimension: S21D is same size as the TS30S, and for me that means it’s too big & too heavy to use as my walk light. And sure GT-FC40 and SBT90.2 are two completely different-purpose LED’s. I put up with TS30S size and weight only because the SBT90.2 is a heat monster and I don’t want any host smaller than that Wurkkos.
The TS30S — cannot recommend it high enough. It’s eye opening (pun intended) and ridiculously inexpensive for what it does. I know you were kidding but allow me to add a small point: Throw of 1000m as you mentioned doesn’t mean now I could see at 1000m. Most importantly it means that at every distance closer than 1000m it’s x times brighter than say a light with 500 m throw. I use my TS30S mainly to play around, nothing useful lol, and look at things typically 100 m away, and even less, wherein the TS30S shines like a lighthouse.
For my older eyes I’ve found the true usefulness of a throw number is uh maybe around 1/3 to 1/2 of its value. For example, for my eyes 150m throw (those quad Nichia w/ TIR optics, S21D and D4V2 HERE) means that light is truly useful up to around 50m.