Seriously, @Cannga… Pardon me. I do find your posts confusing and misleading all along.
You have been editing and editing and editing and editing all your posts from Day 1 you join BLF. Pardon me again. Why don’t you get your facts and data right before posting?
Anyway, to each his own, But to me, I will only post something that is 1+1=2 that no one can dispute about….
I’m sad about this thread : BLF dying?
that where are all the experts? Why is it NO ONE correcting Cannga for his misleading post.
Lastly, I do appreciate Cannga sharing, sharing that is facts and true. But once again, too many confusing and misleading posts that I totally object.
I’m surprised at the strong emotion, over something so trivial. Very much agreed that sometimes my writing is not clear and will try to slow down and not write at the same skipping steps as my brain. But misleading? Subjective opinions always noted with “IMHO” that people disagree with yes, but misleading never. Please give specific examples that I am “misleading” - over $30 flashlights? Are you serious?
Thank you for appreciating the objective data I shared, but flashlight opinions (!) shouldn’t cause you to be angry/upset. I edit posts all the time to make them clearer, even now sorry, and if even that upsets you then maybe it’s time to stop reading this thread.
First post: @Caleb thanks for the nice comment. M21D curiously looks nearly identical to my Wurkkos TS30S, but oddly quite a bit heavier (286 gm vs 230 gm). I was looking for the perfect everyday all around walk light so this is a great light with better throw but would be too heavier too big for my use.
Second post: Yes I was referring strictly to the physical dimension: S21D is same size as the TS30S, and for me that means it’s too big & too heavy to use as my walk light. And sure GT-FC40 and SBT90.2 are two completely different-purpose LED’s. I put up with TS30S size and weight only because the SBT90.2 is a heat monster and I don’t want any host smaller than that Wurkkos.
I just edited post to add numbers from Simon of the 5500k version of this LED.
I thought that the 4500k version has better CRI, but it turns out they both have very similar Ra and R9 numbers, both are excellent R9070 LED. If anything the 5500k has lower Duv (partially explaining the magenta corona I am seeing in beamshots?).
The B35AM light left China so should be here shortly. :+1: Can’t wait to see how it compares, if it is indeed “four Nichia E21a”.
Beamshots of the 3 lights. I love all 3 lights and LEDs despite that they look differently from each other. ie They are good for different reasons, and preference is subjective so no right or wrong. Like have different wines that you enjoy.
All IMvHO - all pics with camera WB fixed at 5000k: SST40 6000k has a slight bluish spill with some green in corona. High CCT LED gives a certain subjective crispness to the scene, and that’s why I like it. GT-FC40 5500k the new light that I just bought: a surprising magenta tint. Despite of the magenta tint in the beamshot, in real life use to my eyes it doesn’t look magenta like 219b 4500k, more like a “neutral tint day-light look.” I also like this light a lot simply because it is different from the warm 4500k color: 5500k verision is (obviously) “cooler” looking, with more subjective crispness. I like variety and wouldn’t want to be without it. Simon’s measurements show this to be a R9070 LED, which is outstanding. GT-FC40 4500k beam color to my eyes is best described as dark peach (? - but really doesn’t matter) with a hint of magenta in the corona. This is my personal favorite because I prefer a warmer CCT. In actual use it looks like 219b 4500k (will post pic later).
I will repost the scenic pictures so you could correlate beam shot to scenic shots.
Hello Chicken Drumstick (there must be a story? :+1: ), followed is what I use, hope it helps. Camera always on tripod, flashlight usually resting on second tripod for the outdoor shot.
WB is most important: I always fix this at 5000k. To best of my knowledge this is similar to what most reviewers use, the range 5000 to 5500k. I personally use 5000k because IMHO this looks closest to the actual view I’m seeing with my eyes. The fixed WB also helps because it means pics I took 6 mos ago could be compared to the ones I take now for color eval.
Outdoor scenic pics: I’d test a few settings then settle when I got the exposure that looks most like real life (ie subjective). Nearly always start flashlight at 100% brightness. In this case:
For M21E, F, and Nitecore: ISO 160, speed 0.8 sec, f/3.5 (same setting for the 3 lights so I could judge their brightness)
For S21D: ISO 160, speed 1.3 sec, f/3.5 (dimmer “hotspot” so slower speed to get good exposure).
Focal length 24 mm of a 24-70 Canon zoom.
Indoor white wall beamshot: Always in complete darkness.
Exposure depends on whether I like to expo for the corona and spill or for the hotspot. Often I like to see corona and spill so hotspot sometimes is over-exposed in the middle. So WB also 5000k, then I would take oh up to around 10 shots in a row at increasing speed w/ same aperture, and choose from those the one that I like (ie subjective). In this case:
ISO 160, speed 1/1000, f/6.3, 38 mm focal length.
It’s a little OT but here is comparison of Getian FC40 4500k in Convoy M21E with two great LEDs with great CRI numbers , Nichia 519a 4500k and 219b 4500k in Convoy S21D. Note unlike previous comparison, the red bougainvillea is reproduced accurately in all 3 LEDs.
In comparison of lights with different throws and hence central brightness, I adjust exposure to make the central area looks as close to each other as possible (completely subjective). In this case the Nichia 519a has lowest throw so get expo increased more than 219b, which gets expo increased more than FC4500k.
FC40 4500 resembles 219b, but not quite the same. Peach color (FC40 4500k) versus magenta (219b 4500k) in the beamshot. This is just for fun: peach is mixture of magenta and yellow, why the FC40 4500k looks more yellow?
I would like to add that for whatever reason my Nichia 519a 4500k measures much lower CCT than spec. The latest round of measurement showed CCT of just around 3900k with the Opple (which correlates with specs very well when used to measure other LED’s).
Meaning if true the above comparison is not exactly of 519a at 4500k. It’s a 3900k LED which would look warmer.
Not sure at all but I vaguely recall reading somewhere that some other owners have seen this much-lower-than-spec CCT with 519a?? Anyone please correct me as needed.
Thanks Argo & stephenk. I likely will buy another 519a light, hopefully in a more throwy host than S21D; perhaps this time will go for the 5000k and hope it lands at 4500
Some numbers from Simon posted in Convoy’s thread - a remarkable set set of specs :
Tc=4454K
Duv= - 0.00503
x=0.3603,y=0.3531
Ra=98,R9=99, R12=77
I am getting about - 0.0050 for Duv using Opple Pro. Does it resemble somewhat any other LED? I don’t know yet until I could get some beam shots. Very exciting.
Measurement so far shows output of B35AM about half of FC40 4500k and actually even less than S21D 519a, but what’s there is a small, bright hotspot (and a lot less spill vs FC40 in same host). BTW my “integrating sphere” for measuring btw is a guest bathroom with a very large mirror (I think it favors lights with floody beams); sorry that’s all I could do. The numbers have been “close enough” though.
I haven’t set up for throw measurement yet but it would be interesting to see what the throw is for this light.
Size vs throw from another thread: S21D with 519a versus S21D with 219b.
519a has higher output (about 6-10% in my S21D using my amateur level method so take with a grain of salt pls) but using same optic in same host the smaller 219b has better throw.
Please note “Sofirn IF25a 10° Clear” refers to the Sofirn optic that fits in S21D, NOT the Sofirn light.
sorry, and if even that upsets you then maybe it’s time to stop reading this thread.
