The only thing that moves is the led on top, well the whole board the led is connected to. It has thermal paste under it i believe. The other side where the spring is, that whole part is snugly fitted. Does not move, i couldn’t figure out how to take that bit apart, how would i take that bit apart for future reference.
The two S2+ i bought were from the official Convoy store from Simon but with the newer firmware that has 12 modes i think. I wanted it for the bike mode so i can use them for my bike.
Will give this a go when i get home.
I have this problem with my other working s2+ i had to use the original flat glass/plastic lens under the new striped lens to make it all snug otherwise it was lose in their. Can i buy a spacer to take up that extra space?
Basically i just put the new striped lens on top of the original flat lens then screw the pill back in. It works but probably has less light coming through because of both lens’.
describes some previous problems with ground connections on Convoy’s lights, and shows a ground wire as one workaround.
Looks like they’re still wrestling with the problem, and not doing well.
Here’s my recommendation, as I posted in that earlier thread at Help - advice for Convoy red S2+ driver ground - #7 by hank
(a link there points to more discussion of this elsewhere, too)
Since it appears Convoy applied those solder blobs, well, I’d complain if I got them like that.
It’s a known problem — the usual retaining ring won’t fit down over extra 7315 chips on the spring side of the board.
Convoy needs to find someone with a laser cutter or a good file, and notch those retaining rings so they fit around the chips.
That gives an excellent, reliable ground.
Will try this once at home.
Will also double check the body is screwed on correctly and its not the wrong way round with the anodized end.
To take that apart, you would have to desolder the driver from the pill.
You can’t check it by looking.
Check it by using your DMM on the continuity setting.
If you don’t have a DMM yet (you need one for working with li-ions, anyhow)
do it by getting a 3v or more battery in a carrier
( a li-ion, need not be fully charged, or three AAAs, or anything comparable — even an almost-dead 9v cell out of your smoke alarms will work for this)
- and take the two wires. Put the positive end on the spring.
TAP the negative wire to the pill. If that lights the LED, that’s good.
If tapping the negative wire to the pill does not light the LED, then tap the negative wire to the ground ring of the driver and to the solder blobs.
If that lights the LED, then the driver itself is OK and the driver is not connecting to the pill.
Press and wiggle the spring/driver.
You’re looking for any break in the continuity.
You’re trying to figure out what connects when you barely have the pill screwed in, and the driver pushed sideways, but disconnects when the pill is screwed in and there’s some pressure on the driver spring.
Guy can’t thank you enough for the valuable lessons on this thread. Lots of great tips.
I feel like a plonker as the body was screwed in the wrong way round. Lol it works fine with it being the right way round.
Nonetheless the information in this topic is brilliant and will surely help lots of people diagnose problems.
I need help with a different matter related to the s2+ but it’s more information required then a problem. I think it would be best starting a new topic for that.
Cheers again to you all.
All of us that mod have felt that at some point or another, rest assured.
<—- native Texan, not sure what the heck a “plonker” is, but get the gist of it. 
Foolish or inept lol