Convoy S2+ Desert Tan Available Now!

sorry, I don’t know how to properly post images.

long time lurker, first time poster…… sorry if this is incoherent, i’ve had a few….
I just wanted to share what I’ve learned over the last few months.

http://postimg.org/image/z8f98uu7t/

I’m surprised to hear others have had issues withe the XP-L HI, smooth reflector S6/S2 etc., combination. I’m very happy with it. The only thing I didn’t like, that doesn’t show up in the picture, is the brownish center spot that you will only see when shining on a white wall. It disappears outdoors.
Here’s an S6 satin black 120mm long S6 host I got from MTN in fall of 2015. XP-L HI V2 3C, smooth reflector, FET with gupppy. Shot down my hallway…
It slightly out-throws my M1 with an XP-L HD V6 3D running on a 4.18A QLite, but with a much smaller hotspot and fllood than the M1. I prefer it over the M1; smaller host.

http://postimg.org/image/91p8k7ow5/

It seems there are 2 versions of the S6 out there, a 115mm L version and a 120mm version. The will 120mm version will take any cell I throw at at it. I have a 115mm version host and haven’t touched it yet.

here’s my very new, recent build of the golden brown/tan version of the “s6”, also known as the KSH-1224. Looks slightly darker in person, but more tan under a flash. I was very exited about this, and I’m really looking forward to a tan s2+.

http://postimg.org/image/tdofbdfab/
http://postimg.org/image/4h7p0sib1/

as you can see, it “lego’s” with the S6 from MTN.

http://postimg.org/image/b9b2h4a57/
http://postimg.org/image/hpe5um1vv/

with the S2+, my go-to is the 40-45 optic available here…
http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-cree-xml-led-optic-45-degrees-p-472.html
http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/cree-led-optics-lens/
I think they are the same…

The 60 degree optic is cool too, but only for very close up illumination. works well for it’s intended purpose, but not much distance.

I really like the…. http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-cree-xml-led-optic-10-degrees-p-474.html
…optic in the S2, if you’re looking for something small and throwy, but I would choose, the S6, if you really want more throw. The S2 is a flooder plain and simple. If you want a decent throw with the S2, a 10 degree optic is the ticket. The hotspot is a bit smaller and provides more throw than the S2 SMO reflector, with a larger/smoother, more even spill.
anyone want some S2+ reflectors? I’m considering throwing them in the trash……

http://postimg.org/image/inrwb5gxl/

I hope my info helped…

Good post. FWIW the S6 is known by many other names as well, but I wasn’t aware of the colored one. When you use those optics, do you put glass in front of them or just the optic?

I’m also in VA and I could put the reflectors to use. I’ll drop you a PM.

EDIT: and welcome to BLF :wink:

Sure you would. Short reflector/long pill, long reflector/short pill. The difference in overall length between the two setups is like half the thickness of a Noctigon. The end of the tube doesn’t have to contact the pill. Just lengthen the head and it would be able to use either combination and more than likely no spring adjustment would be needed. I’m not sure I know what your talking about on the triple with no spacer 18350 pocket rocket. That sounds like a meltdown in your hand in 2.2 sec setup… the triple requires a heatsink to protect the LED’s so if you had a custom copper pill/heatsink made for the 3XP Noctigon to set it up that way then the 18350 tube could be like half the length it is now to make up for the lost length of the spacer, but I don’t think it would have enough mass there to make it very potent. 3-4amp qlite Max.

Not exactly scientific, but with the head of a stock S2+ backed off ~1mm and using a 30q cell the light changes modes when smacked against the hand. Prior to backing it off it wouldn’t change modes.

As a comparison a stock Convoy C8 with a 30q changes modes when smacked against the palm with a similar amount of force, with all the threads tight.

Interesting.
Which battery are you using in your S6? Any mods to increase current, like bypassed springs? Would you happen to know how many amps it’s doing?

Yep, that’s about it. Meltdown in 2.2 sec. :smiley: Not practical at all! But some people love that stuff. Hand warmer for people in Antarctica? I’m actually not into high power triples myself.

That sounds like a spring length/insufficient pressure for contact issue?

Welcome to BLF and thanks for your very informative first post. I also wasn’t aware of this tan S6 clone host and I’m excited now to get one (or 3)

Where can the 115mm S6 be purchased?

Thanks for all the info about these optics.

That is what I was thinking. Quite a lot of force was needed to make the modes change and I suspect most people wouldn’t experience this in regular use, but if they were to it seems easy enough to fix.

Maybe I missed something, why would you have the head backed off 1mm?

We were talking about fitting the S2 reflector. It can fit but the head would screw down 1mm less (unless you sand a bit off the body threads).

Huh? How is that creating extra length inside the tube?

With the longer reflector there will be a gap between the body and head, but only because the pill will be lower in the head.

The top of the body will still stop against the bottom of the pill, the same as it does in a stock light, therefore the length of the battery compartment would still be the same as a stock light, (not longer as in mapache’s test of backing off the head in a stock light)

With the longer reflector there will be a gap visible on the outside of the light, however no additional length is created on the inside, because the top of the body still butts up against the pill.

Maybe I’m not understanding correctly? …

By not fully tightening the head we create the extra length inside the tube :slight_smile:

Yes in a stock light, but we’re talking about having the longer S2 reflector/short pill in an S2+

How does that add length inside the tube??

In this configuration the is a gap visible on the outside of the light, but inside the top of the body butts up against the bottom of the pill. No extra length is added inside the tube.

It may even be shorter length inside if the top of the tube doesn’t actually butt up against the pill in stock configuration.

What we need is a longer head and shorter battery tube by just like the old S2, this way a triple and both short & long reflector can be fitted… It doesn’t even need a complete design change, and doesn’t affect battery room length by too much.

Installing the longer S2 reflector/short pill in an S2+ does not add length to the inside of the battery compartment.

I just took the long reflector/short pill out of my S6 and installed them in my S2+ (stock driver)

With a 30q flat top battery I can pound/smack the tail hard against a butcher block and there is no mode changing.

Also I can tell when screwing it down the 30q battery is VERY tight inside.

I placed a button top 3500mAh Sanyo/Panasonic GA protected cell in the tube and pressed down on it to fully compress the switch spring and looking at the space that was available I wouldn’t even try putting the head back on for fear of squashing the button top, or damaging driver components on the board.

An unprotected GA (raised flat top) also works fine and is the cell I would use for this with the stock driver.

As far as the gap that is visible between the body and head. I can slightly see some of the o-ring. But the 1mm thick lens from KD will fix that and make it perfect for me.

As mentioned above it may be possible for Simon to lengthen the S2+ head by 1mm and still have it work with both the stock pill and the S2/S6 long reflector/short pill. The reason for backing the head off 1mm was to simulate how well a longer head might work with the stock S2+ pill/reflector.

Instead of coming up with new stuff, he probably needs to focus on getting stuff shipped to people along with his resellers and making things right where he’s messed up.

Seconding this. Simon seems to have enough irons in the fire already, and as much as I appreciate seeing things like new S2+ colors or the upgrade to a translucent gasket piece, this thread is going way off track. We’re worried about shaving a mm here or adding a mm here, all leading towards making fundamental design changes requiring rework at the machining level, and I’d hate to see Simon get way off track by focusing on stuff like that.

Simon, if you’re reading this, we ask for a lot around here and we really do appreciate what you deliver, but please don’t put yourself in a bind trying to meet all our requests. Just build good light and we’ll buy them :slight_smile:

Who else is excited about a tan Convoy! I know I am!

(Trying to get this thread back on track… :wink: )