I didn’t realize that the short pill was that short.
Am I right in thinking that if the tan and future S2+ lights were produced with a ~1mm longer head and ~1mm longer pill that the long pill/short reflector and short pill/long reflector could then be swapped between the S2 and S2+?
Yeah I’ve used them in the S2+ and also A6. Their better than the short reflector with a dedome XML2 or XPL HI but the TIR can’t compete with the deep SMO for throw.
2. They dont work well with XP emiters. Led centering is an issue. They are geared towards XM emitters.
If simon can change the S2+ to accommodate the S2 pill + reflector - you have an absolute winning combination.
One can then really build whatever setup is required,long reflector, shallow reflector, OP or SMO etc. All combinations are possible.
And, one also then has the option to run the 18350 tube with the S2 reflector setup - awesome. One will just have to make sure the 18350 is not accessively compressed. Might have to think about fitting a shorter spring on the driver side or maybe a brass button.
So for an S2+ with an XPL HI the TIR optic is better than any reflector currently available that fits an S2+ (because the deep SMO reflector does not really fit the S2+)
I like this idea, it appears it wouldn’t take much effort to have the deep S2 SMO reflector work in an S2+
—
In my red S2+ the stock front o ring is already only 1mm thick, and the glass is 1.5mm thick.
It appears the deep reflector would fit with no other modifications if we simply removed the o ring entirely? I looked but couldn’t find a thinner 21mm dia. glass, flashlightlens.com has a 0.95mm but it’s 22.61 dia. (found thinner lens - see post below)
(Running without an o ring isn’t a desirable option but still an option nonetheless)
When I said better I meant it produces a tighter, smoother, more intense spot than the short op reflector. The problem is it does make the tint shift to the point that I’d use the reflector instead of the tir.
I wonder this myself. I think because of the metal switch button people want it. IMO the metal switch button just looks cool but the function isn’t as good as a normal rubber boot. Imo the S8 is the best quality most refined of the S series lights. Better threads and better fit and finish. Yea the crenulations look terrible but cut them off and it’s Nice. Heck cut off the crenulations, omit the fins, put on a decent deep carry titanium clip, slap a desert tan finish on there and call it a S1.0.
Swapping the lens from the stock 1.5mm thick to the KD 1.0mm would reduce the gap down to 1.03mm (.040”)
I unscrewed the head on my S2+ to a .040”/1.03mm gap and it is hardly noticable, I could easily live with that, in fact it exactly matches the grooves above and below the knurled portion of the head (those grooves are exactly .040”) and actually makes the light look better IMO.
With gap:
—
Without gap:
—
Thanks for checking and measuring this. With the thinner lens it appears the S2 deep SMO reflector will work in the S2+ with no further modification, at least for me since I don’t mind the .040” gap.
Now I have a game plan. Once I receive the parts I’ll try them in my S2+ to confirm. If everything works out I’ll build my Desert Tan S2+ with XPL HI in the S2 deep SMO reflector, FET + 7135 w/guppydrv DUAL.
Looking more closely I see at least one benefit of the S2+, the S2 does not have the scalloped cutouts on the tailcap for the switch, this is also my main complaint about my favorite Convoy tube light, the S6.
I agree about the switch, I actually prefer the tactile feel of a rubber boot over the smooth metal. I’m also beginning to change my opinion on the S8 after learning more from these posts. Also I really like the block pattern knurling on the S8.
I have 2 belt sanders and a disc sander so I can easily flatten the bezel, I could probably also smooth the fins all around to make them the same diameter as the body tube, then have it Cerakoted FDE (although the fins may be too close together for a proper Cerakote in between them) Even if I leave it black, making a customized S8 like this is something I’ll eventually need to try just for kicks.
I still really like the S6 the best. I just think the fully knurled design has a more classy look, and I think it would look great in a military tan color. I’m looking into getting one Cerakoted in FDE to build the same as the S2+ I described above.
So here’s an idea, take the more refined S8 body put on S6 knurling, make an S6 head to fit and match. Then you have the preferred more ergonomic scalloped cap, better threads, pocket clip and nice classy look and feel of the S6. haha, I’m just daydreaming… I’ll try to stay on topic from here on out.
But then you no longer have the option of using the current short S2+ reflector.
If you do as mapache suggested, a new S2+ head which is ~1mm longer and ~1mm longer pill then that allows more options.
Use the current short S2+ reflector with new 1mm longer pill. Floody, for people who want the light for up close indoor work.
Use the current deep S2 reflector with current short pill. More throw.
And while you at it extend the internal threads in the new head.
3) Do a triple TIR without a spacer. Just screw the pill in deeper and add a long spring. Perhaps it could even save enough space to do an triple TIR 18650 S2+ shortie using the 18350 tube. Hot little pocket rocket.