Thanks Barkuti for your reply.
I saw your message about 10 days ago when you posted it, I just didn’t know exactly what to ask next, even though I felt like there is something that I still don’t understand. So I let the time pass, while trying to figureout whats that thing which still makes me confused.
First, since I’m still new to all this, I didn’t knew what CRI means. So I googled it and watched some YoutTube clips. If I understood correctly, CRI represent how good specific led diode can show the difference between different colors (they used 8 colors in some youtube examples). So in theory, CRI 100 is a perfect one. In other words, higher the CRI, better the led diode is. Correct?
I see that you said for XM-L2 it is CRI80+. Can’t that CRI value be more specific? For SST-20 you said its CRI95. From what I understand a diode with CRI95 should be good at showing the difference between colors, right?
2nd question: You suggested using ‘warm’ high CRI emitter (3000K or 2700K/4000K). When I was looking at the sales page of Convoy S2+ with XM-L2 emitter I saw that Convoy is offering couple different eminter bins to choose from:
XML2 U2-1A 6500-7000K
XML2 T6-3B 5000-5200K
XML2 T6-4C 4300-4500K
XML2 T5-5B 4000-4200K
XML2 T4-7A 3000-3200K
^ (btw whats the difference between ‘bins’ and ‘tints’ terms?)
Since there are photos attached at the same sales page, I decided that I most like how 5000-5200K appears (or ‘neutral light’). Maybe ‘4300-4500K’ (which should be ‘neutral-warm light) could be ’ok’, though its starts looking yellowish compared to 5000-5200K. But, anyway, what confused me is that you’re suggested ‘warm high CRI emitter’ of 3000K (or 2700K/4000K). Will that makes the light even more yellowish? Why not higher ‘K’ value (like the one for ‘neutral white’ 5000-5200K)? Does SST even have emitters ‘that high’?
Also, while I was trying to figureout why you suggested lower ‘K’ value, I thought maybe because it will not waste battery fast (since the light wont be as bright compared to 5000-5200K). Correct?
To make myself even more confused, couple of days ago it was some rainy weather in my area. I was walking the street after the rain and I come under those high (15-20 meters above the ground) street light. They were dropping yellow light (like the ones for ‘foggy’ weather), and the light was somehow ‘nice’ to look at. But then again, who knows how powerfull are those street lights (and probably not even using LED, but probably some ‘older’ technology). So I was like ‘huh’.
Another thing to mantion is… I saw someone using those foggy yellowish flashlight at flea market, and…they kinda looked like… (tooo dimmed), because everywhere around were those guys with high (neutral-white or cool-white) flashlight, and when their flashlight overlap the yellowish light from other people, you just see the difference and after the ‘high light’ guys move away, and you stay starring at that yellowish light, you kinda feel like you are left in the dark, if you understand what I mean.
Third question (this is a st*pid one): If 7135*8 and SST-40 are the drivers. What is biscotti? A firmware? Or ‘software’ ? You said Simon is working on biscotti for new drivers, so I guess you were suggesting I could pick SST-40 driver and ask simmon that it comes with biscotti? I hope I understood this well…
Fourth question (probably another st*pid one): In one of your previous posts, you said that SST-40 linear drivers have temperature control. I’m guessing its for protecting the battery from overheating? What if… temperature control fails? I know that I’m paranoid but… ofc I don’t want things to explode while in my hands. (though you said the lamp wont be warm if I use it at 30% (middle range)). I Guess if I use it at 100% with 5A current it will make everything supper bright and at the same time supper hot very fast?
Another thing that I read somewhere (someone posted it, maybe it was from amazon sales page, I really don’t remember) is that the lamp that he bought with dimming feature (which is what software do when your battery starts to drop voltage, I guess?) …he said ‘after a month dimming stopped working’. How that can be possible? And is the percentage of such ‘failures’ pretty high or low, in your oppinion? Don’t want to get in situation where I would buy a lamp and then because of software or (bad component) I’m left in the dark.
btw. does that SST-40 driver has an option to shut down the flashlight if the voltage drops at…lets say 2.9v or 2.8v ?
Another question: When it comes to emitter bins, there are tons of them, for instance: U2-1A, T6-3B, T6-4C, T5-5B, T4-7A. In this topic: Warmest tint for each bin there was an image posted. This one:
When I look at that image I can find 3B (from T6-3B emmiter), but what does T6 represent? (what are those U2, T6, T5, T4 ?) What are they?
2 offtopic requests/questions:
1. can you post (image or YT clip) how that flashlight from your nephew looks like? Or better, if you have that High CRI95+ SST-20 with SST-40 driver, can you please post picture/clip so I can see how that looks like?
2. You suggested Li-Ion rechareable 3000mAh battery. Which model (and brand, of those 5 major ones) should I buy? And is it correct to take protected one over ‘unprotected one’? I kinda want to secure myself as much as I can. (I’m guessing order from nkon.nl should be a good choice to buy from?)
Thanks in advance for your answer and sorry for this flood of questions.
EDIT:
I just checked nkon.nl site and (ofc) I got one more extra question: if SST-40 can take 5A, is buying a battery with 6.7A discarge current enough for that driver?
I mean this one: Panasonic NCR18650B 3350mAh - 6.7A
Also, what you think about these two:
Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh - 15A
Samsung INR18650-35E 3450mAh - 10A
^ among reviews at nkon.nl site for those batteries, someone mantioned that he is a BLF member and that he bought 300 pcs already and is happy with it. So, I’m guessing they are good. Though all unprotected one. (not sure if ‘unprotected’ is what I want in my hands)
EDIT 2:
Just checked this one: LG INR18650-M36 3600mAh - 5A and in the description it sais:
And when I sort the search (at nkon website) by those who has ‘protection’ I get results with not a single one major brand (of those 5 major ones) among them. Well… fck. 