Convoy S2+ new firmware (biscotti) memory mode jammed

Yes, the issues are pretty random. It depends on the state some individual bits of RAM decay to when power is removed. Basically, the batch the driver is from seems to determine the odds of having a problem, but it is not a certainty. Issues didn’t show up in any pre-production drivers, but only a few were actually tested.

Unfortunately, that wasn’t the only issue. For example, the production drivers were a different design from a different manufacturer, so the firmware was calibrated for the wrong hardware.

Thank you for this diagram, it helped me…

hello, im new here.

just receiving my 2 convoy S2+ ordered in mid April ( one with SST20 & one with Nichia) and unfortunately i got the same problem (all of them). i cannot turn off the memory mode. this is annoying.

i already try to contact simon the seller, and i still wait for his reply.

I presume they have Biscotti drivers? (My SST20 doesn’t) I have some that do. It’s kind of crazy you can buy one on Bangood with no Biscotti chart or explination and it doesn’t come with an owners manual either. . Konvoi Aluminiumlegierung Taschenlampe 18650 Batterie LED Camping Licht Jagd Emergen Sale - Banggood Deutschland-arrival notice-arrival notice I thought I had trouble with memory mode once, but it was operator error. I was clicking after the second “buzz” instead of during it.

Yes biscotti drivers, I also got it with no manual, just following the item description on aliexpress shop.

I already try combination on the buzz, or after the buzz, still not working.

Also on the bike flasher I get 2 pulse per second, from what I read in this thread, it sign that I get first batch driver.

I bought 3 of these SST20 S2+ with biscotti, just because they were so good VFM; I have only powered one up so far and on a slightly different note to this thread and in the absence of finding the information anywhere else - I went into programming mode to change the mode spacing, which worked without error. Unfortunately I programmed the wrong mode in error, so went back into programming mode and changed the mode again; fortunately I got it right this time as I can no longer get into programming mode to change anything - is this a common failure mode and is there anything that can be done to fix it, or is it a good excuse to try and learn processes for reflashing I if one of my batch has failed this way, are my other 2 likely to go the same way?

I’m not concerned about the apparent failure, as it’s failed stuck in a mode I want and they were dirt cheap anyway and I can use them as triple hosts, I was just curious if it’s recoverable or if I’d need to reflash the MCU/replace driver to restore full functionality.

hello everyone, even though i have boungt the new convoy c8 plus, my old convoy c8 clear suffers from the problem of not be able to change mode. i use the 10 times tap but the only thing that happens is that sometimes it changes the power of the light 100% or something like 30%. Is there somethong i can do to fix this beautiful thrower? i don’t hve acces to programming tools and stuff. Thank you in advance.

I don’t think there is any solution other than

- try reflash the firmware (requires programming tools)

  • replace the driver (requires new driver, soldering iron)

Hi everyone,
does biscotti driver come with any thermal control? (Convoy S2+ SST-20 8*7135)

No.

Thanks. Can be used as hand warmer on max. :slight_smile:

Concerning the above Biscotti instructions crib sheet, with mode memory on it reads “enter into next mode”. Seriously? The dreaded next mode memory? Wouldn't it make a lot more sense if it were “enter into current/last used mode”?

Simon announced availability of SST40 drivers with Biscotti “coming soon”, by the way.

Hi Barkuti,

When I have memory mode on for my Convoy Biscotti lights it always comes back in the last mode it was on before it turned off.

I would agree that if it came back on in the next mode it would be annoying, but it does not appear to work that way thankfully.

I’m trying to decide which flashlight I should buy, so last couple of days I’m reading tons of reviews about two specific flashlights for EDC. One possible pick is Convoy S2+ (with orange peel, for flood). So I’m reading what ppl are saying trying to find out the bad things about flashlights I have in my focus.

So, about this firmware issue… I have a question:

I own a MiniPro TL866A programmer. It came with tons of adapters, so I guess the ‘refleshing’ the ‘new’ firmware (if I pick convoy S2+ and get a bad firmware) would be possible with MiniPro TL866A ?
What kind of package is the IC that holds the firmware? And where to find the latest firmware for ‘refleshing’?

You also mantioned ‘gchart’s Babka’. I guess thats another firmware developer for S2+? Where to find his firmware and is it better they better? (I’m gessing…. at github?)

Another (probably kinda) offtopic question: I want a flashlight with orange peel reflector, but I’ve noticed thats S2+ with orange peel reflector comes with 2 group modes, not like others with ‘smooth reflector’ which comes with 12 group modes. Can I get an S2+ with orange peel and latest (bug free) 12 group modes?

Thanks for your answer!

twist3r, Simon the manager from the Convoy store will readily change whatever smooth reflector in your S2+ order to orange peel with ease. He in fact can customize whatever order by ordering first the base flashlight and selecting “other payment methods” (you may need to use the AliExpress application, add to the cart then proceed to see the other payment methods option), then postponing the payment. That way you can message him with whatever custom changes required, and he will later adjust the final price for you to pay. You can also tell him that you're a BLF user, and for it he will make you a discount if you will. :-)

Wed, 02/05/2020 - 05:43

If ordering direct from the official Convoy AliExpress store, you can send a message to Simon (the owner of Convoy), to configure what you need.
So you could ask him to get you a Convoy S2+ with XM-L2 with OP reflector (this is the default anyway), then you could specify Biscotti (12 group modes) with 7135x3 if that’s your preferred configuration.

Unfortunately regarding the “buggy” thing, I’m not very certain what causes that to happen, I have had it happen on some people who asked me to check their flashlights (getting stuck). I have also tried changing the buggy Biscotti driver on a Convoy C8+ to a new (not-yet-buggy) Biscotti driver, as the driver board on Convoy C8+ requires minimal soldering only (I’m very poor at soldering or maybe I don’t have a good soldering iron… — I have not been able to unsolder a 7135x8 driver from a Convoy S2+ head “pill” after several tries, for instance…).

Thanks for your reply Barkuti. Currently I’m gathering so much information that I think its better if I slow down a bit, cause my brain is getting stuck like that biscotti memory mode. :slight_smile:

I’m new here, and I’m trying not to bother too many people. Still, I have to ask questions because I’m about to order my first ‘smart’ flashlight. What I would like is a flashligth with flood light and with that kind of light that can ‘flood’ the area in front of me (from my feet up to 3-5m, max 10m away without ugly hotsopt light). If it can ‘throw’ light in the distance, thats a plus. Also I was trying to pick 7135x3 because I wanted the flashlight not to get hot too fast and the battery to last longer, but I wasn’t thinking that 7135x3 would give less lumens compared to 7135x8. Can someone tell me if I’m correct:

If Cree XML2 gives… 1040lm and I pick 7135x8 but use it at 10% mode, that will give…~ 104lm and the flashlight wont get hot too fast and battery will last longer, with light enought to clearly see whats in front of me, without hotspot light (if I pick orange peel)?

I’m also thinking if I should order 5 extra different led lens here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1577614278.html
…and use 60 degree one. Will that ‘improve’ the flood and remove hotspot?

Can someone help, please? (I’m sorry for making an offtopic post here)

Thanks!

EDIT:
d_t_a thanks for your reply too. I will see if I can contact Simon once I finally decide what I really want. Isn’t he a member here, maybe?

One extra question (probably st*pid one but I have to ask): if I pick 7135x8 …I can still order later 7135x3 and switch it? Or…not?

I edited my last message and reworded my last sentence in it, there you have it.

When you say you want ‘flood’ without ugly hotspot, and if it can throw in the distance that's a plus, you seem to be asking for a zoom flashlight. Zoom flashlights, with aspheric lens, lose some amount of out the front light when in flood mode (with the lens closest to the emitter), and as you “zoom out” the lens gets farther away from the emitter resulting in a lesser extraction of emitter light but tighter hotspot. But let's avoid being dramatic with the emitter light extraction thing, zoomie flashlights produce excellent and uniform “blankets of light”, being very adaptable (I often every day carry -EDC- one of them). The thread Zooming Model List (2018 Updated) Tell us about your newest zoomie! is a better place to get information on these matters.

A TIR lens will net you a nice blanket of light for close up illumination, with smaller angles being more throwy. I often use an S2+ clone with a 30° TIR lens for close up work (tip: use BLF coupon at FastTech).

Orange peel reflectors give better beam profiles than smooth ones, namely concerning seamless transitions from hotspot to corona and spill (without rings or other possible artifacts even with multi-die emitters). You will still have a hotspot, though.

Last question is a yes, that is a driver swap. If never done you'll need to get skilled on making very flat wire solder joints on emitter MCPCBs, this is because reflectors often sit quite close to them and you don't want to cause electrical shorts (get and use some “kapton” tape just in case).

Thanks Barkuti for your reply.

The reason why I said that if the flashlight ‘can throw in the distance that’s a plus’, is only to make it clear that I want a flood (orange peel reflector type of) flashlight. Ofcorse every flashlirght throw light, but those with smooth reflector can throw further. I mostly need flashlight that will light up the area around me (in front of me) and 3-5 meters ahead, with 10 meters being max that I’m interested in. Everything ahead of that is a ‘plus’ (thats why I said what I said, not because I really need it).

Now, the next information is not important, but I want to explain for what ‘situation’ I would mostly use this kind of flashlight: For ‘flea market’. At the ones in my area, sellers comming before sunrise (which means its still dark or ‘night’), and lots of them already started selling their staff. So I need a flashlight for that kind of situation. To light up the area in front of me (up to 3-5 meters, to 10m being max). Thats what I’m interested in. So I can see what the sellers are offering, and also without being destracted by a hotspot. For that, since I’m an newbie, I would guess 50lm (or 150lm) would be enough to clearly see whats in front of me, and at the same time not waste much battery and not make the flashlight ‘hot’. I guess 40% mode or 30% (of an 7135x3 6T-3B XML2 )would be good for that.

I also read at CPF topic created by Phlogiston (he is a member here as well, but I don’t see that he made the same thread), about Convoy Lights: Option Comparison Tables and Images. I’m not sure that I’m alowed to post links to external sites, so I will not do that but simple google search will find it as a top 1 result. In his topic he posted a tables where he compared some 7135x3 with activated modes like 5–40–100% and he was getting “21 lm —160 lm — 370 lm” for Convoy S2+ Red XML2 T6-3B LED 7135*3 driver. The issue here for me is that I’m a newbie, so I don’t know exactly how many lumens actually looks like in the real life. Is it ~25 enough, maybe 40-50lm ? Or maybe 160lm for what I need? (that flea market ‘thing’).

As for soldering (driver swap), well… I’m not good at soldering yet, though I would like to think that I own an ‘ok’ soldering iron (HAKKO FX-888D). Skill is what I lack. :frowning:
Since you mantioned ‘kapton tape’ I guess that maybe desoldering requires ‘hot air blower’ instead of solder iron?

Again, thanks for your reply and I apologise for making another offtopic post.

EDIT:
I read more and I’m kinda getting close (at least I want to believe) to what I might decide to ask Simon to make for me for S2+ (if he wants):

Color: Desert tan (Sand)
Driver: 7135*3
Emitter: XML2
Emitter BIN: T6-3B
Light temperature: 5000-5200K
Reflector: Orange peel
Switch Type: metallic clicky switch (‘black metallic clicky’)
Mode memory: Yes

firmware: ?
(I need to decide if I want new firmware depending how much lumens in real life at 5-10% and 30-35-40% an 7135x3 Driver can produce. Old firmware had 2 group modes with 5-40-100% (custom mode was possible with 5-30-100), while new firmware gives modes with 1-10-35-100 (group #10). So I have to think/decide about what is the actual difference between 5-10% and 30-35-40% when in comes to light that I would get in front of me or 3-5 meters away)

modes: ?
(modes depend if I will go with old default/custom firware or with new firmware which has 12 mode groups (#10 being the one I’m interested in)

^ those are my thoughts for now. It’s hard to decide but I hope that I’m close to narrow down my final pick.

If you guys have any thoughts/suggestions I’ll be happy to read it. Thanks!

twist3r, I mentioned kapton tape because, when replacing a driver, you will need to desolder the old driver wires from the emitter's MCPCB, leaving the MCPCB pads more or less clean from solder. You will then solder the new driver wires to the MCPCB pads making sure they are remain pretty flat, without bulges. If after this operation you place the reflector over the centering ring/gasket and it touches the solder joints on the pads, you know that needs a fix. If it passes the test, place a couple small pieces of kapton tape over the solder joints to be sure it'll remain short-circuit safe, it's for insulation purposes. Other tapes may also work, but kapton is neat and heat resistant.

If I were you, for a flea market before sunrise, I would select a high CRI emitter of low to moderate temperature (2700K - 4000K). This is just an opinion, of course, but for close up work I prefer light quality. Also, lower emitter tempeatures will respect more your night vision.

If you go with a 3x 7135 driver you'll end up using it in high most of the time. The flashlight won't get hot with such power. You could get an 8x 7135 driver and use it in some medium mode, but it won't be as energy efficient. I don't really like 7135 drivers because of PWM in medium and lower modes, the efficiency advantage of the lower modes gets negated by PWM (this translates into slightly less output); and while most people don't complain PWM can be disturbing to some. For a 7135 driver, I would get one with 4x 7135s and always use it in high; the emitter would get 1.4 A (without PWM), the flashlight wouldn't get too, and you would get a nice deal of out the front light (300 - 500+ lumens depending on emitter and reflector/lens type).

Personally I would go with some (CRI95+ 2700K or 4000K) SST-20 emitter, and one of the newer ∅17mm 4-mode SST-40 linear drivers with temperature control (very nice medium mode at nearly 1.5 A effective, and you have the extra power of a high mode on demand). Simon said he is working on Biscotti for the newer drivers, by the way. The reflector won't be so neat at very close distances, or you may like it. In any case replacing the reflector/lens is easy so grab at least a 25° TIR, I'm sure Simon can ship you some additional lenses with your flashlight for a few extra bucks. Since you don't know which reflector or lens type will fit you best yet, you'll thank this later.

P.S.: I find myself comfortable using my S2+ clone in medium mode (0.9 - 1 A) with a 30° TIR, lighting 3 - 4 meters in front of me.