I asked to put in 1 each (5 types) -- strip lens, 10-degree, 25-degree, 45-degree, 60-degree, which Simon gladly obliged.
I have some questions. The items didn't come labeled, so I have to match the pictures on the above Convoy Store to find out which is which. The strip lens is easy to identify since it looks different. The 10-degree (which comes as "smooth") and 25-degree (smaller) are also quite easy to distinguish.
But I'm not sure which is the 45-degree and which is the 60-degree, as they seem to look similar.
Another thing, they 4 lens (except the strip lens) comes with a white plastic receptacle/holder. Does this receptacle/holder have a use or are they to be removed when placed in the Convoy S2+? (they won't fit the Convoy S2+ head with the receptable on). Also, I'm having dfficulty trying to remove the lens from the white receptacle (I'm afraid I may damage it if I use a metal scalpel to pry it out).. maybe there's a latch that should do the trick? (pardon my ignorance...)
If you get the mounting shoe, it’ll work wonders to keep the chip centered in the TIR, and give the right amount of spacing, vs just sitting the lens atop the LED/mcpcb. But, it’s a tight tight tight fit, and you’d need to shove it down in there hard, first, then get the pill screwed in there most of the way, make sure the LED fits into the square hole, then snug up everything. The little “ears” that grab onto the lens might need to be shaved on the outside just a tad, because it’s mainly those little ears that grab onto the threads when pushing it down the hole.
The shoe will fit narrower-angle TIRs up to about 60°, where they’re more cone-shaped in back, vs 90s and 120s where they’re more bowl-shaped.
Anyway, you can just drop in the TIR without the shoe, it’ll go in with zero resistance, then you just gotta worry about getting the LED centered. You might need a centering ring, or you might not. XMs (5050s) will work great, but XPs (3535s) will swim around in it, might not be centered, and you might get a slightly lopsided beam. Dunno for sure, as I only used XM-sized LEDs.
Having liked this frosted 7070 footprint 30° 5-pack from FastTech inside S2+ hosts I recently bought a truckload of 5° and 10° lenses from AliExpress sellers to “somehow” make use of 'em. A 10-pack of 10° lenses which wasn't new and a 30-pack of 5° lenses. Part of the reason I bought so many was due to a observed large variation in ceiling bounce lux output from the 7070 30° FastTech lenses when placed inside S2+s (one of the lenses came out on top with 10+% over the worst but the remaining four where within 7%), so I though about binning the packs (I was a little bit high when I took such @#$% decision lmao). Ceilingbouncing figures ranged from 59 to 66 luces.
When I received the 10-pack I binned them but besides a second-hand product I also observed adequate consistency. I felt a little less output versus reflector, with observed ceilingbouncings at ≈51 luces.
At a later date the 5° 30-pack was received. Couldn't impress me, I felt like even less light was coming out of the S2+ host front (ceilingbouncing at 40 luces).
To be honest I am dissappointed. Pretty sure I am biased but they suck buttloads, I just can't see how is it possible for them to make use of most of the emitter led light. Aspherics for the win! :-D
Thanks for the link, TBone, will read more info from that message thread.
I’d like to know if these TIR lenses from Convoy (they seem to be designed specifically for the S2+), are they also compatible with other Convoy models (eg. S2), or other flashlights (eg. BLF A6/Astrolux S1) — anyone tested them?
I suppose I need to shave the white holder then and shove it down the S2+, but will I also have difficulty later when I want to remove them?
Place the lens atop the emitter and hold it with fingers, then apply a little layer of hot glue around the lens base, fusing the stuff over the MCPCB. Once the pill + lens assembly is screwed inside the head it will remain in place and centered. No problem if the hot glue around the lens were to become a bit gooey due to temperature while it is on.
Heads of an S2 and an S2+ are more alike on the outside than on the inside. AFAIK the S2 used to have a longer reflector, wich was neutralised bij using a shorter pill. That pill does not have to be screwed in as far as in an S2+ with the shorter reflector. Because not needed/used, the threads of an S2 are not going in as far as the threads of an S2. Reflector+pill combined has more or less the same result with S2 and S2. The TIR has the same length as the short reflector. So when using a TIR in an S2 head, you might run out of thread on the inside. You can offset this a bit (but enough?) by also using a clear lens + O-ring. This gives you an extra 2mm and prevents the clear TIR from scratching. Plus I use a butterfly centering ring.
If you do all this you might get lucky, but it is possible you have to use some force to screw in the pill that last bit beyond the final threads.
One more thing, do I need to remove the glass lens when using the TIR lens (so it’s glass lens + TIR lens), or do I remove the glass lens altogether (assuming for S2+).
*I used sandpaper to sand the white plastic holder a bit and using some force was now able to push one down the S2+ head, it still needs a bit of force to get out though. Just wondering if there’s some effect with and without the original glass lens…
