Nice work. Would you be able to share the info as a spreadsheet file, like Google Docs or something similar? Just in case it’s possible. Thanks in advance!
I think it’ll also be good if people may be able to contribute.
(eg. S2+ now has LH351D option ; T2 now has Nichia option, and the new ones are 4-modes (but no strobe) instead of 3-modes (with strobe), etc…)
One of Simon’s KW CULPM1 set/measured at 8amps using one of Nevens (Led4Power) Linear driver in a X6 (no lens) measured on a 4” T/A maukka tube…
Reading with lens…
Working on the second KW CULPM1 in another X6…
Thanks. It’s cool how the emitter gets sucked in to fit perfectly. That said, this is probably where I draw the line. I’d rather have someone else do it for me. I’m a city boy without a workshop. I do have a soldering gun and a butane blowtorch (for creme brulee) but soldering or reflowing emitters is a bit too much for me. Maybe somewhere down the road I can entertain it.
Where did you get this steel bezel for x6?
If compactness is less of a requirement, there are many benefits to going a bit larger. Better heat capacity/dissipation and the larger optic/reflector means you can use a lower power level to achieve the same intensity. The 21700 version of the C8+ should get a look (M21A). This would likely hit ~160kcd with boost HX
Bought 2 of these set’s back in the day…then re-threaded the BLF A6 battery tube to fit the X6… culd not stand the stock battery tube…BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.
Isn’t SBT 90.2 like 50$? There goes your “Decent price tag” out the window 
Maybe it was a “low battery” warning? 20W led + 5A driver + worked few hours! that certainly drained the battery fully.
Sorry, to clarify I was walking around for a few hours and shining it at things intermittently. Battery was still at 4v and even tried a different battery with no luck.
I was hoping for a higher reading. Is it normal for the lens to block so much light?
What’s a good clamp meter to buy? I want to run mine with a fet but need to monitor the current once it arrives
I thought you said above that it was just set to the wrong mode group
UT210E is great bang for buck but theres a few annoying things (piezo, and always starting on AC mode)
Replied before I figured that out, lol
Hi Simon,
Can you make M21a with KW CULPM1.TG?
CSLPM1.TG is enough.
CSLPM1.TG is enough.
Hi Simon,
Any information on using Luminus SBT90-R (the "red brother" of SBT90.2)? Will that be interesting to you? With a proper driver it should be possible to push it close to 2,000lm of red light. The only downside is the price of approx. $ 57.00 per each. :-(
Hello, can anyone please explain me the difference beetween 4 modes and 12 groups driver (one that in S12, S21A and so on). My question is there stabilized work in 12 groups driver like in 4 modes, so the brightness won’t slowly decrease during battery drain). I’m got S12 with 4 modes and its surely stabilized, but I don’t sure about 12 groups).
Mentioning S12 i wanted to ask Simon if S12MCPCB could be available in 3030 build also.
Osram emitters in triple reflector would be much better than under TIR optic
As stabilized I meant constants current working mode (so, as battery drains, current remains unchanged). So, is 12 groups (6A) is constant current driver?
I just pulled off the sense resistor of my L21a (which was initially the 6A 4 mode SST40 driver) and tried to add another one on top (it was already stacked)
Since i did not have the exact same size, I couldn’t get it on very clean and i messed it up, which made me a bit frustrated. After trying to repair it i only made it worse and made an even bigger mess of it.
Than i decided to pull off everything so i got rid of the whole stack and soldered a wire over the sense resistor pads.
The result is (as already expected by Barkuti) that I lost the mode spacing, except for low. So i ended up with a Low mode and 3 Turbo modes 
With a 40T at 4.06 V and the LED4POWER Osram 2mm i measured 8,66 A with my UT210E and measured 16450 Lx (UT383s) at 5 m.
So that’s about 410 kCd wit a standard W2 