Thanks for the welcome to the forums! I’m just delving into the world of flashlights that aren’t a 20-year-old mag light
The board for the 16mm light-up switch will fit in the t5 but the buttons are too large. Has anyone sourced a transparent button that fits? Or even better something like the clear washer/metal button combo for the larger lights?
I got the titanium/copper t3 and this thing is beautiful! I will be checking Ace or somewhere for transparent washers for its lighted switch to allow the colored light to pass through a bit better than the metal washer that comes with it. The transparent washer that comes with the lighted soft switch is just a little too large; maybe some light sanding can bring it down.
This should fit the T5: silicone white button for Convoy T2 T3 flashight
And I would just sand down the perimeter of the transparent washer you have to make it fit.
I tried a lighted switch mod for T5 once, and here is what I’ve encountered:
- Unlike S2+, the tailcap retaining ring unscrews in the normal direction (counter-clockwise).
- The stock button is too big, but Simon sells transparent buttons for T2/T3, they work fine.
- The stock transparent washer is too big. I’ve 3D-printed a new one with transparent PETG, but I think you can file the existing one.
- The stock T3/T5 driver is not compatible with lighted switch: the switch is too bright (high battery drain) and there are issues with mode change. You have to use the 5A driver from S2+ to make it work as expected.
- Some protected batteries (e.g. Lumintop Type-C 14500) show odd behavior with lighted switch: the switch has one brightness if you’ve just inserted the battery, but another brightness after switching the light on and off.
Thank you for the link I couldn’t find it on the site
Silica interesting thank you for that info. I wonder what it is with the driver that makes it not work properly and draw too much. Plan for that one would just be regular old rechargeable AA’s so I don’t think the battery drain will be too concerning
Please do this!
From my experience, the T3 driver is compatible with a lighted switch, but you have to change the resistors on the switch. My copper T3 with a green lighted switch draws 0.09mA at 4.1V, so around 1.6 years on a Vapcell F12.
Oh, that’s neat! The stock resistors seem to be 330 Ohm, what resistance did you get instead?
Can’t wait for S21G in TiCu
I believe I used 5.1K ohm resistors for the green LEDs. You can just experiment with different values until you get the brightness you want.
So, I’ve finally received a pair of dual-fuel 5A drivers for T2/T3/T5 and here are my observations:
- The lowest mode is 1% (no 0.1% here, just like in other T-series drivers)
- This is a buck/boost driver! Boost for AA and buck for 14500. Not sure why it’s marked as being FET for 14500: there are two inductors here, and one of them is getting oscillations with li-ion power — that’s definitely a buck circuit at work.
- There is a very short but bright blink when switching it on in lowest mode. Not sure what’s going on here.
- A small pad near the positive contact appears to be a flashing pad — it’s connected to MCU. I’m not sure what this MCU exactly is, but judging by MCUs used in related drivers, I guess it’s SN8F5702 — and the pad is connected exactly to its flashing pin.
- And now, for something very peculiar: when I was installing one of the drivers, I’ve accidentally force-removed a 10uF capacitor (pictured below) with its PCB pads. I became very annoyed by this incident, and decided to track where the cap is supposed to be connected, so I can repair it by bodging some tiny wires. So, after carefully investigating the PCB, I’ve concluded that it’s connected to… nowhere? There are no traces and no vias nearby. I’ve even took out the second driver and soldered tiny wires to the capacitor, so I can examine the thing with oscilloscope — and yup, there is no voltage being applied at all. Is this some sort of design oversight?..
Hmmm, maybe for Testing purposes? So you can Test the circuit with a floating ground…
Moonlight must be high if it’s 1% of 5A?
My best guess is that it might be used for its physical form instead of electronic function — to prevent battery from contacting if it’s inserted backwards. This also explains the 10uF value — high capacitance is also physically higher.
Yeah, I would call it “low” instead of “moonlight”. It’s the same brightness as S2+ in 1% mode.
For my taste even the 0.1% mode of S2+ is already too high…
And this is way too bright if it is really dark and keeping of night vision is crucial.
That’s one of the reasons why Convoy lamps are not on my bedside table. Don’t know why Simon still does not put a real (!) moonlight mode in, maybe in a special group which is not default by factory. At least the AMC-based linear drivers should be able to deal with this.
1% = 50mA. Its normal main low mode, but not firefly for sure.
Which equals to 15-35 lumens depending on the LED. Even Fenix has lower low sometimes
5 Amps for such a little light is overkill. I guess, 1.5 amp is too much already. Even then you’ll get 1% = 15mA. Firefly must be like 0.1mA