this quad reflector
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i already have 4* 219
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it’s only suitable for 3030/3535 LED,
b35am is 3.65*3.65
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A larger head but probably better for heat dissipation. Not as pocket friendly though. Looking at the design, it looks like a tail mechanical switch and side electronic switch?
I would recommend making the gauge of the MCPCB traces layer as thick as possible, with thin dielectric, and it seems like a copper core works better. The lack of a direct cooling pad makes it especially sensitive to cooling problems.
If using the datasheet-recommended B35AM pad with simple rectangles, it is not ideal for hand centering.
Here is one that works better for centering when it is soldered:
The “overflow” pieces can probably be made smaller if needed, I hope the drawing makes sense.
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This looks great!
Is it possible to make the Knurling Symmetrical / Even, or is that too much of a nitpick?
I tried to do a 3D example here but it doesn’t look great.
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I’m currently using Ledil Angie optics in two modded M21Hs, and they’re only supposed to work with 3535 emitters too. One is using B35AM and the other is using XHP50.3 HI emitters, and the optics work quite well with both.
People have been using Carclo 105XX and 1062X optics with 5050 emitters in Hank’s quad and triple lights and seem to have no complaints.
The extra 0.212mm diagonal of a B35AM vs 3535 emitter, I highly doubt, will have much if any have any negative effects.
The problem with it isn’t the physical dimensions of the package, but the size of the LES. It is large enough (compared to the hole at the bottom of the TIR) that there is too much light loss.
Only works well with 5050 emitters that have a small LES (like the W5050SQ3 or an SFT40 at the largest).
The Ledil Angie has larger holes for emitter domes, due to being a larger optic. The Angie-M is even large enough to work with the XHP50.3 HI, or the large SST-40 dome
The smaller TIRs like a Carclo 105xx/106xx or the ones Simon uses in the S21D have smaller holes, which means they can’t efficiently gather the light from the (relatively) gigantic LES of a B35AM.
Fortunately the B35AM is domeless, and so there shouldn’t be as much tint shift in a reflector compared to most other emitters.
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I prefer the original style, but the third one looks quite good, reminds me of the knurling of the Thrunite Catapult V6. It would probably be sharper than the original render’s knurling though.
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Lumintops Thor Series does a lot of knurling like that too. It looks really nice when the helix/ spiral is done a little tighter making for properly small diamonds.
You’re right I completely forgot about it, my Thor III has that style, it is very sharp compared to traditional knurling (squares, diamonds) while not having as good of a grip.
Maybe if the spacing of each helical cut was smaller and the depth/width of the cuts was smaller. I think I would still prefer the feeling of the original style though (used in the Convoy S21E)
Oh that’s funny I felt the exact opposite. The S21E has the least favorite knurling I’ve ever tried and I loved the Thor 3.
I see what you’re saying now.
I just measured the openings of a bunch of optics and the 25mm Kingbrite have the smallest openings by some margin. Assuming the 35mm version are the same/similar they’d never work with a B35AM.
I guess a quad reflector will have to suffice.
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Personally my favorites are the “simple and boring” square knurling of a Convoy S3 (or an Emisar D4v2) or the diamond knurling of an S2+. They have good grip and they aren’t sharp, so they don’t dig into your hand.
IMO the S21E is almost as nice, but I find that it spins more easily because of the wider spacing of helical cuts.
The only downsides of the finer knurling is that they more easily clog up with dirt or mud.
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Simon, please consider a 4680/4695 version of this light, possibly with active fan cooling.
Hi Simon, can you tell me the exact size of this switch? (length, width and height)
I need it for a project but I have to use a very specific one in terms of size.
Thank you 
Simon, I have a couple of questions about the SFT70 in the L6.
-I see that the 6500K and 5000K are options for it, but the 3000K is not. Is there something about the 3000K that doesn’t work well in the L6, or is it an option you could add?
-I am curious about the driver used, but it doesn’t say what it is in the item listing. Is it 6V5A boost as seen in something like the M21E SFT70, or something else?
Thank you!
It’s added now, I just ordered a Brass S2+ with a B35AM
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I have updated the link.
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