If you have a way (sanding wheel or a very flat smooth stone maybe?) to take off about 1mm while keeping the end perpendicular to the body, you could probably also nip some of the resulting thread to give it a start/feed point.
Doesn’t polishing the threads remove the ano? And thus make it impossible to break the circuit by unscrewing the light a bit?
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In my experience that’s the case with most MAO lights anyway.
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I have quite a few (two emisars and 3 fireflies) and so far they don’t have that problem. And I unscrew them slightly whenever I leave them at home for longer and screw them back in when I use them after coming back. The same when I take them with me, they get unscrewed for transport and screwed back on arrival. So the threads do see pretty regular use
Do they use MAO anodizing?
And yes, the polish does wear down the anodizing, but I use 8000+grit. For MAO, though, the oxidated particles are already doing that with regular use. If you’ve ever used a matte cerakoted light, that’s kind of what it feels like. The surface level is more chalky and piwdery feeling, but the deeper layers become more like the anodizing we’re used to. With threads, depending on the application, it probably won’t hold up for long.
I have a MAO TS10, and it’s easier on my knuckles in a cigar grip than the standard ano.
I was only speaking of MAO lights, so yes. I have plenty of others 
All friction can cause some abrasion, that’s pretty obvious. I’m just thinking that artificially accelerating it for smoothness sake is not worth it when it comes at the expense of safety, at least to me.
Less a specific convoy suggestion and more a forum convoy related suggestion: I wish the convoy thread was more convoy specific and less tangential discussion about non-specific convoy related topics.
I do like the organic discussion of topics in other threads and is one of the major reasons I enjoy visiting forums, but I feel like in the convoy specific thread, it buries the important updates from Simon or safety concerns about drivers not stepping down, etc.
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Hi, new here. i’m here to only give some criticism. I’m not out here to take shots at simon or anyone else, infact i appreciate simon’s honesty and support. But something really needs to change,
i have a if22a and ts10v2, the rest are convoys. x2 M21H lights, x1 L21A, x1 L21B, x1 S21F. and i’ve had NOTHING but problems after problems (except the L21B which has been fine)
1= M21H switch issues (i reckon all side switch lights from convoy have this problem eventually S21F/S21E/M21H/M21E/M21F etc) my M21H worked fine for 5 months
it’s now 7 months old and when i click once it goes into strobe or turbo, or doesn’t do anything. sometimes when i want to use the light it doesn’t do anything
i cleaned threads/tightened retaining rings yatatata all the stuff but nothing fixed it, simon sent me a new driver in my next order.
2= L21A i got it with sbt90.2 when 20a buck driver didn’t exist, it was shipped with 18a FET which stated reverse polarity (this was my first non usb-c flashlight)
so in the dark i put the cell wrong way and i smelt burning electronics smell and it was dead on night 1, i waited a month or so simon sent me new 20a buck in my next order
and that 20a driver failed a few days back, i normally picked up my light. clicked switch and it became mushy and stuck, thought switch died, replaced it with a spare,
it clicked fine but no dice, so i thought led or driver died (before this i tighetened retaining rings and cleaned etc and changed cell) i replaced 20a buck with 3v 8a spare
and the light worked concluded the driver is dead, tried to resolder again and yeah it didn’t work. so he will send me another driver this driver worked for a few months.
3= got a S21F yesterday new light and it has the WORST soldering i’ve seen and after 20 minutes of use one of the 5700k 519a has a mark, it has turned bluer and dimmer
when compared to the other 5700k 519a, afaik this light also uses same switch which is gonna fail in a few months likely, atp he should sell these switches on site for 0.15$
My L21B is the only one that has worked fine so far and i’ve done alot of emitter swaps from cslpm1.tg to SFT40/SFT25R/Getian Green LED currently. (i couldn’t center cslpm1)
4= my second M21H also arrived yesterday and the bezel/tir lens doesn’t fully seat correctly and i gifted that to my brother and ill see how long it lasts, i dont know
but i think the o ring in bezel between ar glass is too thick and the tir lens needs to be grinded from the sides, MAYBE i won’t touch it for now.
for context my IF22A is the FIRST “real” flashlight i got which has gotten me into this hobby, it’s been beat up like crap and works perfectly it’s the OLDEST light i have.
my ts10 v2 also cost 15$ and has anduril/aux/two way clip/battery/fancy box with manual and extra o-rings. cheaper and better than a T3/T5 and smaller. I think convoy needs
to get serious. atleast fix QC issues, i don’t care if their lights are big or don’t have anduril etc, or don’t come with batteries, atleast make quality control good.
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i have ignored physical faults, such as my l21a bezel and tube on the inside having scratches and marks from machining or whatever areas with missing anodization, my l21b o-rings snapping every 2 days until i replaced them with the IF22A o-ring which has been fine for 9 months now lmao, otherwise i’d be replacing orings every 2 days, the m21h ar lens GAP due to maybe too thick of o-ring or the tir lens width being too much and not making full contact on my newer M21H, the charging flap half “EATEN” on the new M21H etc.. small complains but they showcase a MUCH LARGER problem with QC, and don’t let it fool you. there are far better built lights that ship with clips + batteries + fancy boxes for cheaper…
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Simon can sell flashlight heads only. Say you want to go camping and you want to carry a throwy light and a warmer tint floody light. In this case you can carry a single light with two different heads. This would be weight and space efficent.
I don’t expect Simon to offer all kinds of head-led-driver combos. But as a first step, some model’s heads with single or limited color options can be offered. I don’t expect those heads to come with everything installed either. I’d be okay with no led, no driver heads.
What do you think?
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I agree very much with this, and am guilty of it myself. As the moderator also pointed out, having separate threads for non-related optics is also much better for their visibility.
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a better solution is to sell filters and different tir lens or diffusers, for my M21H i have the red light filter for when i need to avoid bugs and it works best with 24 degree tir whcih takes 15 seconds to change, usually i rock 3 degree with sft40 3000k, maybe he can sell different color filters like red light filter maybe orange or cool white filters, diffusers are also good for flood.
it has gotten to the point i dont bother 10 clicks, i just take off switch and always place a cardboard i have in my wallet for when i need to “lockout” my lights lol… my m21h switch is already misclicking and unresponsive at times even tho i have probably only used lockout mode a total of 3 times since i got it 7 months ago
out of my 5 convoy lights mechanical lockout only works in my new s21f which i received yesterday, it doesn’t work on my MAO m21h, or black M21H, or L21B OR L21A…
That’s what Simon just confirmed to me by email - mechanical lockout doesn’t work with MAO because it’s too delicate (wears out on the threads). And because Convoy’s e-switches aren’t very durable I’m thinking of getting another S21E with regular finish and maybe a spare driver.
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i think his problem with e-switch are the actual switch/button itself, the drivers are fine, he should list the switches individually so we can just change the switch itself when it starts misbehaving for like 0.10$ per switch (he has mechanical switches for his tail clickies listed for 0.15:money_mouth_face: so i dont see why not do it with the drivers? imagine you have to pay 5/6$ for a driver just cause a 0.10$ switch fails each time
This is truly awful.
Did Simon at least offer a refund?
Since it is a suggestion thread: would adding a built-in USB charger to T6 be a good idea?
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One would need to make It e-switch in that case.
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If you can solder a new e-switch PCB to those tiny wires, you might also be able to solder a new Alps SKQG to the existing PCB.
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