Convoy tailcap mod with moonlight and analog battery indicator

Since Convoy’s drivers don’t have a proper moonlight, I decided to turn the lighted tailcap into a moonlight substitute, and add a battery indication function to it. The idea behind the latter is simple: if you wire LEDs with different color (thus Vf) in parallel, as battery declines, a greater proportion of the power is sent to the lower Vf color, which is perceivable by eye.

The switch:

Colors at 3.8V and 4.1V:

I used 2 types of resistors: 3 copies of 1200 Ohms and 1 copy of 680 Ohms. The switch PCB is populated by 1200’s, while the resistors in series with the color LEDs are 1200 for red and 680 for green.

White light is provided by a SunLike 4000K, which ends up around 3500K behind the silicone cover. I chose an 2835 LED because it directs more of the light forward than a typical SMD emitter, and thus puts out more light OTF at the same power.

Current draw of the whole system is under 1mA and not measurable by my multimeter.

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Tweaked the resistance values to better bring out the color contrast. Now 3.6V vs 4.2V (not quite the same comparison but the increased contrast is there):

New resistance values are:

  • 1200 Ohms at 2 places: on the white emitter side of the PCB, and in series with the green emitter
  • 3000 Ohms at 2 places: on the indicator side of the PCB, and in series with red.

Some tricks are needed to solder the small SMD components together without a PCB. Use a fine tip iron and put everything face-down on silicone “magic” tape, which is heat-resistant and holds the components in place.

The photos are not under the same exposure settings, though the brightness difference is close to what my eyes see since the phone’s camera doesn’t have the same dynamic range as the human eye.

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This is great, I love that you’ve achieved it without any logic gates, transistors etc. I will definitely try it! Do you know any good sources for 3V 2835 emitters?

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Thank you so much! As much as I wish I did, I have no knowledge about circuit design and thus must come up with a simple way to achieve voltage indication.

I got mine off Aliexpress. If you search “Seoul SunLike”, you should be able to find violet-pumped 98+CRI 3V 2835 LED’s at 3000K to 5000K. I might grab another pack as they are now on sale…

Alternatively, if you don’t care as much for CRI and just want cheap white light, any generic 5V LED strip on Ali comes with 3V 2835 LEDs.

The 2835 footprint is really unimportant; even 3030 or 5730 could do. It’s just that these types of LEDs are encased in a white material that reflects more light upwards than off to the side.

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This looks amazing, great idea! This might be the best improvement to Convoy lights since the introduction of buck drivers.

Am I understanding it correctly that both the moonlight and the green and red LEDs are always on when the flashlight is turned off? If so, how long would it take for them to drain an 18350 battery with 1100 mAh?

EDIT: AI says “With an average current draw of roughly 0.8 mA, the 1100 mAh battery will last approximately 57 days (just under 2 months) before the white LED turns off.”

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Thank you–I am honored by the comparison to the introduction of buck drivers!

Yes: the moonlight plus indicators will all be on when the light is off. It is difficult to estimate how long it would take to drain the cell, but there are heuristics to suggest that it could take a long time:

  1. The current draw starts at less than 1mA, so assuming constant draw, it lasts a month and a half.
  2. The issue with the above estimate is that the current draw is not constant, but declines quickly with lower battery levels. The 4.2V and 3.6V photos above are taken with different exposure values, else the 3.6V one would be invisible, on the order of 100x dimmer than 4.2V.

If one uses brightness as a proxy for current draw, there is good reason to expect the setup to last at least a year. Plus, if the brightness ever drops below, say, 3.6V, it would be immediately obvious.

Also, one can increase the resistor values to extend the runtime arbitrarily!

Maybe we could convince Simon to just use different colors+resistors for the 2 LEDs on his switch, which is an even easier way to achieve the same function.

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