I did the the same mode(R200 removed) couple months a go, only with 22awg wire and stock dedomed XM L2, and there was no moon mode or any current at the led. So i think your reflector is making some contact ,or the wires close to threads are touching some anodised part…
Sorry for my English
My 32 mm Noctigons arrived yesterday do copied this mod shamelessly last night (as declared earlier) and here are the results. :bigsmile:
My reading at 11 meters is 3010 lux. This can be computed to 362,210 cd or 1207 meters throw. This is my strongest thrower so far. 
Also took the tail cap readings and I got 3.62 Amps at 4.13 volts. If my computations are right (I hope), this could be 4.428 Amps to the LED or 971 lumens OTF.
One thing I noticed however is that I don’t have the ‘moonlight’ mode on standby? :~
Well actually its not an exact replica because I used blue and yellow 22 AWG silicon coated wires and green switch cover for the tail switch mod:
And here’s the dedomed XP-G2 on 32 mm Noctigon not having the moonlight at standby mode:
Looking good!
Interesting that you didn’t get the moon mode.
I used longer lead wires so that I can go around the MCPCB since the positive and negative are located next to each other. This could have added some resistance hence no more moon mode. Just my guess. :~
Congrats on your new thrower! However the amps does not go up that way :bigsmile: this is a parallel battery setup so it’s similar to single big cell, in general LED will have same or lower amps based on your driver type/efficiency.
And I think your always-on moonlight may be missing due to the higher Vf of your new emitter on copper.
Thanks Pular13 ! 
At 3.62 Amps tail cap reading and 4.13 volt batteries (yes parallel), I should get 14.9506 W. To get the estimated LED current I used the LED calculator made by sixty545 and for XP-G2, I divided the total power over the Vf which is 3.376 volts and got 4.428 Amps. I just made this formula up so I’m not sure if I’m doing it right though. :bigsmile:
I just received my Courui last week and have been itching to mod it. I’m brand new to this and would like to know how you’re pushing an xp-g2 led up to 4 amps without frying it? Would it be better for me to use an xp-l or is the xp-g2 the best to use to get the furthest throw?
Thanks to DJozz’ testing, we know that XP-G2 on a DTP board is in it’s sweet spot between 4-5 amps.
Whilst the XP-G2 may measure further, it is a much thinner beam profile. An XP-L may be more useful to most people.
We should remember that the driver is not 100% efficient in real world. 
Also I don’t think the Vf of the XP-G2 is only 3.376V at such a high current - I think it’s safe to assume the Vf at 3.62A is around 3.6V if not more?
Anyway you can connect your DMM leads to the LED directly to measure the real output current to the LED.
To dig up an old thread with a question that has probably already been asked:
Did the switch fit under the tail cover without other modification? Did you use a washer on top of the switch or anything like clicky lights normally use?
Switch goes directly on top of the pcb. There's a small gap between the top of the switch body & the lip of the rubber boot. If you were pedantic, you could put a thin washer between the two, but it's not necessary.
I used a plastic switch washer, it’s a perfect fit.