I got several Y3's and several HD2010's and one Courui bought recently from Kaidomain. See post #128 in this thread. Basically, the Courui stock out throws the Y3 and HD2010. Thinking roughly 45-50 kcd for the HD2010's, 50-60 kcd for the Y3, and I measured ~75 kcd for the Courui stock. All stock #'s. The Courui did better than what I thought, but as I mentioned earlier in this thread, I believe they made minor mods from the earlier versions. Of course all these lights are subject to the Chinese lottery - you may get a good one, may get a bad one. HD2010's are XML T6, while the Y3 andCourui are XM-L2. The HD2010's are basically direct drive so high amps (for the good ones), but the Y3 and Courui throw as good or better at much lower amps - better cell life, less heat, etc.
CSgearbest, thanks for the support, as always. You might not be a perfect vendor but at least you, IMO, are the most responsive, (especially when concerns arise), among the Chinese vendors currently selling online.
I know right. Is this not one of the most insane modding lights ever.... One LED, 10 leds. Keep the driver, use another. Keep the momentary, Go to a tail switch..... ON and ON and On. And these are just the things I thought of I AM willing to talk about Awesome!
Mine arived in good shape, just the usual pinhead sized chips in the anno on the sharp edges of the stumpy 'fins'. It seems comparable to an Olight SR51 but with a more tightly defined hotspot due to the smooth reflector.
If by "what you guys have been enjoying" you mean modding lights, your already off to a good start. Reading up is free. Soldering irons are cheap... From there rrrrr uuummm Well your wallet may go on a diet, but its worth it...
We all started this hobby in exactly the same place, with a good bit of curiosity and little else.
Is it worth replacing stock driver with the LD-1??
I want to order one and use the maxtoch mcpcb and VOB’s sink… I don’t aim for the ultimate throw and output but a balanced decent throwing light that can run on 1000lm for 3+ hours with no drop.
I think that sounds like a good idea. You might want to heatsink the LD-1 or potentially use the “expander” board shown in the OP here. (and heatsink the expander board). 3 good cells in parallel driving a <5A load should hold up their voltage well, so you’re talking about a fair amount of heat (1.5W+). I’d say that it’s best not to free-float the driver above your contact board.
, could you please PM me with your order number, I will take this issue.
Awesome!
