I understand the better brands have about a 10 year shelf life…is that their only claim to fame?
In flashlights that only take one CR123A…can you use a RCR123A or 16340 instead? Is the RCR123A and 16340 the same?
For all 18650 single cell lights, can you use 2 CR123As?
Confused and don’t wanna get blowed-up…
I think with most multi 18650’s it’s not recommended to use like 8x CR123’s.
I considered CR123’s vs 14500’s when I was considering smaller lights, decided on 14500’s.
Will be interested to read some of the posts in this thread.
I have quite some cr123-size small lights. For me it is a difficult decision: AA size or cr123 size in a small light. The AA size has (often) the advantage of being able to use cheap alkalines, and 14500's have a bit more energy than 16340's. But I like the form factor of cr123-size lights better: shorter and a bit thicker (so wider reflector). Since I noticed I just not use alkalines in practical life, I use cr123 lights more.
Most cr123 lights can handle the higher voltage RCR123's (or 16340's, it is the same) which give more lumens (the driver does not have to boost the voltage and goes into direct drive) and are rechargable.
All in all, I think AA size lights are the better choice, but eventually I became a big fan of the cr123-size for no true rational reason.
I’m pretty sure a RCR123A IS a 16340 (not 16350). As far as using two in a light designed for 18650 - it depends on the driver. Some drivers will handle the double voltage of two cells in series, others release the magic smoke.
In addition to the shelf life, they’re probably the best performing primary battery.
It’s kind of hard to compare them to rechargeables. I feel like primaries serve a different purpose.
Not all CR123 lights can take a Li-ion, and not all Li-ion lights can take 2xCR123. It depends on the voltage range of the driver.
RCR123 can be Lico or Lifepo4. Lico is the typical “Li-ion” cell and is the same as 16340 Li-ion. Lifepo4 has lower voltage, similar to a primary CR123, and can be used in all CR123 lights.
Oops…yes, 16340. Corrected in OP.
I haven't found a "3-4.2v" (or "3-4.5v", or "3-5v", I've seen 7135 drivers with identical components using all those voltage ranges in the specs) driver yet that wasn't happy with two 3v CR123s. They have a good bit of sag under load and the drivers have a bit of tolerance built in, whether intentionally or accidentally, who knows. Two 4.2v 16340s is a riskier proposition, I don't try that unless the driver specifically says it's OK with 8.4v input. Most 16340s will sag a lot less than the plain CR123s.
I believe the CR123 was designed initially to power cameras. A small, relatively high-voltage (compared to AA’s) battery to power a device that is on, and then off, and then on, and then off. And then along comes Surefire, who see the high energy density and apply it to flashlights. Surefire have government contracts, and they become the go-to brand, and the light manufacturers follow suit. This overlooking the terribly output that CR123’s have under high, constant load. It won’t be long before they’re obsolete. The whole 10-year shelf life thing is kinda cool, but any decent enthusiast can thing-out a pedal-powered battery charger if he/she really thinks the world will come to an end.
So, in your over-the-top analogy, I should not use CR123s in the 'emergency' light I keep in my glove box in my car, and instead keep a pedal-charger thing in the trunk instead just in case the emergency light is dead when I really need to use it?
Why does everyone have to jump straight from smoothly functioning technological society right into eating roadkill cooked over a tire fire to survive? Isn't it possible there are some situations in between those two extremes? Like, a long-shelf-life battery for infrequently used emergency devices as opposed to having to generate your own pedal-powered electricity to recharge a battery?
And yet strangely I have yet to feel a need to build my own pedal-powered battery charger. :davie:
I overlooked that aspect, you are correct.
Many lights designed for CR123’s DON’T work with RCRs/LiCo cells. Check the warnings on FourSevens and Martec CR123 lights. The drivers can’t handle the extra voltage.
CR123 cells are great for single cell lights. They are, however, the most dangerous cell you could possibly use in multi-cell lights with series connected cells. CR123’s contain metallic lithium and a cell imbalance can lead to the ever-popular, ever-entertaining “pipe-bomb” effect. Meh, you don’t need ten fingers now, do you?
Depends on your take of things tbh.
They are a 3.0v primary battery, that as a rule is fairly easily available off the shelf from many highstreet shops. They were often used in photography and many cameras used to run on them.
The big advantage is 3.0v vs 1.5v for an AA battery. They also don’t leak like alkaline, aren’t affected by the cold, have a very stable discharge curve, meaning they hold their voltage well under use. And as you say have a long shelf life.
Overall 1xCR123a offers similar performance to running 2xAA for flashlight use (lower runtime). But in a much smaller package and without any of the alkaline downsides.
This will depend on the torch in question. An ICR/IMR 16340 li-ion will be 4.2v, many torches are not designed for this high a voltage, so you’ll fry them.
There are LiFePo4 batteries which are closer to 3.0v and offer a rechargeable option.
Again, this is dependant on the driver of the light. As 2xCR123a’s is 6.0v vs 4.2v for an 18650.
Many lights aimed at the Military or Police can run on 6.0v as they tend to use primary cells rather than rechargeable ones.
I like the format of those cells, it’s more appealing than 14500 to me. (Love my UF-T20 without the adapter for example)
I only care for rechargeable cells thought. Primary cr123a go for 12…13€ here in the supermarkets or photo shops per piece, that’s almost 18US$.
I should have gotten a carton of those before the Chinese shipping disaster.
CR123 batteries ARE photo batteries. In fact, I still have my Canon Elan 35mm SLR that uses CR123 batteries (but I haven’t used it since Kodachrome processing was discontinued). My biggest pet peeves with the things is that they were expensive and relatively hard to find (at least when I was out and about shooting pictures in the middle of nowhere). Of course, these things were not too much of a concern in a camera, since cameras don’t draw too much current. So a CR123 actually lasts a decent amount of time in a camera. But when I started seeing CR123 flashlights at Fry’s about 8-9 years ago, I wasn’t interested. Given the price and relative difficulty of finding these batteries, the last thing I wanted was something that BURNS through them.
High current was exactly the reason these batteries was used in cameras, but the high current was only in short bursts when doing frame advance or charging the flash.
Surefire was also very fast at adapting these batteries for flashlights.
That’s true. But average current during use is low since these things are quite intermittent. Plus, in my case, I tended to use the camera mostly outdoors. So recharging the flash (which probably draws the most current) wasn’t an issue.
I have a couple of CR123 lights… like a Maratac Copper and a few FourSevens Quark Minis, oh and a couple of Mini-01’s. The way I use them (daily use EDC lights), the battery lasts at least a year. And costs a whopping whole $1.00
You slund like you’re FAR more conservative with your lights than I am. I can’t imagine the batteries on ANY of my lights lasting a whole year. As for getting them for a dollar each, I’ve NEVER seen them that cheap at the local grocery or drugstore. I’m guessing you’re ordering them in bulk somewhere?
You can find Surefire cells at Lowes for $5 for a pair. Every Lowes I’ve been in has them.
High quality US made cells can be found online for less than $2 a piece by the piece.
Not sure why local drug store or grocery store prices would be a point of comparison. Not like anyone buys Eneloops or Li-ions locally.