I like the low Vf.
Will it not fit on a 3535 board with a split + or - trace?
It's strange that Kof3 measured 1.774mm2 LES for Z ES, I always thought these bigger lumileds chips were 2mm2, cd/mm2 is really close to XP-G2 S4, but a lot of XP-G2's lumens comes from green part of spectrum (that's cheating in LED world), Z ES is factory dedomed with great tint. At the same current (4-4.5A) Z ES wins. Also, Mouser and other suppliers only buy random (typical) binned reels which could be 1+ year old, there is a good possibility 10-20% higher bins exist.
Apparently it is inconvenient enough to not use assymmetrical leds with uncommon footprints, at least it is for me. I had an unpleasant experience a few years ago trying to fit a Rebel into a C8, and even though I have fitting Rebel-Sinkpads, I never got it focussed very well. I’m really glad that Lumileds has made a nice square led again (Luxeon V), a slight reaming of a XP-centerpiece makes it centered like a dream.
The Z ES is all over the automotive world for good reason, and it seems that Osram comes with a promising new led too. But I almost hope that it does not outperform existing leds because I’m not looking forward to fitting it into a flashlight :confounded:
I kind of like the reflow challenges. 
…that is, when it succeeds…
Honestly reflowing the synios was one of the easiest I’ve done.
The reflow of the SYNIOS was relatively easy indeed. The Z ES is much smaller and very sensistive in handling, it could happen that small pieces of silicone / phosphor come off the LED if mishandled or not properly taken with tweezers.
In general, the smaller the emitter the less is the maximum possible overcurrent despite a very theoretically low thermal resistance, like E21A or Z ES. That’s my concern about the trend to develop ever smaller LEDs than their predecessors…
Yeah that’s why I’m hoping for luminus to release more LEDs like the CFT90
Already on MCPCB and with big thermal pads.
In this picture (after gradient mapping) it is clear how big the LES is. The dark area is the LES of the Z ES, and in my tests I only measuring this area. Solder pads and/or bonding wires are not counted to the LES.
The red rectangle marks the package size. This agrees with the size stated in the datasheet (page 18), I got 1.68 x 2.02 mm (stainless steel vernier caliper).
In a new measurement with this picture shown her I got 1.80 mm² LES for Z ES.
It seems they are ok but a bit rusty:
Good to know :+1: Mine are still on the slow boat
This might be happen if the humidity on storage is very high or if the sealing bag is leaky. (Or the reel is really really old)
All my other ordered LEDs (Mouser, Digikey, Intl outdoor) didn’t look that way…
anyone tested them ?
I also bought this from Intl outdoor store. Hank is owner of that store For price I got I am very happy.
The best packed emitter comes from Mouser indeed. They have hermetically closed aluminum bag and silica gel or something like that inside for preventing moisture.
I will have to start re-flowing them but I will probably have to clean that rust first with very fine piece of sandpaper or maybe even 0000 grade steel wool and after that they will go to Isopropyl alcohol bath and then they will be ready to reflow and de dome.
I will report lux results with my current lights that has roughly around 220kcd with old G2S32B so i expect it has to be at least 10-20% more or I will not be happy…
Also it might be a good idea to bake the parts to prevent damage to the LED because there could be some humidity inside the LED, just to be on the safe side.
I know that the MSL of Cree emitters is 1, but I’m not so sure about this - if such rusty areas can be seen.
Wouldn’t it bake enough on re flowing? I use solder paste and final touch is press from above so I can push all excess solder plus I am much closer to that dtp pad.
And after that it will be cooked in fluid (dedomed).
Like in kitchen lol :laughing:
I have seen many leds with those stains on the bottom and I never bothered cleaning them before reflowing them, at least the solder flows fine over that area. But perhaps for that last bit of performance… :partying_face:
Guys,
You don’t have to be worried if your are slightly rusted as in my picture… It is really nothing… 2000 grit and just few ultra gentle strokes removes that easily. I have a felling that even school rubber could remove that.
Today I was in the kitchen…
Baking:
and cooking:
Now they need to rest some time for better taste and we are ready to go 
nice,what liquid you used for cooking ?
Last time he used ‘nitro-thinner’. At least it was something with a lot of toluene in the mixture. In the meantime it was found out that pure toluene works very well too.
I’m curious if this batch performs as expected!
Don’t worry guys I will report… Haven’t had a time to build anything yet. Yes Nitro thinner.
For now they look brighter than g2s32b when I lighten them up with multimeter. That is good indication that something baddass should happen.