Cree XHP70 up to 4022 Lumens and XHP50 up to 2546 lumens - Multi-die leds.

“Conventional” current flow is stated as going from + to -. Electrons flow from negative to positive; Basic DC current flow terms explained.

…But this is BLF, right :slight_smile:

Them F'in electrons need to learn how to flow the other way.

Boy, I hate to change the subject but………
:slight_smile:
From what I have been reading here, if I wanted to build a triple XHP-70 light that is well driven, then I should power it with a 2s3p or 2s4p 18650 setup using a wight zener modded driver. The XHP-70 should be set to 6v each and wired in parallel. I know DBCstm is working on a 2s2p M6 which would be cool, but have limited runtime. And I know OL is combining 2 SKR type battery holders to get 2s4p, but that is a lot of work. What I would like to know is exactly which driver and parts list, including that premium Toshiba FET and what host will have enough meat in the pill and head and have a native 2s4p cell holder. For example this light uses 2s3p but I don’t think it would make a good host as the pill and head are not massive enough.

Are there any other options for a good host?

I suppose I could settle on the M6 if that conversion to 2s2p carrier works well enough.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10003979/1285900-fandyfire-l3-cree-xm-l-t6-4-mode-5000-lumen-7-led-

The BTU Shocker is ideal with a massive head for heat sinking. IF an extension tube can be found to fit this BTU Shocker (late to the game, just got my first one) then using 3S2P would be the way to go.

If a single pair of LG’s can deliver over 14A then 3 pairs should easily do that and maybe then some and have that added run time, right? The reflector in this light is one huge chunk of aluminum, that also helps spread heat away from the emitters, and with all this said, didn’t Cree claim the XHP series wasn’t as prone to heat issues?

And another thing I forgot to ask. If the input voltage is 8.4v and the LEDs are set for 6v, how does that wight driver with and FET drive it. How is the current regulated to each emitter. I am used to seeing FET drivers that are DD on high, using PWM for the lower modes.
Also, is it possible to use that same driver with a 3s2p input? I am assuming that there is not enough headroom to run those LED’s configured at 12v with 3s2p for very long with out the cells depleting to a point that there is a huge drop off in output. Or is there actually a way to do THAT?

I think he actually meant 2S3P, going by what he was describing (he said “3 pairs” in the text above).

I know, I was confusing. I switched and also asked about a 3s2p setup. In other words, can that same wight driver that will drive a 6v LED with 8.4v input also be able to run it with 12.6v input.

Depends on the driver. A buck driver or Zener modded linear FET DD driver might but not a Zener modded 7135 driver. The problem I see with series cells is the greater drop in pack voltage vs the same number of cells in parallel and the more cells in series the greater that drop will be. The problem with parallel cells is the higher IR losses that go with the higher currents needed to achieve the same wattage as a series set up. Porked either way.

Richard talked me into trying it on 3 cells. With Panasonic PD’s at 4.16V rested it put out 16,112 lumens. I only ran it long enough to get that reading out of the box and then shut it down, feeling pretty sure something was gonna fry and die. Don’t know if it would have, but still… I was scared to try hotter cells and didn’t. I was thinking the same thing, the driver is known to be ok with 8.4V but the Zener is knocking that down to protect the MCU and if you add one more cell I’d think the Zener would be getting hot at the very least. The Vf on the emitters will go up to 7.3Vf or more, and the cells will sag down into the 11’s, but still, quite a lot burned off that way.

What if the 12V set-up were used? Then the 3 emitters would be wired in 12V parallel, they could at least be driven direct drive for a serious flash bang light em up what the he let the good times roll colossal burst of BAM!

And yes, I meant 2S3P…. is it customary to always say the series part first? The BTU carrier holds 3 cells. If an extension were able to be used and this configuration changed to 3 parallel with the extension the same, it would be 3 pairs of cells. That’s what I meant to say.

5506 lumens, from a single XHP70 in an Eagle Eye X6.

I finally got around to modifying my Solarforce M7. What’s that got to do with the X6? Well, the M7 had a secondary tube that I can no longer use with that light. It was very close to fitting on the X6, so I did some tweaking and got the X6 working with 2 Efest 35A cells. :slight_smile:

I didn’t bother to charge up these 2, just tried it out. So now they’re going on the charger and we’ll see if there’s any more to be found.

Heck of a lot of output for a “single emitter” light!

This one has the Minnie M reflector so it’s a pretty nice beam profile. :bigsmile:

Edit: Fresh charged 35A’s do 5633.85 lumens. I’m about to head outside with this X6, the BTU Shocker, and my newly built Courui MT-G2. These new lights are so far over the top that none of the old lights really compare. lol

Yeah nice :smiley: this is what i have been wondering about, i wish EE or whoever is making the actual hardware (Adega?) would make a 2x18650 extension for the X6.

I want to play with some XPH’s s too, and i like the X6 size in a flashlight but the Solarforce M7 at 60$ for an possible extension is way to much unfortunately.

How does the Minnie M fit in the head, like stock? is there some more affordable extension i could use with a bit of modding perhaps?

Did you run it DD or a zener FET driver?

Well, if you could settle for 2S 26650 or 3S 26650, then you could use a “D” Maglite body with the BTU Shocker head. It might be just a little work, but a D Mag body does just about thread into a BTU Shocker head, into the driver threads that is.

Don’t forget the Convoy M1 I really like the host with really nice anodization and square threads. It has a smaller head than the Eagle Eye X6, has a nice shelf for the emitter like X6 and easily accommodates the emitter (I assume- as it takes the MTG2 nicely) Add in a TIR and a chunk of copper. Ouchyfoot did one up nicely. I have the host in hand, I’m just waiting for the 4000 Kelvin XHP70’s to come in stock.

Thanks for the suggestion scottyhazzard :slight_smile: The Convoy M1 is a nice host.
But the Convoy M1 is still only a possible 2x18350 unfortunately.

What i like so much about the idea of a X6 with the Minnie M reflector & 2x18650 extension, is that it should have twice the runtime & more lumens at start, and i want to be able to use it for longer with sustained output.

A x6 with a XPH70 & the Minnie M is the perfect step up from the triple & quad builds :bigsmile: and i have plenty of X6’s to upgrade………

Ok, a 6 light comparison, with 3 being XHP70 lights

For this shoot-out, I dropped my standard setting ISO from 1600 to 400. Everything else is the same. So, Canon G1X ISO400, f/5.6, 1/2 sec shutter, 2 second timer Manual mode, Manual focus.

SupBeam K50 w/de-domed XM-L2

Black Shadow Terminator, modified at around 4300 lumens

SupFire M6 Triple XM-L2 modified at 4700 lumens

Eagle Eye X6 XHP70 w/M7 tube for two 35A cells at 5600 lumens

BTU Shocker Triple XHP70 at 12,000 lumens

SupFire M6 Triple XHP70 modified at 13,900 lumens

All lights respective cells were charged immediately preceding this photoshoot. No animals were harmed in the making of this test. :wink:

Thanks Dale :slight_smile:

The Eagle Eye X6 XHP70 w/M7 tube, that is just great plenty of even usable light, the other 2 are much brighter of course :bigsmile: but i would hardly call them more usable :wink:

Is it really that even & smooth & with almost no hotspot in person also?

The Minnie M does a better job than the Mirella or Iris or even the Fraen. I’ve got the Iris in an X6 with an MT-G2 and it’s ok with that.

As an added bonus, the Minnie M is easy and also looks factory. :wink:

I hope a suitable extension tube can be found for sale somewhere soon, otherwise may just have buy an extra host kit (or sacrifice one i already have, the extra head would still be usable) & saw off the tailcap threads to make a fitting so i can connect two of the battery tubes, it should work :smiley: i hope :wink:

What do you think Dale is it a workable solution? you have handled & modded a lot of X6’s so i hope you can give me an evaluation on the idea & if it is possible.

Good to know that the Minnie M fits like stock, almost too good you know, now i almost have to try & do this :smiley:

The second tube length is not the same as the first one because of the way the tail cap threads on. The battery tube is longer than the cell so the spring from the tail cap can protrude down inside and press the cell, if you double this additional length it causes fitment issues with the cells.

Nitro is working on a solution with his guy at the shop, if that guy can’t or doesn’t then there are others. :wink: One way or another we’ll get tubes made that fit perfectly and are a good match.

Of course, Adega could solve this problem quite simply and make a lot of their customers deliriously happy. :wink:

I’ll have to look for one of those Minnie m’s. Interesting what OL was saying about the Maglite BTU Shocker. I wonder how the D Mag would look with the XHP70 and that little reflector/pill combo Dale used in his MTG2 build. Two 26650’s and some bypassed springs. Might be very nice.