Got my 7G10 yesterday! Removed the bank of 4 R056 resistors and jumped with 18awg solder coated wire to double the out put easily on 4 vtc5’s I like the ramping/ memory feature UI too You can make it turn on H/L or L/H or just ramp up/down all you want. Double click for the hidden strobe/sos. It’s tore down completely now and it is extremely well built! Gonna be a KILLER MOD!! :bigsmile: XHP70FETDDMoppydrv! 
Well done! Your resister delete + jumpers was with the stock driver and MT-G2? Before you put it together, can you please check the current going to the emitter with your DMM?
Also - there was no glue or Lock-Tite on the 7G10's bezel? Easy to tear down? My early version 7G9 was glued up pretty good.
Gah! The bezel on my 7G9 was incredibly stubborn! In fact, the worst Ive ever come across. I had to heat it with a blow torch at least 6 times and tore a boa constrictor strap wrench (through brute force and pestilent anger!) 
Yes, stock driver. Stock driver is actually a (3) FET/7135 driver, Q1,Q2 and Q3 are FET’s and U3 is a 7135. I measured 3.2 amps at tail cap before, and 5.8 amps after. The stock driver + spring has a pigtail soldered into a center hole (via) in the driver? Never seen that before? There is tons of resistance to over come, but that’s what I like the challenge! The - minus battery pcb is sandwiched between the tail cap and body , no fasteners, and naturally 4 springs. Braiding needed. Battery carrier is very well built and FOOL PROOF you can put it in any way you want! I didn’t test voltage to the emitter, since I have already taken the light completely down. Driver pcb is not conducive to my plans because I like to run the + lead from the spring to the LED, so no piggy backing! I’ll make a ring out of copper (adapter)and solder the 26mm FETDD driver to it, and the retainer ring will hold all of it together. The driver pcb has a nylon, plastic, cover pressed into the body, which can be removed with out damage by slamming it a few times on wood of course, it just comes flying out! The LED is covered by a plastic cover with centering ring built into it. Which can be removed once you remove the driver, you can just push it out/off thru the lead holes with a punch, again no damage! I like the plastic cover’s, makes everything look clean! But might not play well into my plans either we’ll see? Over all the light is very well built, The reflector very clean, and a very nice soft / light stippling or OP, not overbearing and cd choking like I have seen on other lights! The head is as big and heavy as a Jax X6. It has serious potential and is a STEAL at the price, IMHO!
I got a whole thread here on the 7G9: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/14618 
. It was an incredibly bad ordeal. I had the light modded by vinh, thought he was upgrading the LED but didn't - later I found out why...
So, you sure the bezel is not glued then on the 7G10? Oh, k - below, thanks!!
KawiBoy1428 wrote:Got my 7G10 yesterday! Removed the bank of 4 R056 resistors and jumped with 18awg solder coated wire to double the out put easily on 4 vtc5’s I like the ramping/ memory feature UI too You can make it turn on H/L or L/H or just ramp up/down all you want. Double click for the hidden strobe/sos. It’s tore down completely now and it is extremely well built! Gonna be a KILLER MOD!!
XHP70FETDDMoppydrv! ;)
Great news. It should help to swap in the Vishay SUD70N02-03P FET (If you have any. They seem to no longer be available) or the other good FET in that package format. I've been wanting to look at that driver to figure out why it has that unusual arrangement of 3 (not parallel) FETS. Now you have my second guessing my plans. I was going to either go buck for 9 amps or DD with 4S cells. Now you have me thinking of copying you and sticking with the stock driver. Anyone know what current 2S2P SDI INR18650-25's would likely achieve with the XHP70?
Regarding glue: I think only the 7G9 model is glued. My 7G10 was not glued.
Hey Tom, no glue on the bezel, but the tail cap (pcb retainer) was glued pretty heavily, but with the heat gun, heavy gloves and strap wrench, it was off in a few minutes! You don’t really need to remove the bezel to extract the reflector to get to the LED, just remove the head from the body. Like a Yezl Y3!
I would like to use the driver if only it had a + spring pad!! But there is another + via inline with the spring via that may come in handy?
Great news guys!
My 7G9 has no glue anywhere, except the tail cap. In fact all the threads are nicely lubed. Totally broke down the light (except tail) in less than a minute. What a relief. I was dreadding that part, but wanted the light bad enough to deal with it.
KB1428 (what does the "1428" stand for? Your bikes cc's?),
I grabbed my old 7G10 driver from the spare parts box. I see what your talking about with that one Batt+ via. The trace looks like it might have a fairly thick copper layer, but I will definitely be augmenting it if I go with the stock driver. Good catch :)
Yep it is 1428cc’s! Yeah the driver is very robust, nice wide and thick traces! I don’t know why this thing didn’t get much love, I think it’s down right awesome? After jumping the resistor’s I put it against a stock K40M and it was just as bright, but had a better whiter tint to me, the M looked a little rosy? The G has a really thick 3mm aluminum mcpcb, doubt it’s DTP and It looked and smelled to be Artic Silver 5 thermal grease between it?
Damn, that bike must haul. Biggest engines I have had are in the 1100-1200 range.
I hear your bro. I've been singing the same tune. It holds more cells, has a bigger diameter reflector, has tons of heat sinking, and just looks down right manly to me. Wait till you get the emitter up to a proper height. I don't know if you noticed, but just a small portion of the MTG2 dome sticks into the reflector. The plastic cover and flat reflector bottom pushes the emitter down too low.
EDIT: In case it matters regarding the 7G9 and no glue. I purchased the NW version. It has an XML (Not XML2). The product page header said it would be XML2, but I'm not complaining.
You guys are kill'n me! There must be at least one left because he still has them listed... Hhhhhmmmmmm
Thought bout it all of 2 secs, and just ordered a 7G10. Nice - free shipping too!
Your going to like it alot!
Thanks for all the details guys. I just grabbed the last 7G10. Its hard to believe the low price these were going for. This should be a fun mod, especially without the glued bezel. Id almost buy a another 7G9, if not for the difficult time mine gave me in trying to crack it open.
^
Maybe Jake can check the remaining 7G9's for glued heads. Mine wasn't glued. It was actually nicely lubed.-
Thanks 4wheelr. Im considering it. I just wish it were 3S instead of 3P, but the price certainly is attractive considering the host. Hmm…
ImA4Wheelr Did what you suggested and kept the stock driver then swapped the FET’s out with RMM’s IRFR3711ZTRPBF’s N channel MOFSET’s, ditched the pigtail spring and made the driver board via into a contact, added a brass contact to the battery carrier, so contact to contact (+) kept the plastic driver cover too. Keeps everything centered. Finally I had to add a 25mm stripped Noctigon copper spacer under the 20mm XHP70 stink-pad with that 90cr XHP70 shaved, and of course all springs bypassed, 18awg leads,and all I can say is WOW! It’s way Brighter Now! But after about 30 seconds it’s starts to drop like a ROCK? I really can’t see it by eye, but the meter does? Not savy on drivers, but what could be the next weakest link? I wanted to try everything possible because I really like the driver with the smooth stepless ramping and 2 level UI?
Did you copper braid the battery carrier springs? They would probably overheat at high current.
When I have a situation like you do, I do this if the light permits it:
- Connect a volt meter to monitor battery pack voltage.
- Connect a DMM to measure current to the emitter or carrier (DD situation).
- Use a IR gun or something to monitor head temperature
- Use a light meter to measure lumin output.
Turn the light on high and start watching everything. Hopefully, the cause of the output drop reveals itself.
EDIT: Added to second bullet.
Do you guys have any tips on removing the plastic driver cover? I can get a right angle probe in the spring hole but after some pretty significant force it didn’t budge. I’m considering drilling and tapping in some 1/4-20 bolts or drilling some small holes around the outside to loosen it up but I’m not sure how thick it is.