Poor little V4A, there’s not many flashlights that are checked out as thoroughly as this one :party:
I can measure throw tomorrow, tonight is spoken for.
Surely you should know that is not the case. 
As said, alkalines are horrible for high-drain devices like this flashlight. There’s no way you’re going to get good output from alks. Use high-quality NiMH cells, such as Eneloops. They’ll give you the most output. Alternatively, you can use disposable lithium primaries, such as Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA cells.
Finally, measure the lux at a distance of 1 meter.
Thank you all.I’ve got 4 Eneloop Pro batteries,and I try the light.
I write about later.
Well, my lux meter is currently being used for something else, and is limited to 20k lux. So, I can’t measure right now, and I’d have to measure from a long distance and scaled up.
Alkaleak batteries are not the right kind to use. NiMH are what a light like this needs.
The lux is best measured much further away than 1 meter and then calculated back to lux@1meter. The standard that manufacturers should use is 10 meters.
Good point, for a throwy light like this. For a flooder, probably doesn’t make much difference.
I put in the black Eneloop Pro batteries,charged these with a VC4,and I measured 37946Cd.
I see that it is 55% of the written intensity,so,either my light is not good,or the company is writing lies in the leaflet.(It is written 68362Cd).
Well, it is slightly larger than an X3. If it is pushing around 1000lm with an XPL-HI then 70kcd certainly doesn’t sound unreleastic to me.
Your cells are full charged? Proper lux measuring method? Exact distance, proper calculation to cd?
Is your reflector smooth or can you see tiny ridges? No damage on the LED?
I’ll check them all,thank you.
Just measured the throw of my V4A, freshly charged Eneloops, 30 seconds after switch-on, measured at 7 meters distance, I get 64 kcd.
So the specs are close enough, even though the significance of 5 digits 
that they are giving does not sound all too trustworthy.
I put the Eneloops in the LiitoKala 500,and did a Fast test,recharging and then charging again these.After that, I measured the light,and I saw 40000+Cd.The distance was the same as before,ie 4.8m.
I’ll try at 7.5m to see if it is better.
It can be be a focus problem: if the led is out of focus the throws drops quite fast. Does your beam show a nice tight and distinct hotspot?
My owner’s manual says to put the positive side toward the springs, is this correct?
Well, I never read the manual, so I just inserted the batteries normally. That is, negative end touching the springs. Worked fine. The manual sounds lost in translation.
Thank you, the manual is WRONG. Put them in as manual says and no work. Put them in with neg to the springs and works fine. Thanks again, I thought the light was bad!
About a week ago I posted a negative review on the BangGood site. It hasn’t appeared. I can only assume these sites only allow good reviews, which if true, is corrupt.
Pretty much. Anything below 4 stars seems to get rejected alot. I once gave something a 3 star review (i was being generous too) and they emailed me asking why i rated it so low. I told them my reasons are in the review they are censoring. Never heard back.
If you give these places bad reviews on sites like Reseller Ratings they will try to bribe you with points to change your review. I did change my review to reflect the bribery and took a star away.
Dx.com used to be honest, all reviews were posted and their forum not censored, and I think it is still like that. Same with Fasttech, I believe. All others, do not bother checking the reviews.
I dared pulling the driver on mine for a second time to undo my 0.1 ohm modification. Last time I worked the button wires back into the driver cavity, so this time around it was relatively easy.
After measuring current and closer inspection I realized this resistor is useless and will eventually burn. Even the stock resistor is a bad selection. It seems to be a 0.25 W part, putting up with around 0.5 W when the light is at 100%. The current limit is given mainly by the impedance of the battery pack and springs. So feel free to bypass this resistor and see it as a first suspect if your driver dies unexpectedly. Mine is now just a piece of copper wire.