Would an xpg2 on a noctagon star survive 3 amps mounted in a P60 host?-Rick
Yes. I just made one a while ago with a qlite 3.04A. There’s likely thermal sag in there though since I didn’t bother to modify any of the stock parts.
I’ll likely take it apart down the road and try my hand at using that p60 mod from that thread I have no idea where it is… Add some thermal compound to the threads too.
Cool!That is exactly what I am planning to use.I will use it mostly on medium so a bit of thermal sag on high won’t be a problem.I’ll just wrap it tight with foil before I shove it in SF host.-Rick
An XP-G2 @ 3A will look something like this:
30s 673 lumens
1 min 641 lumens
5 min 583 lumens
Tj of 150 C will be at about 10m 40secs
These numbers are with a copper wrap and copper thread wrap.
Also these measurements were taken without the host being hand held, so in your hand, it will be better.
Hope this helps.
3A are possible.
I have a xpg in a AA zoomie with normal li on <3A everything is fine with a IMR it gets 5A and turns blue.
OK, I got back from VA last night and put together my xpg2 P60 using a q-lite driver with the fourth star jumped.(Moon,low,med,high).Dropped it in a L2m host and only have one mode?What did I do?I soldered in many of these drivers w/no problems?
Check for shorts possibly at the reflector if it’s on high.
I checked my shorts, there clean….Oh, sorry!You mean the drop-in.I do have an insulator between the star and the reflector.I do have the reflector down tight though to keep the star against the pill.Mabey I’ll try another reflector?
You can put a small piece of black tape over the wires to make sure that it’s insulated. I have shorted a few of these by having my solder bumps from the wires just a little too high. In fact when I want to direct drive one I do it on purpose.
Got it now, I must have damaged the driver when I installed it?I replaced it with an old SF low voltage 3 mode and all is working.While I was at it I used some heavier gauge solid copper wire.I doubt it made a differance but I found it a bit easier to work with.I could actually just bend the leads from the driver over the pads of the star to hold it in place while I soldered everything together.Getting 2.2 amps at the taillcap with a panny PF cell.Not too far off from what I wanted, I’ll try a samsung20r later and see what it draws.I think I’m just gonna call this one done for now.
I’ve had the LED- touch the pill inside, shorting it to direct drive. If you’ve insulated the connecting pads from the reflector, look inside and make sure the driver itself is clear.
I’ve run an XP-G2 on a copper star well up over 4A with no issues, around 4.5A if I recall correctly. They are kinda difficult to push that hard, as the Vf rises with the current flow to levels that a single cell light don’t like reaching.
If you’ve got a low voltage driver in it now, going to a 20R is not going to show you any real improvement. The driver is limiting current. The Panny has 50% more capacity and would be the better choice over a 20R in a light such as that.
I have a P60 with dedome XPG2 at 3.5A from TomE. Definitely doable and can last quite a few minutes from a Samsung 20R. It grows hot slower than I would expect.