Custom 12V LED bulbs

Just want to show off my latest project.
I recently bought myself a 1979 camper trailer that was completely original.
It had 12V light fixtures with BA15S and 41mm Festoon bulbs.

I wanted to change them out to LED to minimize power usage when I’m camping, but finding any LED bulbs that looks decent with a good CCT, tint and preferrably high CRI is quite difficult from my experience. I’d go so far to say it’s impossible.

Being a fan of rngwn’s 5mm LEDs, I started thinking of 3D printing bulbs with these LEDs in them. So by measuring and doing a couple of prototypes, I made these bulbs:


This was the first project, replacing a 10W incandescent BA15S bulb. I went with four 2300k >95CRI 5mm LEDs in series, drawing 20mA each when input power is at 13,5V with a 120Ω resistor.
The “optic” is 3D printed transluscent PETG.
It’s basically just a holder for the LEDs, with a 0,2mm bottom layer as the lens to give them a bit more flood.
I am pretty happy with these. Unfortunately no comparison pictures between original and new here, but the next bulb will do justice showing off the light color of these LEDs:


These are 5W incandescent 41mm Festoon bulbs, and I also went with four 2300k >95CRI 5mm LEDs in series here.

I am really happy with how these turned out.
The end-caps are salvaged from other LED bulbs bought online that had a horrible color to them. They are press-fit onto the end of the body, with the negative LED pin and a resistor on the positive side jammed in-between the cap and the body. No soldering to the end-cap needed. Printed in the same transluscent PETG.


Closeup of the bulb.


Backside, basically just soldered in series and with a 120Ω resistor at the positive.
Simple and quick to make. Each bulb takes about 10 minutes to print on a Prusa i3 MK3 at 0.2mm layers.
This side can be hot-glued to make them sealed, but I chose to keep mine open for now. No worries when they’re used in indoor fixtures.


Here’s a comparison of the bare bulbs, WB @4000K
The LEDs are actually slightly warmer than the incandescent, but not as noticeable in person. Brightness is about the same from the front, but the incandescent looks brighter because of the bloom.
I’m considering sanding the front of the LEDs to give them a bit more flood in these fixtures.


Comparison with the cover on. Incandescent at the top, LED at the bottom.


From the side…


Made ten of them, eight in one go. Pretty fun! Probably going to do this for the bulbs in my old cars too.


Here’s the result!

Now, for energy comparison: I had ten 5W and two 10W bulbs in the camper. In total they had a current draw of about 4.63A in 12,5V. That’s about 58W. There were probably some voltage drop in the cabling and fixtures.

With the new LEDs it all has a power draw of… 0.2A in 13V. That’s a hilarious 2,6W.
22,3 times less power, but still lighting the camper up like it did before… almost, overall brightness is slightly lower, but that’s just a plus.

I’m going to refine these STL files and post them on Printables and Thingiverse, stay tuned for the link. I will provide all different standard lengths of Festoon bulbs, with a fitting amount of LEDs. Note that these 2300k LEDs are 2mm shorter than regular LEDs, so regular LEDs will protrude a bit more out of the shell.

Cheers!

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I thought about designing my own BA15S Red for my 3rd brake light.
The one’s I got on AliExpress just don’t last.

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VERY clean! Nice job.

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Well done.

There are some places on AliExpress that sell warmer white LED bulbs for cars- but they’re not easy to find.

Here’s one example of a T10 bulb 4500K (I’ve had sitting in my cart for quite a while) 2x t10 w5w 4500 LED Innen beleuchtung 8smd canbus kein Fehler Kofferraum lampen Lese lampe LED-Begrenzung leuchten 12v k warmweiß - AliExpress 34

and 4000K festoon bulbs 2X Girlande Led C5W 31 36 39 41mm Auto Lichter Canbus 7020SMD Dome Licht 12V 4000K 6000K Warm Weiß Kristall Blau Kennzeichen Lampe - AliExpress 34

But high CRI I doubt you’d ever find that.

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Thanks!

Indeed, and I’ve tried these. Unfortunately the tints on these are often in the green-blue ish spectrum, and they are really bright.

Some of these have Canbus resistors to use the same amount of power as an incandescent, and they get hot and start to flicker after a while. I usually just snip off the Canbus resistors (they’re just in parallel with the positive and negative)

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The resistors they put on often don’t increase the current enough anyway. I’ve got a 2016 Ford and it spits the dummy at most brands of headlight or signalling LED replacements as the Body Control Module still registers the current as too low.

I have contemplated pulling apart some of the old hideous 6500K LED car bulbs I’ve collected over the years and doing an LED upgrade to something decent. Some of them have decent driver circuits in them that cater for wide voltage ranges.

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Nah, too much V, not enough R. Those blubs are gonna be reeeeeally sensitive to voltage. My old car would start at 14.5V when just turned on, slide down to 14.0V or so after a while, and of course when turned off for a while would settle down to about 12.0V or so.

Assume 3V for each LED, 4 in series is 12.0V. So when parked a while, current will be almost nothing, just a tailing of current waaaay down at the “knee” voltage.

It’ll be fine at 13.8V like you “tuned” it to.

If the alternator starts off high as mine used to, say, 14.5V, you’ll be putting maybe half more current through them.

When I did my own on perfboard with a bunch of 5mm bipin LEDs (dome light, so plenty of room), I used 3 in series in each string. So 9V or so, would be decent output from 12V through 15V, centered around 13.5V.

You might want to use a current regulator in series, or a low-dropout voltage regulator and post-regulator resistor to regulate LED current.

Meanwhile, hotwire bulbs will start glowing decently at 4V-6V or so, brighten slowly to their specced voltage (usually 14V for “12V” bulbs), and even handle overvoltage pretty decently.

This is a camper trailer with its own solar charge controller that tops the battery at 13.5V, the voltage won’t be any higher.
I get your concern though, thanks for the input!

These LEDs can be overdriven without issues, I’ve run them 24/7 at 40mA in a string light for this Christmas season. The forward voltage for each LED is 2,7V.
I’ve tried to adjust the voltage from 12V to 14V and the brightness difference isn’t huge. Definitely good enough for its application.

I could add a voltage regulator for the light circuit if it becomes any issue later on, keeping it at 13,5V at any time even if the battery voltage drops down to 12V.

If you could isolate the wiring that only goes to the lights, you can use a small buck/boost converter to take a wider voltage-range and convert it up/down to a constant 13.5V, Just In Case.

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Indeed, that’s possible! I have buck/boost converters laying around. All of the original wiring is used for lights only. Any other loads are going to be wired with its own circuits.

I’ve used cheap voltage/ current regulator circuits off AliExpress to drive LED’s off 12V.

They don’t get warm, which says to me they’re not wasting power. I’ve got a 12V solar powered security light system that’s been up for many years now- there are two lights running XHP50 's (6V). They’re set up running off those regulator circuits, and operate automatically coming on at dusk and off at dawn everyday.

It’s so cool…
i see 3D printing…
also the cover part for the electrical contact are so shiny!
Very very nice!

Wow, good job! Looks really nice!

I bought a few of these some time ago (I don’t remember if it was the same seller because it was a long time ago). Unfortunately mine came standard cold white ones 6500k, and really awful CRI.
I tried multiple w5w LED bulbs for the interior of my car, and all of them were really bad. They get me tired really fast. I quickly got back to the standard bulbs unfortunately - I find the light really nice, not tiring. I wish I could find high CRI LED warm (or at least neutral 5000k) white ones…

Thanks guys!

Yeah that’s the unfortunate reality of buying LED bulbs for cars… I have no idea how many bulbs I’ve tried throughout the last ten years, in search of something that looks like the original incandescent bulbs, or at least has a good neutral white tint.

I’m sure I’ve bought over thousand bulbs in total, and those I just made absolutely crushed all of them in CCT, CRI and tint. I wish I had thought of this sooner, as I’ve had my 3D printer for about 6 years now, and the 2300K LEDs for 5 years. I also have other LEDs:

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Just tried to sand down the LEDs with my bench grinder, and it worked great! Light is a bit more soft and diffused now.

I sanded down the ones in the wall fixtures, but kept the clear dome on those over the kitchen counter and in the ceiling by the entrance. Those benefit from the more throwy beam to not create unnecessary glare. The fixtures help smooth them out a bit.
I tried to take a picture of the difference between original and sanded in the fixtures, but it’s so hard to see the difference on the camera.

Next project is probably doing the exterior lights front and rear, and wire them to be able to light them up from the internal battery with a switch and diode.
That way I can have nice parking lights, for easier outdoor walking at night when taking a piss…

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I ordered these ones in warm white recently and they are as described- not 6500K:

Thanks a lot! I just ordered some. I hope they will be good :slight_smile:

I hope you like them too. They are brighter than your normal halogen T10 bulb, so hopefully that isn’t a problem?

I will use them mostly for interior lightning, so no problem if they are brighter :slight_smile:

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