Thanks for the response. I highly doubt a thicker pub would be an issue for anyone. Not a problem for me.
It's all relative.. 1.2mm compared to what? What was it before? I think Nanjg/Qlites are 1.5mm, so 1.2mm is still thinner? As long as you are close to typical stock drivers, it should be fine. Thinner than Nanjg's by that much should be still an improvement.
Retaining rings might not make contact with the ground ring in some instances. Not a bit deal as it’s an easy fix.
So I don’t think it’d matter. 1.2 should work fine unless I’m just missing something…again.
The driver has arrived.
And I has rigged it for testing:
I hope to test in the weekend.
I will be testing it with a SST50 led, I have not decided if I will risk an XML2 led on it (Maybe I need to get some XML2 on copper). On the other hand my current XML2 test led has already survived 5A, the risk is probably not that great.
You should be all right with a 5A driver. 
I’ve run one direct from every type of cell I have, including Sony C4 and C5 and Samsung 20R and 25R, as long as the XM-L2 is on copper it handles these cells just fine even in a direct wired set-up.
...but HKJ's XM-L2 isn't on copper.. :steve:
It will live despite not being on copper. Relax.
Just saw this thread for the first time. Looks pretty awesome. I’ve been wanting some non-PWM drivers for a long time. Sounds like it has a fair amount of space in the ROM too, for more interesting firmware.
Any chance you might release firmware sources too, for us to modify? 
Looking forward to the results.
HKJ I would love to see the driver tested on a XM-L2, can I gift you a noctigon XM-L2 U2 for your tests? Let me know
I will test with both leds and hope the XM-L2 survives. I do not want to wait two weeks to get a new led, but for the future I will have to locate some XM-L2 on copper stars.
Just say the word. They can come at you via Richard here or through Intl-Outdoor, drop shipped to your door.
Look like mtnelectronics only ships to US and intl-outdoor is sold out in 20mm U2 version.
I’ll talk to him, pay for em, and you can just provide an address to Richard.
Is this driver listed as something besides LD-1 on Intl-Outdoors?
I see 18 drivers there and don’t see this one.
Would this work well in a BTU Shocker host?
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1818
Off topic:
Would a 60 Watt Weller temp controlled (700 & 800 degree F tips) soldering station work OK for reflowing LED’s?
- It's not for sale anywhere yet. a Handful have been sent out for early ALPHA/BETA testing.
- no, will not work well in a Shocker, at least not how a stock Shocker is configured for 3 LED's in series, 3 cells in series.
- I use hot air or a frying pan to reflow, though I've used on occasion a soldering iron - no the best method. Not familiar with the 60 Watt Weller...
Thank you for the info about the LD-1 driver.
I misread the comments so I re-read them.
Talking about stars with LED’s to be sent to people who already have the driver.
Thanks for the series info on the shocker.
I didn’t see that info anywhere.
Might be good for my HD 2010 or X3.
I did find that you use the IOS driver, but I don’t think (I’m told that quite often) I want to go that far.
I’d change my name to Newbie, but I think someone else already has that.
If the LCK-LED site ever comes back up I’ll find a driver for the BTU shocker unless you know someone who would like to sell the stock or Dry driver.
Soldering station:
http://www.amazon.com/WTCPT-Temperature-Controlled-Soldering-Station/dp/B00004W463/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t
except mine’s 30 years old and built in a metal box painted USN gray.
Updated to OP in my review thread with this:
Current Controlled medium mode vs. a PWM medium mode
To compare to a Nanjg PWM based driver, I measured the LD-1 in medium mode at 1.13A against a medium mode in a 12x350 7135 PWM driver in the same flashlight (HD2010).
LD-1 turbo mode configured, medium mode 1.13A @tail, lumens: 483 @start, 479 @30secs
Nanjg 4.2A driver (measured 4.34A @tail), medium mode: 1.32A @tail, lumens: 381 @start, 371 @30secs
*** the LD-1 is 29% brighter, even though it is running on 14% less power. I'd say this proves how really poor PWM modes are on a higher powered light, and how efficient true current controlled regulation is.