Many of you may recall that I worked with Gearbest.com to find the original quality Yinding bike light. After that, some of us at MTBR tried to take that design, which had some great features, improve on it and take it to the next level. The hope was to create a quality budget light that is better than anything out there. A light with good thermal transfer, neutral LEDs and all around good build quality and parts.
Unfortunately, the last attempt was hampered by the need to reach a presale amount that was lofty and not worth the effort. Add in Yinding not wanting to really take our ideas and build a new light.
Well, Good news! Gearbest finally has the green light to build a custom light without needing a presale commitment and someone to build it. They asked me to write the forums and start the conversation on what to build. I started a thread on MTBR (Custom light people, the time is now! | Mountain Bike Reviews Forum) and wanted to get feedback here since you guys know lights and there are a lot of riders here.
So what do you think? Where should we start? Triple? Double? I know the standards like neutral LEDs, programmable drivers and thermal transfer are must.
-options for mounting different optics. When running multiple light heads I like having more throw on some of the leds.
-remote switch option(possible for multiple lightheads?).
serviceable (spares available,moddable)
Something that could mount on the frame head tube instead of the handlebars. With it on the handlebars the light is always jerking around left to right. With it mounted on the head tube of the frame, the light would be much more stable.
With a nice flood you could see where you were turning just fine. Include a second light for more spot. The flood could act as a low beam and the spot the high. Remote switch mounted on the handlebars, and a waterproof dual or quad 18650 battery pack that you could change out the batteries easily.
edit… you could also have a red tail light that would run off the same battery pack
Not a rider but I’ve seem a lot of mention of unwanted mode switching over bumps when the cells lose contact momentarily. My A6 is sensitive to that so I know what a pain it can be!
Lots of different uses but often ride switchbacks where if the only light is on the bike you can see past the switchback to pick up your line when it’s rough. A helmet mount always puts light where your eyes want it. I use both anyway, bar medium floody, helmet spot. Remote switch on the bars, remote switch on the shoulder strap of my hydro. Both with separate power supplies. Needs vary greatly, a good set up should be flexible.
Quality mounting, not rubber bands
Twin emitters, with changeable optics
Neutral white
Quality battery pack or box for 18650’s
Low profile for helmet mounting
Nitefighter BT21 style
Remote mode change I think Tigris99 did one
Under $75 USD with battery pack
One last thought- as an option foam lined carry / storage box
Get RMM to build you the driver, with components up to spec — avoid the “some of them work fine” problem from having corners cut here and there on parts, production moved to cheaper suppliers midstream, and so on. Just take it for granted China is China and get what they do well and not the rest.
Get some of the production made as a host — so people can get emitters and driver that will be higher reliability.
Search on “temperature sensor” here and consider some of the problems described implementing them so far — there are suggestions of components recently becoming cheap enough to incorporate that haven’t made it into production yet, somewhere in those discussions.
If the light will overheat sitting still, as a good bike light probably should do:
— make it shut down or shut off when it’s not moving
— if it’s ramped down, let it ramp back up as you get moving again and move faster
I’ve always thought a housing that would take two standard P60 dropins would be ideal.
Supply a range of dropins or let users build their own. Neutral tints a must.
Remote battery pack with user fitted cells. 2S (8.4V) or 1S (4.2) option.
Good quality quick release mount with remote switch option.
Here is the list that I sent to GearBest and was approved
Case Design:
A small triple LED light, with good cooling and thermal transfer. Deep fins around the case for cooling and a thick shelf to attach the LED plate to. An easy to remove front cover with strong screws and thick square threads on the screws to ensure the screws won’t strip or come loose.
Case should easily accept optics of different degrees from spot to flood. Specifications to follow.
A minimal amount of material should be removed from case to allow thermal transfer from the LEDS to the case for cooling and providing a solid backing for the LED plate.
Emitters:
Neutral LED 4700K & Cool White
Real Cree LEDs not copies
User switchable optics, no reflectors.
XPL-HI NW LEDs and 10 degree optics
Programmable Driver:
Thick gauge wire to reduce power loss.
Little or no PWM flicker at lower power levels
Short click to go up and a longer press to go down a level.
Raised Button on top, easily pressed with gloves.
Remote:
Wired or Wireless (preferred), removable.
Mount
Gopro style mount or solid screw mount. No rubber band mount
I respectfully suggest you specify something specific more specific than “good” cooling.
I’m sure they will promise you “good” cooling and tell you what you got is “good” cooling.
Ask the driver people about thermal sensors — placed to detect the LED temperature rather than somewhere inside the housing, and how to have the driver respond. Do you want a light that can be extremely bright in movement, but will reduce brightness when you stop moving, because it needs moving air to remove heat? Or one that never gets bright/hot enough that it needs moving air for temperature control? How hot do you want to allow the inside and outside case to get?
Where do these other optics come from?
Is the driver programmable?
Are the cooling fins facing the direction of airflow. Many bike lights have fins like flashlights.
Temperature regulation would be awesome, is it possible for this light?