Custom step-down buck 21mm driver for Skilhunt & Convoy H1 headlamps.

Normal bad. FR4 PCB material is fiberglass with a flame retardent mixed into the resin. Typically it is a bromine-based flame retardant, which has a low toxicity.

A bunch more info here (page 8 in particular):

I would imaine if someone dug around enough, considering PCB trimming is a fairly common practice, that there are EPA or OSHA documents on permissible exposure to FR4.

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Disclaimer: I have literally no idea what I’m doing. Use at your own risk. These files might make your flashlight explode or something.


I doubt anyone but me will ever use these, but I spent a little more time trying to update these configs for use with the current Anduril 2 codebase:
* They now more resemble other, newer configs (in terms of certain functions/variable definitions).
* They now compile without warnings (related to the above).
* Party Strobe works again (I hadn’t noticed, but it wasn’t working when using the configs in my prior post).

The only issue I’ve noticed is that SMOOTH_STEPS seems kinda weird. Probably related to OPAMP_ON_DELAY/noflash? I don’t care because I don’t use SMOOTH_STEPS.

Edit: Refer to the below post for further updated configuration files.

Probably MCU configured in hwdef.h to run slower. Set it to original CLKCTRL_PDIV_2X_gc.
-Updated OP Anduril.hex file
Can you please share latest > “V.816” hex file ?

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Not to detract from this thread, but swapping out the LED is easier than swapping out your driver in your mini 2. You’ll have it done in about 20 minutes. You can also try some minus green filter

These look great nice design. Now there is a way to get a better UI on most of the available Headlamps. The better efficiency is a bonus.

Isn’t that the file that’s attached to your original post?

I mean more then V.816 ; 817> 816 ;))

Oh, you mean the hex file that was produced by my modified configs? That was in the .zip file which was linked in my post (located at anduril/hex/anduril.quad-skilbuck.hex).

I can just directly attach it, but remember — like I already said — I have no idea what I’m doing. This might make your flashlight explode for all I know:
anduril.quad-skilbuck.hex (27.0 KB) Edit: Refer to the below post for an updated hex file.


I had changed that section to mcu_clock_speed(); which was copied from another config that used to contain _PROTECTED_WRITE( CLKCTRL.MCLKCTRLB, CLKCTRL_PDIV_2X_gc | CLKCTRL_PEN_bm );. This is essentially all I have done: look at changes to other configs and copy them over. Probably in some cases it may not be apropriate.

OK. But remove #define OPAMP_DELAY 80 its not for this hardware . Because it make preflash even more noticeable ;))

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Yeah, I had guessed it was related to that; I will remove it.

And drop fixed hex here again , ill move it to OP, thanks

Here’s a new .zip file with the noflash/OPAMP_DELAY stuff removed from the configs.

Here’s a new .hex file with those changes:
anduril.quad-skilbuck.hex (27.0 KB)

This .hex file was produced by using the above configuration files along with the most current version of Anduril 2 (cbfc1a1), as of the time of this post.


If you want to add this to your OP, please test it and/or look carefully at my changes, since, like I keep saying, I don’t really know what I’m doing. :sweat_smile:

I posted this stuff here in case it was of any use, but I wasn’t really imagining it would be “officially” added to your first post.

Looks like LVP do not work and Aux led settings. :grin: Thanks for trying .

It will be several days before I can mess with this further, but what issues do you have with aux settings? They seem to be working for me.

Are these compatible with the Skilhunt H150?

Nope

I assume that the reason for this was that in this commit voltage was changed to “an 8-bit value. ... Volts * 40.”

The config file is defining custom values for VOLTAGE_RED and VOLTAGE_LOW. Either multiplying them by four, or just using the default values will probably fix the LVP.

The default voltages for RED and LOW are 3.3 and 2.9, while the ones defined in the config are 2.7 and 2.6. Was the reason for this to… get a bit more use out of a battery? Or, is there another reason that the driver needs those values?

Yep, why not. All modern batts can go down to 2.5V. RED turns on Aux led, LOW starts stepdowns and turns off light.

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If you get a second batch, I’d like one as well. 3, actually.

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Alright. Ordered some more. This time painted white. Expect it in 2-3 weeks.

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