For now. I noticed that the shavings are accumulating again?! I wonder if its a matter of the titanium being a harder metal than copper and thus the rubbing action from on/off resulting in shavings. Lubrication thus becoming essential to minimize friction/wear.
posts #10 and #20 above, explain in more detail, how I cleaned more than once, to prevent new shavings from being formed…
One of the times the FW3A got delayed, it was because Lumintop switched to a spring which had a brittle coating that cracked when the spring moved, then flaked off and caused shorts.
Metal shavings / flakes seem to be relatively common from many brands, so it’s a good idea to clean each new light pretty thoroughly, but I doubt many people do.
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In the case of the CuTi TS10, the copper head was not clearanced… it arrives in relatively raw condition and has not been mated to the Ti threads, nor then cleaned after clearancing
this is creating a unique problem w CuTi TS10 as there are larger than normal amounts of metal shavings being greated when the user opens and closes the light…
I recommed removing the body O ring, and the battery, and then spend some time working the Head and Body threads together, at various angles, both pulling and pushing the parts together, until no more gritty sensation and metal shavings are produced. Do this with lube, so the shavings dont fall in the gap between the head and driver. Then wipe out all the contaminated lube and repeat.
It took me 3 cleaning, relubing and twisting cycles to get to the state where no more copper flecks were appearing on the Ti threads
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IMO shouldn’t it be the job of the manufacturer not the end user?
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Its a $10 light. There is no satisfaction guarantee here.
I mean, it’s still a product geared towards general users. Buy a light, get metal shavings and short-circuits for free! Doesn’t seem like a very responsible sales pitch, LOL.
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yes… there is a problem with the copper heads
yes the copper heads should have been fitted, clearanced, and cleaned, before delivery, but they were not, so I created this thread to alert members to the cause of the problem, and to share the fix
those on the forum and reading this thread, can solve the problem themselves, if they are willing
others can file a warranty claim and receive either a refund or a replacement (and it may still need the head clearanced and cleaned)
hopefully this omission in the fitment and finishing of the copper head threads will be rectified before shipping in future runs
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Much appreciate this thread… I’ll be doing a thorough “teardown” of the head when mine gets here.
As for the updated firmwares these days - soft start and smooth-steps are - to me - the most gorgeous updates to A2. Makes my cheap lights feel like they’re running some kind of primo UI, even though I know that’s only in my mind!
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Thanks for the PSA. Fortunately mine did not have the problem. Threads clean and smooth, no metallic debris anywhere.
In fact, in another thread they were discussing whether the Ti would wear out the Cu threads. I tightened and loosened the head 30 times and inspected for any indication of wear. Expecting some copper to be visible if wear was going to be a problem over time. Even with 50X magnification I found no trace of copper on the Ti threads.
I lubed it up and called it good.
So hopefully the observed problem was a “one off” production issue.
I know of at least FOUR reports of CuTi with issues due to copper shavings
very glad to hear yours is not one of them
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Yeah, for a change I guess I got lucky.
You notice I said
“So hopefully the observed problem was a “one off” production issue”.
Obviously not.
LOL, Hope Springs Eternal
Trust but Verify 
It’s weird how much difference it makes, no? I flashed some old lights I hadn’t used in years, and suddenly they feel new again… just because of a short little animation which lasts a fraction of a second.
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Completely agree… I wouldn’t have ever thought so until I tried it, but I feel like it’s probably the nicest change since A1 became A2. Not at all downloading any of that work, but it’s just this little finishing touch that elevates the experience for me.
Much respect and appreciation for all the work you do - I can barely fathom the skills it takes to follow the gist of it most of the time!
I really like the soft start and stop. I like the ability to use the aux emitters for voltage and temperature check even more.
This has saved my eyes so many times now that it uses the aux.
It’s fantastic.
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Another report of metal in the head of a TS10 causing the tailswitch to be non responsive… (the issue is in the head, not the tail:
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Here is a report of a non working CuTiTS10 with an excellent video:
And another report of Wurkkos excellent customer service, plus a fix for a non working body and tail:
One question, I read that there is the Aux rgb on the titanium model but I don’t know if you can choose the color in anduril or it is just a random rgb mode disk mode (the random rgb mode I don’t like).
Thank you.
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Yes. It’s not a disco RGB like that earlier TS10. It’s normal Anduril RGB aux which can be whatever color the user wants. By default, it shows the battery charge level.
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