When I turned it on it started at a low output of about 20 lumens… after a few moments it suddenly went to Turbo. I turned it off and removed and inspected the head for any metal shavings that might have fallen between the pill and the head.
I found a large number of copper shavings, along with a rather long titanium shaving, collected in one of the grooves in the head. I could not see any shavings between the edge of the pill and the head.
I cleaned everything with alcohol, and relubricated. The problem did not reoccur
My guess is the metal shaving that caused the short was near the end of the body tubes, and it moved away from the contact ring on the pill, when I unscrewed the light. The metal shavings collected adhering to the lube in the copper head.
The threads just needed to be cleaned. The light is working Great now.
I lowered the ceilings to 110/150, which is about 430 lumens, and disabled Turbo. I also set the Aux to Low Brightness to save power.
btw, the bezel has no branding, and the clip came separately in the box (I dont plan to use it and am glad not to have any scratches from it)… Im very pleased w the host.
after working the head and body threads together to clearance the thread contact surfaces, and then wiping clean w alcohol:
The main issue is that the copper head has a wide tolerance to the body threads, so there is wobble until reaching the O ring. But now that the body and head have been rotated back and forth together at every wobble angle… things are pretty smooth…
It might not be the same version/material, but this topic/thread is a good reminder for me to first check my brass TS10 for shavings, when I recieve it. Thanks for the “heads up”!
It’s funny that this kind of quality is completely unacceptable to the general public, yet us tinkerers goes like ‘yeah yeah no problem, I just completely disassemble the thing, solder here and there, sand this down, polish that and put it back together. It’s a good light!’
For normal consumer, this would be a warranty claim and a loss to company’s profit and reputation.
This is also the reason why I will keep buying Convoy lights for my own tinkering and use, but will never gift one to anyone else. I had to modify / fix almost all my Convoy lights to make them work acceptably.
My TS10V2 CuTi arrived yesterday. When ever I opened the head and closed it again, it did a factory reset. I could see a few dark kind of spots, on the thread, but no metal debris. While flashing it to Rev 812, I cleaned threads and driver with alcohol, and greased the threads with 760G. When I closed it and started it again, the effect was gone. Has not done this again, since.
Congrats on your firmware update. What feature benefits did you seek to gain by reflashing?
I have not felt any need to reflash, even though I am fully set up to do so. The lowest mode is ridiculously low… I honestly dont think I would ever need a lower floor. And I have not thought of anything else this light needs to be able to do.
Exactly!
I love my CuTi TS10! It is a Great Little Light!
all I had to do was unscrew the head from the body, remove the battery, and then screw it back together, working the threads against each other to remove any contact points that created copper shavings…
I did that, with lubrication, so that the shavings are caught in the lube, then wiped out the lube and replaced it with fresh clean lube, 3 times.
The light is working Great! I Love the color rendering from the CSP 4000K LEDs too!
Yes I am a Tint Snob, and if I compare CSP to my personal favorite LEDs, sw45k and DD 519a 4500K, then I can definitely appreciate the difference in Tint DUV…
But that in no way means there is anything inherently wrong w the stock 4000K CSP LEDs.
Tint Snobbery is just my way of staying entertained and enthused about the TS10… I really do love this little host!
For under $50 I have a really nice full featured Anduril light with RGB Aux.
I like to have all my Andúril lights on the same rev level. With different revisions on some of the lights things tend to get messy, somehow. I also run all my Hank Lights and my FW3A copper, my X9L copper, and my FW21Pro brass on rev.812. I like the post-off-voltage feature, colored channel blinking, and also soft start.
… and, by the way, on all of them I have configured simple mode in such a way that it does what I want - and I run them all in simple mode. I do not need them to help me win a war, or defend myself, or play thunderstorm. The worst thing in advanced mode for me is momentary mode, which you cannot terminate other than with power cutoff. That kind of put me off, repeatedly.
thanks for sharing your reasons, glad your lights are set up consistently and to your liking
that is already present in the shipping version of TiTS10, no firmware update needed for that particular feature
I turn off the post off voltage aux, because I use my light on my nightstand. When I turn off, I only want steady Dim Red Aux, not a color changing Bright Aux light show… lol
fortunately for me, Anduril has the option to turn off the Disco Voltage Aux. This new feature default is the most common complaint from confused new adopters.
and also soft start.
I have not tried that… glad you like it
and yes, 5C Momentary is a very aggravating feature… I have no use for it either and imo it should use 5H so that it would not be hit accidentally when meaning to lock the light w 4C.
same with mine… I then relubricated, and with battery removed I turned the head against the body threads at multiple angles, w the O ring removed, in order to shave away any other contact points…
then wipe out the contaminated lube, and relube clean
