Damned SK98 switches! Looking for high current replacements

[Barkuti]

Fellows, recently finished a custom high powered SK98 build featuring H1-A boost driver (at 3.23A max emitter current) and dedomed XHP50A emitter.

Problem is it is eating switches for lunch. The stock (piece of shite) switch died in less than 5 minutes, literally. This is something I was expecting as they also die soon at stock current. Replaced the switch with a piece from a pogo kit I bought from old Kaidomain, the onboard switch looks like this one:

http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/switches/S024498-DIY-LED-Flashlight-Reverse-Clicky-Switch-14_8mm-x-9_6mm-for-LED-Flashlight

These work well in stock powered SK98s, but not in my SK9v8. Gave a try to a first one, later bypassed its spring and soon it died. I though “mmm, maybe the soldering damaged it”. For the second one, set in activated state, I used low temperature solder to stick the spring to the switch terminal, and funny thing is it either came stock welded ON or God knows what happened LoL. Next one I did the same thing, making sure it was OFF this time before soldering. Took the flashlight for a night walk and used it for a while. All seemed good but, it has started to behave erratically. I think the problem is they can't handle the current (7+A).

Do you have any recommendation? Preferably from Kaidomain, as I have a pending order with the above switches I am going to cancel. The classic Omten 1288 can fit inside, with a bit of hot glue to fit the spare space for example. Any other recommendation?

Cheers ^:)

[nottawhackjob]

Screw the switch. Maybe make it into a tail cap twisty?

[Barkuti]

Tail cap twisty, nottawhackjob? A bit further explanation will no doubt help.

If I could get some sort of tiny latching switch, and I mean tiny, a MOSFET tail switch would be doable, I believe.

Cheers ^:)

[nottawhackjob]

A past discussion……

Why Bypass The Tail Switch?

I’m still trying to understand the theories behind a lot of what you longtime modders do, so I have a question; in what circumstances is it good to bypass the tail cap switch? I’ve only tried it once before on a BLF EE X6 triple that Nitro (patiently) helped me with, and am wondering if I should do it more often. Is there a certain amperage that makes it beneficial? Should it be done on all direct drive lights? (single and multi-emitters) Is there a right and wrong side of the clicky to use t…

[Firelight2]

Maybe purchase some Judco 10 amp switches, chop off the unneed parts of the housing, and see if you can shoehorn them into your Sipik?

[Cereal_killer]

Here’s how I solved the plastic press in tail issue.Also check a page or so back for me doing nearly the same thing on a Zuseray

What did you mod today?

Not getting my fill of moddong on the rook’s head this morning I also fixed up an sk98 that had a good driver & led but suffered from another plastic press in tail. Couldnt find a suitable retainer ring to do this one like I did the Zuseray a couple weeks ago so back out came the Cu sheet and shears for round 2. Huge shout out to Old Lumens, his willingness and unhindered ability to take on the big projects with only hand tools is one of the things that made me realize I could try it too! Seri…

That’s my post in the what’d you mod today thread but since it’s showing the work on the exact light you’re asking about I thought I would go ahead and post the images in here too.