Dead Goat in the great white north

Hello BLF,

My screen name is Dead Goat because it is the name of a bar in Salt Lake City that I like.

I am not exactly a flashaholic I have a stainless steel worm, and a Fenix LD01.

In my spare time I volunteer for a children’s dance performance company by building props for them. Which brings me to my question:

I would like to start putting LED effects into the stage props. So I am looking for some tech assistance on proper circuits.

So based on what I know now I am thinking about 2 LEDs in parallel with a DC to DC buck driver.

Mini DC-DC Converter Voltage Stabilizer/Regulator Module Max 3A draw
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1253701

Cree XM-L2 T5-5B1 10W 995LM 4000-4200K Neutral White LED 1000ma
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1425003

Samsung ICR18650, 4.35V 2800mAh Protected Rechargeable Li-Ion Batteries (2-Pack)

If I wire 2 batteries in series the output would be approx. 7 volts to the buck, The voltage and current will be limited by the buck to 3.7v and 2000ma as measured with a multimeter (which I didn’t want to buy but since the buck is adjusted with a POT is seems this is required.) Then the LED’s follow the buck in parallel.

Just need a switch, and probably a heat sink.

Let me know if I should repost in another part of the forum.

Dead Goat

Have a pleasant time at this friendly forum, Dead Goat!

Ahhh thanks…that is pretty weird.

Don’t mind him Dead Goat, he thinks we’re normal. :open_mouth:
Welcome to the forum.

Compared to me, you are normal! :evil:

when I saw the title, I thought a goat finally died in canada because of the cold.

the interwebz says the bar is closed?

I can vouch for those LM2536 modules, I use them to charge my daughters 6vdc power wheels lead acid battery by regulating the voltage to 7.2vdc from a converted 400 watt ATX powersupply on the 12vdc rail (2.4vdc per cell) and then running it thru the ammeter on my multimeter, shut it down when the draw hits 3% of the 4AH (4000mAh batterys) so 120mA

They are current regulated, hit about 3.2~Amps at max…but the chip gets CRAZY hot…I even put a heatsink on it and that gets hot too

They are buck circuits though…you have to put at least 2vdc higher into it, it’s not a boost/buck circuit
LM2596 spec sheet

DX has 3A max boost modules
http://www.dx.com/p/navo-lm2577-dc-dc-booster-converter-red-294351
don’t know about icstation though
http://www.icstation.com/product_info.php?products_id=1621
This one has a display
http://www.dx.com/p/dc-dc-lm2577-0-45-3-digital-voltage-step-up-boost-module-deep-blue-301104
LM2577 spec sheet

This one is a good boost/buck in one (great for a solar charger) Set output volts and it auto adjusts independent of input
http://www.dx.com/p/dc-dc-converter-auto-step-up-step-down-solar-power-supply-module-red-151576
LM2577S + LM2596S dual chip

Ah I see you are going to regulate the series Li Ion down to 3.7vdc and feed two XM-L2’s in parallel…yeah that will work, but have to be careful the volts could drift without a full time output voltage measurement…those pots are pretty cheap, and there is no low voltage protection other than what is on the batteries…if they fail, you kill the cell
You don’t have to have a seperate multimeter, just add one of these .36 display voltmeter modules on the outputs, it will read down to 3~ vdc
Disregard the boost/buck unless you are looking for something like that