I find it quite expensive, compared to the 1504. But it looks nice, if it performs well i may consider buying it… waiting for your reports
i have one from yesterday.
it look like one smallsun c10 but feel c8
the glass is clear and the pill are long but alluminium.
it can handle a 20 mm star and can screw just like the jax z1 with treeth on the pill
i think its good for one dedome xpe2 also /red/green
the zoom in/out is good! with treeth without loose play and fast in/out
it come on a green outdoor plastik flashlight box (good+ point)
the loader and the battery are crap you know…good from a give away
Mine tracks to Ohio now. It will be interesting to compares it to the two Yezl t9s with short focal length lenses I have. They are beautiful but have some issues.
Teeth on the pill should give really good cooling.
It came today. Very nice! The lens is larger even than the very large one I have on a Yezl. It is much larger than the lens that came in my t20, which is now in my other Yezl t9. It has a blueish white XM-L and only draws 1.5 amperes, but it performs with my modified lights. Lots of nice thread on the tail cap, a clear image of the LED, nice shape though not as pretty as a Yezl, smooth zoom threads.
My new charger reads 95 mOhm for the included cell. It came charged to 3.8something volts and took 0.95 Ah to charge to 4.2 V. So it seems to be a usable cell, probably a used lap top pull. The “users manual” doesn’t say a lot, but is a nice touch. Nice box, I broke off the plastic lanyard joiner and tied a sheet bend knot.
It came in two envelopes, each with my name and address. The inner one says “United States” and has Chinese characters. The outer one says “priority mail, US postage paid, international bridge, e-VS” and “FROM:
DealExtreem, ATTN: Grant Zang, 1941 Davis Street, STE B UNIT 31, San Leandro, CA”
I’ll take a beam shot with other lights.
Sounds promising! I finally could not resist buying one as well (it is shipped out but who knows when it arrives...), my main worry was the size and quality of the lens, I'm glad to hear that it is good.
My SF-360 came today as well.
Same 2 packages: USA warehouse via Hong Kong… Still took 2 weeks to get to me.
My box also had a broken lanyard loop.
The lens is a little bigger than the T20 but I was really disappointed with the looseness of the head at mid-zoom.
Deep aluminum pill. It has a screw in deflector that I couldn’t quite convince myself that it wasn’t metal. Yet, it read zero ohm on the VOM. Probably an aluminum disk with a very heavy chromate. But it was right on top of the terminations. I put some Kapton on the MCPCB leads just because!
Mine read 1.75 amps with a freshly charged cell.
The focus would not quite reach a focused die at full zoom-out.
The beam is nearly identical to the T20 at broad beam.
I also didn’t see any solder between the pill and the driver. Could be inside the brass ring but none on the outside.
It fit all my batteries with ease.
This is the first charger I got with a EU plug. Not that I would ever bother to use it or even gift it.
The battery is on the opus for a full test. It said 2400mah… we’ll see.
$20 light for $28
I still need to decide which light get the red XP-E and a 1.05 amp driver.
This one is also too bright for a bike tail light even with a rubylith filter.
The Sing-fire cell tested out at under 1400mah. So it too is junk.
Here are, left to right and top to bottom, the new SingFire SF-360 http://www.dx.com/p/singfire-sf-360-900lm-5-mode-white-zooming-led-flashlight-w-cree-xm-l-t6-black-1-x-18650-338476#.VQNTTOEy2eM, a 1 x 26650 TrustFire 878 from Fasttech (which also came yesterday) https://www.fasttech.com/products/1864903 , and two CNQ hosts http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1957 with Ahorton 27.2mm Aspheric Glass Lenses http://www.illumn.com/ahorton-27-2mm-aspheric-glass-lens.html and dedomed LEDs, a “bargain” XM-L of unknown bin from Mountain Electronics and an XM-L2 S5 7d (as I remember). The camera is set for daylight white balance, and the wall is a bit yellowish. The two with longer focal length have their domes in tact, so the spots are comparable is size.
The batteries are different and the currents not measured. The CNQ lights have higher current drivers. The SingFire must have the best optical efficiency because it has a smaller focal length to diameter ratio than the TrustFire and the LED is not dedomed as those in the CNQs are.
I’ll probably change to a Qlite driver and a warm XM-L2, but maybe not dedomed. I don’t need any more throw.
Nice comparison Fritz :-) Everything is different about the four flashlights but you still get an impression.
Here’s a comparison of the two in pieces…
hey… i have make it on hour ago with the red xpe2 from intl-outdoors.
dedome on 20 mm noctigon with 2,4 Amp driver
very nice zoom focus.
the in/out is better than the uft20 with screw.
but you have the c10 smallsun for +–13$
The head on the T20 is a lot more stable. It uses a multi-start thread.
The SF-360 only has a single thread. At both ends it is stable, but in the middle, it rattles!
I was really hoping the SF-360 would be nicer since it also comes with red emitters.
In the end, the T20 is a nicer light. Brass pill, shorter, lighter and a better quality build.
It is not a sweeping win, but for my purposes, the T20 has a slight edge.
For me, the shape of the UF-t20 ruins it. Very good insides comparable to the CNQ and good lens, but I don’t want to hold it in my hand or look at it a lot. I haven’t taken the SF-360 apart yet, but the optics is the best I have, except for the Fresnel lens thrower, and the shape is quite nice, though not beautiful like the Yezl.
Agreed. My T20 is not to hold or look at… it is going to be strapped to the chainstays on my bike with twofish blocks.
If I could get T20 hosts for $12 it would be a done deal.
But I’m still holding out for a big head zoomy with 26650 like the 1504.
Here are the SingFire, above, and two modified Yezl t9s.
They all have new Panasonic cells charged to about 4 volts. The SingFire is drawing the least current and the big lens Yezl on the right the most. On the left is a warm white XM-L2 dome in tact with the lens from a UF-t20. The Yezl on the right has its original XM-L dedomed and a lens that is so big that the bezel ring won’t fit at all and it is glued in, with solvent glue so it can be removed easily. The lens was expensive, and it has a shorter focal length in the center and a longer one around the outside. Here is is focused as a compromise between these two lengths. Neither Yezl will head stand.
I started shuffling cells to get more equal currents but started to have reliabiltiy problems with the SingFire. An o-ring sticks out the bottom of the zoom head, and sometimes it won’t go on and other times won’t go off. Maybe the battery length and the switch.
Taking the head off, heat transfer is disappointing, though maybe not critical for such a big light, with normal currents. It is the body, as usual for twisties, that screws into the rear part of the head. As mentioned above, there is only one steep pitched groove and ridge thread with wide space between turns, and the fit is not snug. The pill looks like it came from a smaller light, rather than fitting the wide part of the head, as in the Yezl t9 and in smaller zoomies. The o-ring that cushions the zoom is on the body, and on mine it is coming off. So heat goes from the front of the pill to air, aided by a groove, and from the back of the pill to the body where it is threaded as usual. To get to the head, the heat has to then cross the loose fit between the body and head, aided by only a single steep thread. Heat sink compound between the body and head where they twist seems needed for high power, but from there it will work its way past the o-ring onto one’s fingers. This might be a good place to try my copper ship stock.
The always on problem seems to be the bottom a protected cell contacting metal around the (brass) pillar that covers the tail spring.
I like that the switch is separate, instead of integral with the tail spring. The metal piece screws in neatly to hold the switch and spring in place.
The always off problem seems to be inside the pill.
Does the driver come out by unscrewing or prying the brass ring?
The driver pried out, but it appears to have been soldered. Then the brass ring pried out.
Is that insulation around the positive contact? Anyone see how the driver works? Is that the usual FET and resistor bank, or something fancier?
It’s a 17 mm. driver in a 17 mm. (solid) pill. The ring takes up space and forms a more solid ground connection. A new driver can either use the ring or else sit way up in the pill and have a long spring.
It has a 16 mm. star in a 21 mm. space in the pill. It is fixed by the same white rubbery stuff and held in by a neat aluminum screw disc. It is not clear how the LED could have failed to be shorted out by the disk. The solder of both contacts is flattened on top! Apparently an insulating disc was omitted. Maybe that is why the driver failed. The LED works but the driver doesn’t.