Thanks for opening up that pill, Fritz. I was wondering if it had a coil.
Also nice to know there was some solder on that driver to brass ring interface.
Yes, I did note the disk. I did test the disk for continuity and I got a reading of zero, but didn’t trust that.
When I put the light back together, I added the Kapton thus…
Is there some mark on the disk now where it might have arced or sparked?
It looks like the brass ring is only pressed into the pill by about a millimeter, right?
I did have some trouble removing the screw in piece on the tail cap. The holes were too deep for my needle-nose pliers. Perseverance won out.
Holy Cow! Those little XP-E (not E2) are pretty darn bright at 1.05 amps. Definitely too bright for a bike tail light without a diffuser or sorts.
Today I rebuilt the SF-360 with some left over bits using the red XP-E with the aluminum MCPCB from MTN Electronics.
I had a junk 5 mode driver populated with 3x 7135 at 350ma/each.
I tested this build every step of the way. Somehow I was surprised it held up to the end. I did this with my usual 22awg solid wire method. I was able to keep the junction to the MCPCB below a little plastic XM-L spacer. I still put some Kapton on the back of the clamping disk just to be sure.
One deviation is that I used the Arctic Silver 5 this time. Normally I would use the AS epoxy but that is too permanent.
As to heat distribution, yes, the tube gets warm and the head stays cool. If your building a BTU shocker, something will have to give.
I didn’t expect to ever again see a circuit board that looked like they did when I was young, but this is the included charger:
Makes you wonder about the CE certification. Not an IC on it, let alone a micro processor. The components have all gotten up on legs and are walking around the board.
What is the diameter of the Singfire lens? Someone said it is a little bigger than the UF-T20 but how much bigger? Is it 42mm like the one in the Jax-Z1?
Amazing! (I like the screw pictures) It brings back warm memories from the seventies when I carried disposed colour tv's to the attick (made me strong, remember the weight of those?) for disassembly. I made huge speaker boxes with eight recovered speakers from various tv's and radio's (I demolished television sets back then that would be in a museum nowadays) with a combined impedance that must have been hard on the electronics of my poor little mono-radio (a Grundig 'Prima Boy 500' , still have it somewhere)
My main hands on electronics experience was with nuclear instrument modules. The first ones I used had all discrete components, but they started to be made with ICs later on. I mainly connected them, with coax., to make experimental equipment, sometimes as many as 60 in a system. I did make some small changes inside a few times, but drivers is now my main component level experience. We checked all the signals with vacuum tube oscilloscopes. In our office, we had a mechanical calculator, and there was another down in the lab. The lab had its own quarter million dollar computer, made of discrete transistors. The RAM memory size equaled 24 kilobytes of magnetic toroids.
When I was in high school, a class toured SDC in Santa Monica where the air defense system was developed. They led us around inside a vacuum tube computer and showed us its graphic user interface.
So that’s pretty close to the size of the aspheric in the Jax-Z1 (41mm usable diamater). Does the body of the flashlight accept a 26650 battery or only 18650?
That is a step back in time, love all the free space and the nice colors on the real resistors.
Don’t know why the CE cert would be a problem, components like this were made for decades without an issue. Here’s the thing, when you turn that board over, you have NO question as to where the traces are going to, or if a trace/solder joint is suspect.
That alone made fixing electronics of old fairly easy, the board gave you clues as to where to look.
Thanks for the great image!
What is the model of that charger?
Like to have one just to display that board.
Keith
I annealed some 0.1mm. (4 thou.) copper and epoxied it to the battery tube. I got the idea from someone who did this with a TrustFire Z8, but that was a slider I think the copper was not on the threaded part. It was hard to get it to fit and it is not very smooth turning.
I rubbed with dull tools and screwed the head on with no glue to shape it, the difficult part. Then I glued it without the head, wrapping it with string to hold it tight, until the epoxy set but was not hard. Then removed the string and screwed the head back on.
Based on the fact that it has a lens close to diameter to the Jax-Z1 I expect the throw of this flashlight to be very similar to that of the Jax-Z1. Has anyone taken any lux measurement with this flashlight either unmodified or modified (de-domed XP-G2 at 3A or higher)?
I received mine today and to my surprise it is not a slide system, it is a twisty system. I ordered mine from dxsoul.com although it was shipped from China. I thought this flashlight had a slide system, not a twisty. Has anybody else had the same “problem”?
You can see the twist grove in my image with the copper. Twist zoom has its advantages, but, as someone commented, it would be nicer if they used the whole area for several threads, instead of just one high pitched groove and ridge.
Just like with cars and women, it would be so nice if we could accumulate all the good features in one.
If you really want easy zoom, look at this thread: 3 X D cell X2 Zooming Light @ Tmart . There is one 3 x D and one 3 x AA with power zoom that stops automatically at max. throw and max. flood.
It is working now. I put in an XM-L2 T5 5d with dome intact and a Qlite driver.
The positive LED 22 gauge lead came off the driver after I soldered the driver to the brass ring. It took me quite a while to get around to unsoldering it to fix the wire.
It has about the same spot size as my CNQs with Ahorton lenses and dedomed LEDs. The rear of the sliding head does heat up now about as fast as the battery tube does. I think the fins interfere with the heat being conducted to the front of the sliding head.
The pressure plate did not fit over the thicker star and my solder connections until I turned it up side down. This probably reduces rings.
Right to left: SingFire, CNQ/Ahorton with S5 7d, stock TangsFire C8.
They all have Panasonic cells charged to about 3.85 V.
Dedoming made the 7d tint even warmer.
, still have it somewhere)
