You’re right, improving thermal conductivity anywhere wont change anything, something wrong with the driver board, maybe the MCU has a shorted pin and is overheating, maybe it’s deffective. In any case they should have sent you another light or full refund instead of a partial refund.
Are there already some more technical details available? For example:
- What is the max output in lumens?
- Is the LT1S Pro using a low efficient driver (FET), or a driver with a higher efficiency? In a multi LED setup, some are often using a boost driver, and the emitters in series and not in parallel → driver efficiency >= 90%
- What is the runtime on max?
Because we are having temperature regulation, it might be better to ask: - What is the current on max on a fully charged battery?
and then calculate the max runtime in theory - without temperature regulation.
I had an issue where my LT1S Pro stepped down while not that hot yet before, and it turned out the MCPCB was not making good contact with the top body (which provides the heatsinking) so the driver was hotter than the outside of the light. Took it apart when I updated the firmware, reseated the boards, and now the heat gets conducted into the top of the body better and it can hold turbo indefinitely without stepping down, where before it would step down to ~60% output over a few minutes without the body getting appreciably warm at all.
Minutes to step down? Not my case, I have seconds, like instantly, maybe 1-2s.
But thanks to Sofirn, they sent me a new light to replace the defective one.
Sofirn sent me new light for free. It works fine, no step down from turbo.
Now I use the flashlight almost every day and found that among the 5 modes presented, the one I would like the most is missing. Namely, warm + red. There are 2 modes of mixing the main color with red:
- A mixture of red red and 5000k with an adjustable level of red underflow up to, approximately, 30%
- automatic red mixing at low brightnesses, together with temperature change from warm to cold.
On the one hand, mode 2 is just what you need. But because of the terrible PWM at low brightness, my moonlight level is set to 15. At this brightness the lantern starts reddish and kind of warm, and if you raise it to the level of an average night light (20-50 lumens by eye), the light already looks 3500k and only slightly reddish. A much warmer hue is obtained if you just turn on 2700k.
So in other words, there is a lack of a mode warmer than 2700k (at the expense of red) that can shine at least at the level of a nightlight. Or, it would be great to have a red-warm-cold mode, so that the cold light would start not from level 2, but from level 76 (out of 150).
There are a couple options for getting what you want here.
-
Set the adjustable white mode to pure warm, then use the white+red mode (mode 5) to get a blend between warm and red.
-
Modify the code.
Personally, I’d go for option 2. In particular, edit the red-warm-cool mode to change the math a bit and draw different paths through the color space. For example, instead of a linear crossfade from red to cool, with a triangular up/down fade for warm in the middle… do two linear crossfades – one from red to warm, and one from warm to cool. Or maybe some other hybrid, where the edges overlap but not as much as they do in the stock version. Or go for the most accurate option and do a sinusoidal crossfade.
I’ve been meaning to switch to sinusoidal crossfades at some point… and will need to do it soon for proper RGB support. But I haven’t yet.
Or you could just add a 6th mode, which works like the adjustable-white mode, except instead of warm-cool, it would use red-warm.
1 Thank
Hi!
I guess I could’ve modify the code, but I don’t have the equipment to actually use it in the light. Can I buy it? How its called?
As for option 1, is there a way to set mode 5 to pure warm? How to do it?
And actually can I ask one more question? Do you know, is there some new batches out there with fixed ramps, that have no visible and audible PWM?
1 Thank
[quote=“Alexxey, post:67, topic:71001, username:Alexxey”]
I guess I could’ve modify the code, but I don’t have the equipment to actually use it in the light. Can I buy it? How its called?[/quote]
gchart sells the adapters here: WTS : USB-UPDI Flashing adapters for Attiny1616/AVR32DD20 drivers (Sofirn/Wurkkos/Firelylite)
or jlhawaii does: UPDI Programmer Driver Reflashing Kit – JLHawaii808
Go to the warm/cool ramping mode, ramp to 100% warm, then go to the white/red mode and it uses the ramped mix from that one for the white.
1 Thank