Thank you Tivo. We're not worthy bow, my friend.
i got everything i need for this driver but call me stupid i just cant figure out how to use this programmer
EDIT: This is not for me unless someone can make a how to vid ???
Hi Nitro! Sorry you have this problem. Tom was able to program using the Rev 1.0 doc. The 2.0 doc has the updates from inputs so far. I have PM’d you for something to try. I can work with you tomorrow if you have a googletalk account. PM me your account name if you have one.
Cheers!
Just ordered me a set...I have 3 ATtiny13's I ordered loose as well...gonna do this
Wish me luck
Nitro,
I remember an issue from Tom which I forgot to document. There is a one time procedure you need to do and I have added it as Appendix C. This is a procedure on how to determine the USB SmartCable Serial Number and updating the TFZ082A.TXT file. See preliminary copy of the updated PDF file (Rev 2.1).
PM me of any issue. Cheers!
Hey Tivo. I don't have any 3.3v regulators yet, but I'm planning on where I will tie one into your board. I don't have the ability to view Gerber (spelling?) files. So I don't really know what is going on trace wise. From the schematic, it appears that D1 would be positive on one side and VDD on the other. This would be a good place to connect 2 of the regulator legs. I'm concerned though by the proximity of the outer D1 pad to the ground ring. It just looks like it is connected the ground ring. Is the outer pad Bat + or VDD? And if yes, which of the 2 is it?
Thanks again for all your help and patience.
Here’s an option using a 3.3V VR SOT-89. Solder Vout first to the pad at an angle so that Vin is not touching the pad.
Solder GND/middle pin to the pad and the tab to the ring.
Solder a wire on Vin to the center ring/spring pad.
I have not fully tested it but initial test on using a different 3.3V VR looks promising. The one in the pic is AMC7135 for guidance only since it’s the same SOT-89.
Cheers!
Cool. Looks like a piece of Kapton tape may be needed under the Vin pin. I take it the Vout solders to the pad that it is resting on? I imagine D1 is left off the board on the other side, correct?
I'm not interested in polarity protection (Want more efficiency). So this solution looks good enough for me.
EDIT: Added strike through. Just reread your reply above.
D1 is not needed when using a VR. Cheers!
Got the final components today. Assembled a driver. Tried to use a heat gun at first but had to give up on that after 2 attempts. These are the smallest components I have ever reflowed. Ended up just using a soldering iron. Driver works great. I like the 3 different mode groups and the UI. I need to be careful to not change mode groups though. I tend to use low mode the most. So any time I go to low, I need to wait for 1.2 seconds after the flash to go to medium.
Tivo, you did an awesome job developing the hardware, firmware, and instructions. It is obvious that many big and little details and obstacles must have had to be determined and overcome to put this together in a way that anyone with determination and resourcefulness can follow with success. I'm in awe of your knowledge, talent and work ethic. This is a very impressive driver solution. It will solve some of the driver challenges most of us in this hobby are facing. I'm betting it will evolve to solve many more too.
Tivo's driver solutions rule! Tivo Rules!
Show me how u did the programming lol i cant get this thing to work even with a step by step guide ???????? im using a zilog usb smart cable programmer
Tivo has it all automated. Are you using Windows7?
windows 8, i followed his step by step on doing it but idk what im doing wrong
I'm guessing you are having a driver issue. Maybe Zilog has drivers for Windows 8 on their site.
EDIT: I tried to use Windows XP, but could not get it to work. I finally had to borrow my wife's laptop which has Windows 7. She bought the computer not too long ago and went way out of the way to not get Windows 8. She said she didn't want to deal with the compatibility issues of a newly developed OS. I'm glad she did now.
As far as direction, I followed Tivo's instructions. They worked to the letter once I got on a Windows 7 OS.
I got mine programmed, but it's just not mode changing the way it should. Once in a while, it will go thru the modes in Mode set #1, but then seems to get stuck in Turbo, and will just not get out of Turbo mode. Yours is mode changing ok, sounds like?
Also I'm seeing 3.6A in DD (Turbo mode) using a Pana PD and a XML on aluminum. Are you seeing higher amps, comparable to what you would get with an East-092 driver?
I just threw the driver in an old light that was open. It had an xml2, but skinny stock emitter wires. I just wanted to see if the driver worked. I just measured at the tail and am only seeing 3 amps. That sounds right given the skinny wires and xml2 on copper. Was using a CGR18650CH. Driver had 4 7135's and 4 fets. I'll resistor mod tomorrow hopefully and report back.
I haven't used the driver much. Just tried out the modes and groups. I'll use the light tonight and report back if I have any issues like that.
Weird - mounted it in a P60 pill and it's looking much better - mode switching is working (with issues), and got 4.6A on a Pana PD with am XM-L2 on a SinkPAD, 22 gauge wires, copper braided springs. Dunno what's goin on with modes - sometimes it just turns the light off, then next switch back on. Actually got over 1,300 lumens in a nice SF host.
u lucky dogs
I'm getting erratic mode switching behavior too. I need to go through the light to see if I have a connection issue. Like Tom, it sometimes won't get out of Turbo mode. The lowest mode can be stubborn to get out of too, at times. I'll check out the light and report back, but it may be a while.
This is a new driver that probably doesn't have much field time yet (is that correct Tivo?). So bugs like this (if it is the driver) are normal. I need to read that materials Tivo provided a ways back on programing the Zilog.
Hi 4Wheelr/Tom.
I have not tried on different setups but it maybe due to the Turbo mode. Try to program the
Group2 only using Tivo532-092A_2.0_Group2.bat.
This group doesn’t have Turbo and if OK, I’ll check the groups with Turbo for solution.
If you have any ideas let me know too.
Cheers!