I see the voltage range is specified as 2.7V to 6V. But a pair of new CR123a would total 6.4V…
I ask because Im debating buying a Zebra for a backcountry skiing emergency kit. I could choose an AA model, but not sure if that would be the best option in terms of output and runtime.
Im considering an 18650 model but LiIon can have performance issues when frozen. So Im wondering if a matched pair of CR123a would make a good backup battery option.
Also, for anyone that may have experience skiing in the dark, would you pick the Floody lens, or the clear lens? Im leaning towards floody, but have no outdoor Zebra beam experience.
Unno, just like brandy-new 1.5V alkaleaks start out at 1.6V or a hair more, there’s usually some wiggle room on electronix. They don’t work great at 5.99V then catch fire or let out The Magic Smoke at 6.00V, most mfrs will usually “spec-down” on ratings.
Ie, they wouldn’t say 6V unless they designed it to take a pair of '123s, because normal 18650s would top out at 4.2V anyway, and nothing other than a pair of series cells would give any higher voltage than that.
That would also exclude a pair of Li-ion 18350s/16340s because that’d be 8.4V and a definite no-no.
But saying “6V”? Yeah, pretty sure they meant that to allow '123s (both CR and RCR).
The only reason I have not chosen a Skilhunt is because they have magnets. I dont want magnets near my compass. Neither in my pack, nor IF I was to use the compass while wearing the headlamp.
I could remove the magnet from the tailcap, but I can not remove the magnet from the head, that attaches the magnetic charger.
The lack of magnets is the main reason Im considering a Zebra…
Question, do you think an AA Zebra would give sufficient light to ski out at night? Do you have any idea how many lumens is sufficient to ski with? I have never skiied at night.
This is what the terrain looks like in a full moon.
Not my photo, taken by a friend that likes to ski on full moons (he has no light, I may gift him one)…
I normally only ski that area during the day. I dont really “need” a compass in that area as I know it well, and downhill is always the way out
In good conditions it takes less than 1 hour to exit that offpiste, but on one occasion it took 4 hours. I misjudged the depth of the snow and a skier I took with me (during the day) had a very difficult time. Because their skiis kept accumulating a thick layer of ice on the bottom. We got out safely, before dark, but I was becoming concerned as the sun got low on the horizon.
About night skiing, i mostly do on closed slopes, sometimes off piste, but it is never 1h long descent, max like 1000m d- so even with forest and powder like 30min.
Anyway, know I have my h300 but I used to ski with my black diamond spot and then storm, and they were enough to me to ski down at chill pace.
So 200/250 lumen could do the trick at low pace.
Now the h300 allow me to ski like during the day.
Also love skiing full moon, used to ski down the Vallée Blanche with Friend in my home town Chamonix
Anyway, 1st thing I would recommand is to stay on well known terrain to ski by night.
Another light to consider is the Convoy h4, As Simon need some boost driver anyway for emiters li5ne xhp70.3hi in 6v?
Could be worth to ask if 2x cr123 would work lenght wise
Ps: love the full moon pic, would love to ski down this tree run for sure ^^ (where is it?)
the photo is offpiste at Ski Santa Fe, New Mexico… Altitude 11,000 feet. (that link shows some resort cameras). We get very dry powder… on a good day it is fantastic! Unfortunately we have had very little snowfall this year, and that terrain does not have deep enough cover (yet). It is also Much colder than usual right now… Im staying home today.
here is a video during the day, last season (Im the snowboarder in front). The terrain is not very steep, but as you can see, there is a lot of untracked powder!
Maybe in the past lithium ion batteries were a problem with cold temperatures. You are still going to get some voltage sag. As long as you don’t need turbo it’s not too bad down to 0F or -20c . 18650 batteries with at least a 10 amp CDR seem to do fine. Years ago there were a lot rated at only 5 amps.
I use my h300 with either sanyo ncr18650ga flat top or for skiing wigh a Samsung vtc6 flat top as I already had one.
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Never had trouble normal use case, but the light turn off if it fell down or as you suggested if I tap on the tailcap (max battery lenght tested was protected button top one with 68mm).
After this test, i checked my light and it looks like my driver spring is compressed
the h300 has double spring, so it gives some tolerance about the battery lenght.
As reference, skilhunt battery offered with the h300 (BL-135) is a button top protected battery with a lenght of 69mm.
Im glad to learn the H300 has springs at both the driver and the tail, which gives the ability to use both unprotected flat tops (65.3mm) as well as protected button tops (69mm)… Two CR123a (68mm) are very close to the same length as a protected button top.
If I end up buying an H300, and If I wanted to make a flat top LiIon battery fit with more secure spring compression, I would add a 12x3mm magnet to the negative end of the LiIon.
The H300 has a Lot of battery flexibility… it is even rated to a high enough voltage (8.4V) that it allows the use of two 16340 (though I usually prefer to avoid dual batteries).
The H300 has a lot more battery flexibility than a Zebra. And imo the Skilhunt UI is superior.
What the Zebra does better, is that it has Longer Runtime.
Update:
I wrote to Zebralight a few days ago, asking if the 6V limit means two CR123a (nominal 3V, although actual can be as high as 3.2V fresh), can be used in an H600 Fc Mk IV… their Official Reply is:
“Two CR123s are too long to fit inside the light.”
(Even though we know someone has successfully used two CR123a in a Zebra).
So IF I want an 18650 Zebra, that leaves me the option to buy cold tolerant Molicel Flat Top LiIon instead, as they are rated to operate at ultra low temperatures, down to -40° F
btw, here is an example of the difference in how power is delivered to the LED. In a Zebra the power is Pulsed, in the Skilhunt the power is Steady. (this is a separate factor from “regulated output”, which both lights offer):
Given that the Skilhunt H300 has dual springs and ships w a 69mm battery, I would consider using Button Top Molicel (67.5mm), instead of Flat Top (65.3mm)… or add a 12x3mm magnet to the bottom of a Flat top. In order to reduce the tendency for the light to turn off when dropped. (due to battery movement).
18650 Zebras otoh have no spring at the head (nor at the tail), and they are known to cause dented postive terminals when dropped.
Meanwhile, I ended up ordering two used AA Zebras… LOL
I will post impressions after they arrive. They do offer the option to use Lithium Primaries for cold weather use. (As does my Skilhunt H150, but it has magnets Im trying to avoid)
Hi thanks for the feedback from Zebra, at least it is officially clear now.
I don’t know how often you ski when it is -40° C outside (personnaly never, but those négatives never happen here, and if it would, i stay home in front of the fire haha ).
IMO the zebra with molicell probably is your bet bet, if you absolutly want to avoid magnets
Seeing the forest run you will ski, i wouldn’t go for the floodiest version.
