Looking at what drivers people are using in their triple LED builds and setups.
Please post the driver, the LEDs, the amp per LED and wiring setup and power source.
Ideally I would be looking at something capable of running on 2S Li-ion (or up to 9v). But interested in all setups people run including triples in single Li-ion tube lights.
I have several triples. I like to keep my lights small and that usually means 1 battery so I have built or reconfigured these lights with XM-L2 and XPL-V6 emitters to run in parallel with east092 DD drivers. They pull 6 amps minimum to 9 amps maximum from 1 LGHE2 high drain battery.
If I want longer runtime I just put in a higher resistance 18650.
Convoy S2 - Qlite with 12x 7135s - Triple Nichia 219Bs. It measured 4.58A at the tail for ~1.52A per emitter. Samsung 25r cell.
Sinner Ti-XC - BLF17DD - Triple XP-G2 R5 5A2s. I measured 7.30A at the tail. Sony VTC5 cell.
2x Mattaus silver plated copper P60 shells - Both with BLF17DD drivers - Triple XP-G2 R5 5A2 in one and Triple XP-G2 S3 3C in the other. Haven’t got hosts for them yet.
Eagle Eyes X6 - BLF17DD - Triple XP-L V6 3Ds - Awaiting heatsink so haven’t used yet.
All of my lights are running the emitters in parallel off of a single 18650.
I have a few triples. Originally in the S2's I was using the qLite with 12 7135's but then I used a 17DD from RMM. That was all she wrote. Since then I have been using Wight's driver.
The DD drivers are great in my opinion and if I want to control output I just choose a different battery. The introduction of the DD's were great and Wight's driver is fantastic!
Thanks for the replies, makes me want to build a compact triple too.
Not many larger 2S powered triples though. I’m finding this quite a tough one.
I want to run 2x26650 and 3 LED’s (not sure which yet, XP-L maybe) and want to drive each led to 2.8-3.0amps. But can’t seem to find a driver to do this.
This is a good question, and I was thinking about it recently. I know a lot of people use BLF17DD or other custom drivers but these drivers are out of my reach. East-092 and Nanjg 105C with a lot of stacked 7135 seems to be the way to go.
DBCstm: LD-1 not suitable for Triple’s
The LD-1 is not suitable for Triples without adequate heat sinking and relocation of the power supply portion of the driver to a separate board. This, according to led4power.
I just built a Sinner Ti 18350 triple. 219B, Dr Jones lucidrv/FT. I’m running the 1.4A model now (cool running, less than 500mA per LED) but will be building up a 2.8A version when I get another host.
How about some more detailed info from those who’ve got triples working?
Wired how? — Serial or parallel?
Powered how? One cell or two?
And followups from those who have been running them for a while — how well have they held up? How long can you use one before it’s too hot, for example?
S6 triple XP-L Hi with FET driver from Mountain and LG High-drain cell. No idea of actual current since I don’t have a meter that wil go that high.
S2 triple with Nichia 219b and generic 3-mode 8x 7135 driver from Fasttech.
S3 triple with XP-G2 and 3A Qlite driver from Mountain with moonlight low enabled. This is my new favorite light, very bright for its size, good runtime without getting exceptionally hot, and I’ve found that I’m a big fan of the low-low mode.
Ultrafire WF602c triple with XP-E2 and 2-mode DD high driver from FT. I haven’t bothered to measure tailcap current since I’m just using some old Ultrafire 16340 cells I have in this light. If I had some better cells, it might be more interesting…
KD has three boost drivers. 5 - 7 and 9 XML. We know the the claim for the 7 and 9 XML driver isn’t really valid, as they can’t boost those outlandish number of XMLs on two or three cells without whining and burning out quickly.
The 5 XML driver is another story. Running three emitters on two cells is no problem. No whining and fast mode changing.
I’ve been running a triple emitter Fandy Fire STL-V2 with two 18650 and a KD 5 XML boost driver for over a year. It runs like a charm, giving me a rock solid 3.6A per emitter. One of my favorites.
Set up like THIS thread by Djozz shows. I have the Backside (metal tab) facing up, and looking at the four legs on the FET (from the bottom with the tab up), the right three are soldered together and to ground ring, the left by itself is soldered to the 7135 point as shown in the tutorial. The negative LED lead is soldered to the Back tab on the FET as well as to the Ground ring (or other ground point)
I flashed MiniDrv on to the ATtiny13A with four levels, Moon(ish), Low, Med, and searyoureyballs direct drive pulling over 6 Amps with a purple Efest 18350…. It is bright on the searyoureyeballs level, but the calculated runtime is about six minutes, if you could hold it…
The LED’s are also from RMM as is the SPACER for the S2+. I got the XP-G2 S4 2B triple…. Happy with the tint, and the power is amazing, but I cannot wait for higher binned XP-L HI to show up again… The HOST is also from RMM… I think I like his site…
I got the Frosted narrow, medium and wide optics for it… The frosted narrow is good, the medium and wide are like having a worklight in the palm of your hand. It becomes a wall of light with either of them.
EDIT: parallel, over 2A to each LED on Direct Drive.
Working on a Texas Avenger LDO driver to 3 XHP-50.2 in a fully scratch built light. The copper pill section started as a 3.17 lb chunk. It’s lost some weight and will lose more, waiting on the emitters and reflector to get here.
However, I’ve found that I’ve only used 2 x 7135s as the highest non FET mode. So my new replacement driver is the F4 which has no solder pads (not needed for a 4 x 7135 configuration), and it also utilizes the new OTSM method instead of traditional OTC. The zener is long gone, I use LDOs now days.