Well, I found the issue but didn't have much time to fix it. I put an meter (ohmmeter) on the spring and tailcap and then from one end of the body to the other and really had a tough time getting continuity. The tailcap wasn't too bad, but the body was a big problem. And forget about signal from the body to the head (through the threads where the head screws on). Even though I sanded all threads with 60 grit sandpaper, I still couldn't get continuity!
I did find a link for a "how-to" on CPF on using drain cleaner as a deanodizer here. I think I will first use a wire wheel on a dremel tool on the threads and tailcap and then try attaching a ground wire from the main body to the driver. I'm hoping I can get a nice bare spot just above that C-ring that stops the switch body and solder a wire there (using a propane torch to heat it). Any thoughts on this? Remember, I no longer have the original switch in place to use that screw to get ground signal.
Thanks kbark! Perhaps people are confusing the D Mag with the C Mag. From what I've read from others, the LED (rebel) reflector doesn't provide too much of a difference from the standard reflector. I'm still going to go ahead and order a 3C Mag (due to the heatsink option only working on a C size body) as well as a couple LED reflectors. Have decided to go ahead and order both the 3C Maglite & reflectors from ZBattery since the shipping didn't go up much more when I added the Maglite (and it's a good price - cheaper than Amazon).
Hey, Garry! I can't read the original how-to on CPF (down yet again for maintenance) but I did read Techjunkie's instructions on DX. He did exactly what I did with my XM-L 3D mag. He is using the entire pill and reflector from DX and is not using the original Mag reflector, LED or otherwise. At least not on the DX instructions he posted.
That said, if the pill used in the DX pill/reflector combo really does take a 26mm driver then the O.D. of the pill may be enough to fit snugly into a C sized mag body. Would be really cool if it did but would still be a very thin heatsink by itself and pretty scary to use. I'd probably want to pot it or fill it with solder or alumiweld then use a 17mm driver in it. I will keep checking the CPF link until it comes back up. Sounds interesting. Thanks for sharing!
BTW -You can view Google cached version while CPF is down. In this build he does not use the DX reflector - just the heatsink itself. Wouldn't it be enough to spread heatsink compound on the heatsink and then mount in into the neck of the C Mag? Wouldn't heat then transfer from the heatsink to the Mag body pretty good? That's my plan. Of course I'm not driving my setup really hard with extreme heat.
So how are you suggesting mounting the 17mm driver in the 26mm opening? Fill the 26mm opening with the above linked "Alumiweld" and then pot the 17mm driver to that?
That’s what I would do. I just think that the layer of brass the star sits on is pretty thin. While I’m sure you can get away with it as is, I would feel better knowing there is a large chunk of metal in there to help wick off the heat. It can only help to keep that initial turn-on brightness longer if the pill is potted well.
If space is an issue you could always drill a hole into the alumiweld potted pill using a 17mm-3/4" bit and make a hole just deep enough to fit the driver then pot the driver into that hole.
BTW, I'm really itching to try this mod myself. :)
Chicago X,
Thanks for the offer, but I don't have any dimensions at this point. Basically I was looking for an alternative to a C sized H22A heatsink DHS flat top. I don't have the C sized Maglite yet, and I don't own calipers (and also not sure I could correctly measure the depth the heatsink should sit or how high the center post should be raised. If you think you could gather info elsewhere and get it close I'd be willing to pay you for one or two. I was going to say shoot for that center post being 12.8mm in diameter to fit the LED reflector, but according to kbark above the reflector won't fit in the C size head. Let me know if you think you can come up with something from other sources.
I also found the other thread where someone is trying to get some heatsinks done for Mags..
If that works out, I will be going for that instead.. less trouble ;)
An aluminum heatsink will offer far better heat transfer. Thermal compound has terrible heat transfer compared to aluminum. That said, it will prob work okay if it is not driven hard.
For anyone searching for this information, I did receive my 3C cell Maglite and the LED (rebel) reflectors. I pulled off the 3C's head, pulled out the old reflector and dropped the LED reflector right in! Perfect fit! I even screwed the head back on to the body (although the incandescent bulb doesn't fit through the opening of the LED reflector). I also noticed that this stock Maglite doesn't make ground contact until the tail cap is fully screwed on - apparently the "lip" of the tailcap meeting the end of the body tube is where the ground path is connected - not through the threads at all. I am wondering if running a dremel tool with a wire wheel attachment on both sets of threads would improve the ground path.
As a side note, I actually like the output of this 3C stock light. Is significantly brighter than my 2D Mag and comparing appearances in a dark room with a 2D LED Mag it renders colors much much more realistically! I am not sure if the 3C incandescent's tint would be considered "neutral white" or "warm white", but I now know I want LED's with neutral white tint's!
This is the reflector that I just used for an XM-L. I was going to send it to Chicago X to have him turn the top down a bit so the Mag bezel can screw on fully. I used it with an H22A, so I had to drill out the hole for the emitter. Not too impressed with it though. Great smooth beam, and good mix between throw and spill, but I'm going to give the Rebel reflector a shot now to get more throw.