The driver has no constant current control and has 5 modes:
High: 1.5A at 4.2V, about 1A at 3.7V
Medium: 750mA at 4.2V, about 500mA at 3.7V (bad PWM, I believe 200Hz)
Low: 375mA at 4.2V, about 250mA at 3.7V (baaaad PWM, I believe 100Hz)
Strobe
S.O.S
That looks like it could be a legitimate Cree emitter vs. one of the LB counterfeits. And yes, LB is already in the business of copying XM-L2 emitters:
In the meantime, I would concur that the host you have isn’t optimum. The S2/S2+ (Convoy series!) would be a nice option. I’m not sure where you are located, Mtn is always a good option, but if shipping isn’t convenient, this is a good option @ $6.87: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1618/10002463/1198400-18650-diy-edc-led-flashlight-host-with-switch-refl
Assuming the quality hasn’t changed since I purchased mine, this is a decent quality build-it-yourself host, with a lot of flexibility.
Add a known-good XM-L2 emitter on a 16mm PCB, and a 17mm driver. The kit includes everything else you need except for the thermal paste.
Mine has this driver installed: https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001751/1127403-8-amc7135-4-group-25-modes-led-flashlight-driver-c
It’s a generic clone of the Nanjg 105c/Qlite driver, but is cheaper, and inferior in some ways, but lacks memory. I’m using it because it’s a simple no-memory, always-start-on-high driver. Medium and low are far too high (low is a decent medium) and both have visible PWM (not the worst I’ve seen). This is my winter nighttime EDC - with the earlier nights, I want to have the easy access to the full brightness without fumbling through modes and this works.
Well, I don’t have tools for DIY kits I’m afraid. I live in Spain
If only I could find something like the convoy S2 but with 26650 batteries that would be awesome. I’ve been perusing the 26650 forums to no avail.
I guess getting one of this off aliexpress is too risky, right?
Is there no U2-3C variant? Looks like a nice warmish tint with the efficiency of the U2 bin
Or is tint more of a personal preference thing? I read that blueish lights are worse for color contrast
EDIT: I googled it and apparently it’s preferable to pick a slightly dimmer T6-3C
Thanks for the suggestion. I’m googling reviews of this flashlight and the Trustfire A8. Apparently the A8 runs at 1.2A and for a 26650 I could do with a beefier driver.
But at this point I’m considering getting a good flashlight for modding anyway, although that’s going to require a lot more googling, LOL
I eventually ordered a Convoy S2+ which is on it’s way, but also another Ultrafire, very similar to the E17 this thread is about, but the version that takes 26650 batteries (E26 I believe is the model), just because I wanted one with these batteries.
OK, so I opened it and it came with a counterfeit LatticeBright LED that looks very much like an XM-L2. It’s just as bright as the E17 that came with a LED labeled XM-L2, measured with a Luxmeter, but the LB is a crappy blue-ish tint.
So chances are both are fake LEDs and it’s rather likely that these LB shitty LEDs are being sold by plenty shady chinese stores over at Aliexpress and who knows what other sites.
I’ll see how it compares to the Convoy once it arrives
I was getting sick of the blue-ish tint of this effin LatticeBright so decided to bite the bullet and dedome it. Boy what a difference! it’s lost some brightness but the tint is now gorgeous!
I would say it’s gone from some 7000K to maybe 3000-4000K, is that possible?