Don’t have one in hand yet, but to fix the bump-for-mode-change problem, could you reach down there with some hemostats or long needle nose pliers and stretch the spring a little? I imagine the mode change is coming from the battery bouncing just enough to break contact.
I’m glad I held of on buying one of these. Best to give it a few months so they can work out the kinks and produce a light that has gone through sufficient quality control.
I was able to pull the spring and stretch it a bit but it is pretty weak and it really didn’t do it much good. I also sanded the tube down to allow the Sanyo to slide in. The light will not allow any of the protected cells 69 +mm in length as well. They are too long. That leaves out the Panasonic and Sanyo 2800+mah protected batteries it was originally said to be compatible with.
I figured out where that slot for the 2nd O-ring is. Pic below. The head feels much more secure after adding the 2nd O-ring, and it doesn’t turn on everytime you touch it now.
Also, BTW, the small, black O-ring is the one that goes on both the 1st and 2nd slots, not the larger white O-ring. FYI, one of my lights had NEITHER the 1st or 2nd O-ring:
I took the picture with the Ti one, because you can’t really see the O-rings on the black one.
Edit: The threads and the O-rings are as dry as dust - I’ll be putting some grease on now…
I don’t know, but they may have eliminated the list because they’re done shipping the pre-orders. Maybe if you see RIC online, you can PM him, or email him via their website?
Weird there’s so much quality variances….My Keeppower 18650 3400mAH batteries fit in my black DQG 18650 w/ XM-L2 without a problem. The head on mine is nice and tight even with only one o-ring.
Well I’ve had this light for two days now and am still amazed that it’s the same size as my larger single CR123 lights e.g. HDS Clicky, SF E1L…
My tracking does work on Singpost. Says it shipped to the UK on the 30th April and arrived on the 3rd of May - hooray. Sadly 7 days later from touching down in the UK and no sign of it
Mine arrived today in Amsterdam, hooray! . And I am delighted, it is just as nice as I came to expect, I think it looks extremely cool. I am lucky to have gotten one that isn't faulty. The finish is a nice matt black, it came with the white o-ring in the wrong position, with the two black ones in place, one spare white o-ring and two spare black ones. Threading was dry, cleaned it a bit and lubed it with a little silicone grease, one-handed operation works fine. The neutral led is quite cool, rough guess 5500K. I think this will be a good bike-light too.
I agree with all you said. I don’t like the flicker and it is way too easy to jump modes. The only way to prevent that is to use 2 hands and twist it firmly and quickly.
The 2 black o-rings were not installed and I had to move the other to behind the TIR.
The threads were also dry and gritty.
Otherwise, this is my first 18650 light and I like it.
Brother and I got our DQG’s in today. Mines black, his is the Ti version. Both look nice. Neither had the little o-ring on the head and both were also bone dry. So we put the oring on, relocated the clear optic oring as Ric said to do, lubed the threads up.
Very nice little lights. Nice beam and pretty good power for a compact light.
Did a quick impromptu test on both lights with a slightly used 18650 cell. They read almost identical. Both did about 510 after 30sec. Also did 194 on medium and 18 on low. Throw was right at 5.3K.
Basically we’re both pretty pleased with our lights.
It appears that the alu ring inside the head (that is the contact plate for the minus when the light is twisted on) is fujiked onto the electronics of the driver/led board, so I broke that up while screwing the ring out (oops), also scraped the electronics a bit with the tweezer points (the alu ring is not very thick so the tweezer points sticked out at the other side)(=oops2). But after I carefully screwed the ring back in tight, it all still worked (pfwew ). I do not advice to try this at home, but in the meantime I did take the picture :
It left me with a question though: the threading on the inside of the head is anodised too, so the alu ring officially has no electrical contact with the head, right?. So how does the minus reach the driver? Is it the direct contact with the top of electronics? I guess not, a strange way to do it, and they should not have used the (non-conducting) Fujik then. My guess is that the anodising inside is uneven enough that the ring makes contact to the inside of the head anyway.
Did you try ohming the negative contact on the driver PCB to somewhere on the body while you had this opened up? That would have shown you whether or not there’s a ground path without a battery in the light.
Great light, but because the O-Ring was placed on the wrong side of the tir, when screwed on at the factory, the TIR tightened all the way down to scraped against the LED pad which caised the Optic to get scrtched creating plastic burs, and also scraped up the LED pad. Luckily it didnt touch the LED itself. Also, it was missing both the O-rings on the threads, and the threads were dry as desert bone. I’ll need a new TIR optic, but I’m sure RIC will get me sorted.
Just noticed I got an email from Ric where he offers the DQG buyers 1x Panasonic 3100 unprotection 18650 at 6usd including shipping.
That is a really good price but not sure how you order it, regular price is 9USD.