Hoping this light is reviewed soon. Holding off on the buy until there’s more info.
I ordered one. When it arrives (probably 6-8 weeks) I’ll let everyone know how it is. :bigsmile:
Very much looking forward to it. I have the AAA clicky and the 26650 triple. Both have been quite good. This one could be a nice addition.
looking forward for your review.
the dqg tiny 18650 is the worst flashlight i had, because of that i will never buy twisties again. i hope the clicky version is not another disappointment.
Anyone take delivery of this light yet?
Still waiting for mine to arrive.
Typically here in California I receive deliveries from CNQG anywhere from 3-8 weeks after ordering. I expect to wait for some time yet.
Just received my notification from CNQG that it shipped. So I figure another 3 weeks and I might get the light.
Just received my DQG18650 mini clicky.
The picture has from left to right:
- My modded Convoy S2+ mini. 18500 cell, 2500 lumens, 74mm, 49g empty.
- DQG18650 mini clicky. 18650 cell, 87mm, 38g empty
- Zebralight SC62w, 95mm, 40g empty
My initial impressions of the new DQG18650:
- This light is tiny. It’s MUCH smaller than my Zebralight SC62w. It’s even noticeably shorter than my DQG18650 twisty (1st version).
- Glossy green-grey anodizing looks very well nice. Looks much better than the black anodizing on my early version DQG18650 twisty.
- The button is tiny and has a metal cap. It sticks out maybe half a mm from the body. It also doesn’t require that much pressure to click so there is a definite risk of accidental activation.
- UI is a mixed bag. It’s not great:
single-click from off: low
double-click from off: medium
triple-click from off: high
long-click from on: turbo
double-click from low, med or high: advance to next non-turbo mode (low-med-high-then back to low)
single-click from low, med or high: off
single-click from turbo: goes back to previous mode before entering turbo
double-click form turbo: off
click from off-wait half second-click and hold: turbo
fast double-click from turbo: off
It has nice shortcut to minimum. Medium and high are also easily accessible. The problem is with turbo. To get to turbo from off you have to first single-click, then wait a half second for the light to turn on, then click-and-hold. Also, turning the light off from turbo requires a double-click, but only a single-click from other modes.
The interface works. It isn’t bad. But it’s not great either. There should be a faster shortcut to max power, and turning it off should be the same from al modes.
- Ergonomics: This light feels GREAT in the hand. It’s fully knurled making it MUCH grippier than than the Zebralight SC62w. And it doesn’t have the wobbly head issue typical of many twisties.
- Clip: Quite nice actually. It grips firmly and has a nice cutout for a finger. It’s also reversible.
- Battery: I tested this light with a Zebralight protected 18650 cell (3100 mAh Panasonic NCR18650B with protection circuit and wrapper), and a Samsung 20R IMR cell. The light worked flawlessly with both cells. Unlike my early version DQG18650, this light looks like it should fit any 18650 cell. It works fine with flat top cells.
- The head and body tube appear to be separate pieces, but the body tube seems to be threadlocked where it meets the head. Batteries are loaded from the tailcap. Any attempt to mod the driver would need to break the threadlocker though.
- To save space, the battery tube is actually quite cleverly done. There is no spring in the battery tube. Instead there’s a raised post surrounded by a foam donut slightly higher than the post at the rear. Install a battery then screw it in until the foam donut stops the rattle. Screw it in further to make electrical connection. This mechanism allows for a shorter battery tube than if the light used a spring. It also gives the light tailcap lockout despite not having anodized tailcap threads. The light is 87mm long with a Samsung 25R installed and screwed down. If you use a longer cell, it will still work fine, but the tailcap won’t screw down quite as far making the entire light longer. There are plenty of extra threads in the tailcap to accomodate this system.
- Tailcap lockout works with all sizes of cells and is easy to toggle with one-hand.
- Beam pattern is excellent. Not surprising since it appears to use the same TIR optic found in the earlier DQG18650s. I chose neutral tint. It looks like an XML2 with 3C tint. The beam is fine, though as expected the tint isn’t quite as good as that found on lights with 3D or 4D tint.
- Accessories: minimal. Came in a plastic case with a spare o-ring and the clip. No instructions or any other accessories.
- Glow in the dark o-ring under the bezel.
Initial Impression:
Overall, despite the less than perfect UI, this is a much better light than my first generation twisty DQG18650. It’s the smallest single-18650 light on the market in both length and weight. It’s an excellent choice for anyone who wants the smallest possible light with the runtime of an 18650.
The UI is vastly inferior to Zebralight especially when combined with the risk of turning on in the pocket if tailcap lockout is not used. However, this can be forgiven given that it’s smaller and grippier than the Zebralight and costs 1/3 as much. Overall, I like this light.
That looks awesome, but I would want to swap out drivers instead of using that UI…
Yes, I’ve been thinking about that too.
I suspect that one way they got the head so short is by using a single circuit-board combining both the driver and the emitter. Earlier DQG lights and all the recent Zebralights use this method. By only having a single board space is saved making for a shorter light.
This makes a driver change rather awkward, since there isn’t room in the light for a driver and a separate star while using the stock TIR optic.
NOTE: I haven’t verified that they used a single board… but I suspect they have.
I think the best potential for modding this light is in converting it into a triple. A triple TIR optic is much shorter than the stock optic. There should be room for a standard triple star and a conventional driver to fit into the light along with a Carclo optic. The star and optic can sit on top of the shelf in the head instead of behind it. A standard driver could then be installed behind it in place of the stock circuitboard. The hardest part might be finding room for the switch since I think it will end up pretty close to the star.
Both the bezel/head and the head/body threads appear to be threadlocked. But breaking that threadlock shouldn’t be an issue if you’re replacing the guts of the light anyways.
For the new emitter I’m thinking of a 3-amp Nanjg105c with triple Nichia 219B and DrJones lumodrv or Mokkdrv.
I’m not sure I want to tear apart the light when I only have the one though. I might order another and wait till it arrives before beginning the rebuild.
Thanks for a great summary of this light, it is exactly the amount and type of information that I like most :-)
Looks like a nice light, but I would carry a light this size in my pocket and with this switch that would be a problem. Come to think of it, unintended pressing the button would just switch the light on in low, the next click would be off again, etc., not a really big deal perhaps..
True. And the low mode is really quite low. Almost but not quite a moonlight (I consider moonlight to be when you can stare into the LED from close range without hurting your eyes).
Now that I think about it, if it’s anything like the first generation DQG18650 you actualy might be able to use a traditional star in the light. Install the star on top of the platform above the driver. The bezel won’t screw down as far, but good enough as long as it keeps the thing together.
Keep in mind a single TIR optic is 10mm, same as the triple (I have some Carlco ones, and I think the generics from fasttech are also 10mm long).
Incorrect. I just measured it.
Height of single-TIR optic in DQG 18650 (mark I twisty version. I didn’t try to break the threadlock on the clicky, but based on the appearance and beam profile I believe all DQG 18650s use the same TIR optic) = 14mm
Height of Carclo triple-TIR optic (measuring only the portion that rises above the triple star. Does no include the portion of the legs that sits inside the star as those don’t increase height) = 6mm
Is your DQG clicky NW or CW?
Which one is brighter, sc62 or the DQG 18650 clicky?
Also is it floodier or throw(ier) than sc62?
I want to know because I also have sc62w.
Thanks
Thanks for the info. I’m really tempted with this light. But I’d love to know how problematic accidental activation while carrying it.
A light this size for me would be clipped to the inside of my right jeans pocket. But if you can’t carry it, without it turning itself on, then it’s a complete fail. The Olight S15 does this, which sadly makes it one of the most useless lights I own.
- My DQG clicky is neutral white. It has the standard 5,000K 3C tint neutral. A good standard tint found in most neutral emitter lights. However, the tint isn’t as pretty as the exceptionally nice tint found in the SC62w (which I think is 4D tint).
- My SC62w is definitely brighter with a ceiling bounce test (both lights at turn-on at 100% power). The DQG18650’s turbo mode is on a timer. I haven’t timed it, but I think it’s one minute then it ramps down to high. I don’t have a way to measure exact lumens, but it’s definitely lower than the 980 lumen SC62w.
- The DQG has a narrower spill and much narrower hotspot. I think it may be slightly throwier than the SC62w, but I need to break out the luxmeter to double-check.
Despite having a relatively soft-touch switch, I haven’t had any accidental activations with this light when pocket carrying.
I think it helps that:
- The button is metal so is less likely to get caught on pants than a protruding rubber button.
- The button is absolutely tiny compared to most flashlight buttons.
- The button is almost flush with the body. Yes it protrudes, but only by a 1/2 mm.
The UI is actually very convenient if you regularly want to access low, med or high. The only inconvenient access is to turbo. Note however, that compared to an SC62w the tiny flush button is harder to find by feel.
I ordered a second one. When it arrives I plan to tear it down and attempt rebuild it with a different driver and possibly convert it into a triple.
Edited to remove snarky post.