I'm tempted to buy one of these, just because of the amazing description:
When the module is powered up, the relay immediately pull the pull-in time can be adjust by potentiometer 1-200 seconds (or so), the relay automatically enter the end of time is timing relay disconnected state off time can also be potentiometer adjustment 1-200 seconds (or so), the end of the off-time timing, and then into the pull-in state, followed by circulation, only power will stop working.
:facepalm:
I’ve bought from that seller. many of their items provide plenty of information.
It’s a rare thing to not have to reverse-engineer a product you buy off the internets.
Well I technically don't need to add anything to the dome light circuit unless I just want to tart it up. Somewhere around here lurking in one of the many junk boxes is some sort of delay timer with dip switches that would work for the trunk light, I don't remember if it opens or closes after the time setting, but it could be made to work either way depending on the relay setup. And of course I have to find the thing. xD
I got the LEDs today. The little leftover drivers get OMG HOT just running off a 12v DC wall wart, but they do work, only question is for how long. Is there a better option?
How about a led strip in the trunk? That way you don’t have to solve cooling and you’ll have some light even with full trunk.
I already have these so they're going to be used. Heat for the LEDs isn't a problem, there's plenty of exposed metal to attach a flat aluminum plate to. It's the little toy drivers I'm concerned about, all the heat is coming from one tiny little chip on the backside. I could coat the entire PCB with epoxy and glue it to the LED's mounting plate/heatsink but I don't like to build stuff that's not serviceable like that...
But what I was really looking for was an answer from someone with experience in the products, not someone who could do a google search for me. I’d like to avoid the problems I read about elsewhere earlier that resulted from replacing the stock incandescent bulbs with some untested online purchase. Or the surprises that happened in post #23.
But it's... totally different. A direct replacement LED bulb that fits the original socket, vs. building something from scratch that completely replaces the original lighting. Just get your replacement bulbs and stick them in, no designing or re-engineering or drivers to pick out & heatsink. You can buy them off the shelf.
I shouldn’t worry too much about the heat, most electronics components are rated to 85C at least. If you want to make double sure, just AA a small lump of aluminium to the chips in question.
input voltage from the wall-wart under load: 12.56v
input current: .66A
output voltage from driver: 9.06v
output current: .71A at switch-on, falls to .61A after about 20 seconds
I don't know yet if that dropoff is because of the driver getting hot, I don't want to glue it onto a chunk of aluminum yet as that would block access to the sense resistor. At 700mA & 9v it's considerably underdriven, should I try to tweak it? :evil:
You are at 77% efficiency, which is about all you can expect from these cheap drivers. You could bump it up a bit, but it’s already trying to shed almost 2W with no surface area. Do the mod to get 1A out, then add a good heatsink to the chip with Fujik. Good to go, for a while anyway :J
Just buy a few extra drivers. 
Know of any decent quality drivers that would run it at 1A? I don't have a variable power supply to test it, but from 9v @ 700mA I'd guess the Vf at 1A would only be 9.6-9.8v or so?
I JBWelded a 2" x 1/4" copper strip across the regulator chip and clamped it to the same CPU heatsink the LED is on, output stays steady at 700mA now. It does get hot though.
I may skip upgrading the interior light for now, and use one of the LEDs as a desk lamp... these things put out a lot more light than I thought they would. Who am I kidding, I'll use both in the car and order a few more LEDs, maybe the neutral 5000K version for the desk lamp.
I’ll have to dig, but I ordered a better one a while back, a little more efficient, designed for 1A at 10V. They are bigger, but better. They are in a bin somewhere, I ordered five and needed one… typical budget mindset, piece price is cheaper if I buy more; hey you never know. 
Edit: This one https://www.fasttech.com/products/1110706
It is spec’d at 900-1000mA, and I recall modding it easily for 1A. I forget where I used it and what resistor I used. If you get it, you’ll figure it out. Like the other driver, get rid of the bridge diodes for better efficiency.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1178004
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1110706
There are a few others listed that all use the same circuit as the ones I already have, with some differences in the board layout.
The 1110706 is not the same circuit as the one pictured in your OP. Look at the chip, and how much larger the coil is.
Yours:
1110706:
I have both types and the larger one does work better and handles more power.
No, I meant the others they have listed that would work are the same or similar, I linked the two I found on a quick check that were significantly different.
Ahh, I See. That first link looks like a beast, 15W. Might be worth a try. I think the second one will do the job too, with a resistor mod.
I use these single mode drivers for 4+ to 12Volt range:
http://www.fasttech.com/p/1105800
Change the sense resistor for different current (1A max)
I=.25/R
Fasttech has the sense resistors as well (qty 100)
^^ Those look interesting and simple, thanks.
Man, I wish I knew the actual Vf curve on these, would make picking drivers a lot easier.
These drivers came with a 3-up XRE module from Fasttech. I have one installed in a desk lamp and... it sucks. You can tell it's on but not what I was hoping for - not bright enough for doing tiny detail work or for taking good macro pics of small parts (I know photography lighting is its own parallel universe, don't really wanna go there though). This '10W' LED looks to the eye to be about six times as much light as the XREs, with the same driver delivering the same power. Nicer color and a nicer output pattern, too.
I wonder how much DC-DC converters cost? Just asking as another approach (with single LEDs at least), would be to get something to step down the voltage to ~4V, then run each 3V LED with however many 7135 chips you want. If the DC-DC converter is robust and doesn’t cost much, that would be about as simple as it gets.
I took a similar approach with a desk lamp, using a phone charger to step mains down to ~5V and then a couple of 7135 chips to limit current to the LED.