No, this is a 12v single LED, same as the square ones in those 10W floodlights. Vf is around 9v at 700mA, specs, if you can call them that, say it's "10-12v".
ah, ok, worth a thought if were entertaining using standard high power LEDs.
The driver I ref above from Fasttech is said to be the same as this from DX,
…so there is some data on it there, (though some from the older rev of the board) and it is listed on Aqualab with references.
It is frustrating to find good data on all these drivers.
I have only run it with a single XM-L, XP-G, but out to 12 volts the output to emitter stayed flat. (though efficiency dropped, it did not get hot) I am impressed, but it needs at least 1 volt above Vf to stay in regulation.
For a desk light, I’m liking the XM-L2 T5 5C1 from IS:
700-800mA in a gooseneck lamp that used to have a 20W halogen bulb.
Nice tint, bright even lighting. Much better than the halogen it replaced.
I have one of these in the junk box: http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S009736 ...think it's safe to test it, with the same 12v wall wart? I can't for the life of me remember where it came from or even if it's single mode, but component-wise at least, it's identical to the pics at KD.
Go for it, you’ll be fine. The driver might fry, but you’ll be OK. 
Hey comfychair, I did a quick test of this one:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1110706
In stock form, it drives 0.76A into one of those 10W LED modules
After 4-5 minutes, the board gets to 60C. I bypassed the bridge rectifier diodes. Power out is 7.5W.
Efficiency at 11V in: 93.7%
Efficiency at 14.4V in: 93.7%
This driver is better than I thought originally. I had to double-check the numbers, but yeah that’s what it is.
Now the part you are waiting for; resistor mod
I added one R40 resistor and it outputs 0.99A
Does seem to be getting a little hotter, around 85C. Power out is 9.9W.
Efficiency at 11V in: 92.7%
Efficiency at 14.4V in: 92.9%
For $2 each, that’s tough to beat. 
You know what I just noticed... that one uses the same PT4115 chip as all the others, just in a SOIC instead of SOT package.
The leftover mystery flashlight driver is a no-go, tried it last night and it would give a brief flash when the barrel connector was plugged in then nothing, I didn't bother to check if it wall wart was tripping or if it was the driver itself. The wall wart will run the LED fine in direct drive, at around 1.2A, though it does pull the voltage down to 9.4-9.6v or so. It's only rated to 1A, but didn't trip anything inside.
I've been running it like that for several hours straight at a time and it's stable, it won't see nearly that kind of duty cycle in the car.
Question... since the Vf at any reasonable drive current looks to be nowhere even close to 11-11.5 volts, can this be done with a few 7135s and a 5v regulator to power the Vdd pins? With good heatsinking (easy in a car, harder in a flashlight - I can mount all this on a 4" x 6" aluminum plate if I feel like it) would the Vf vs. car battery voltage be close enough for that to work?
Remember, the 7135 doesn't see the full system voltage between positive and negative, only the potential between Vf and supply voltage, and potential between Vdd and ground.
20mm * 20mm??!
First thing you need is …
A bigger CAR!!
BwAH-ha-ha-haaaaa!
Seriously, after trying to check coolant at night with the dim, worthless excuse of an incandescent “hood light”, I almost just tossed it. Until I saw this!
Replying just to get subscribed…
As long as the voltage drop that the 7135 experiences between Out and Gnd results in reasonable power dissipation (0.35A x X.XXV) it should be fine. If you can add a heatsink to the chips, the voltage drop worst case of 4.4V (at 14.4V in, emitter VF 10.0V) will mean about 1.3W per chip. Assuming three chips, that’s ~4W to burn off, worst case…
I still lean towards the 1110706 buck driver because of efficiency, less heat to throw away.
The thing I'm having a hard time with is that the car's voltage range is so close to the LED's Vf. Buck converters need some voltage overhead, and with the battery's surface charge gone (after sitting for a while not being driven) versus voltage with the engine running it puts things into a strange overlap area.
For instance, what happens when the input voltage is low, and too close to the Vf for proper regulation, but is still higher than what the LED would be happy with? If I had an adjustable power supply I'd know better what the Vf curve looks like, all I have to go on is 710mA = 9.06v, 1.2A = 9.55v. If the battery's sitting at 11.6v and the regulator gives up what happens to the current to the LED?
In actual operation none of this may matter one little bit but it's still bugging me...
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Dimbo- check this out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/141009509494 :O
if there’s not enough overhead then the drive current will be lower. Nothing bad will happen, it’ll just be dimmer.
Ah, so the driver will just 'eat' the voltage difference, even though it's technically out of regulation?
See, I understand perfectly what happens with a 7135 in the same situation. But those don't need any overhead, as long as supply voltage is above Vf it allows the rated current, when it's less, it can't, because the LED itself becomes the 'regulator', in a manner of speaking.
pretty much. The overhead comes from some of the components on the board, which “eat” a certain voltage independent (mostly, afaik) of input voltage. So when Vin drops below Vf+overhead, Vf drops. Lowever Vf = lower current.
So you can happily run 2S light from a 2S battery using a buck driver with 1V overhead, but the light will start dimming when the battery is 1/3-1/2 discharged depending on drive current. Some people like that as a visual voltage warning.
I’d gladly take the slight dip in efficiency for that.
I see R1(R200) and R2(R300)… Where do you add the R40?
(Here’s hoping the heat under the hood doesn’t just kill the whole mess!!)
These would work great in an average trunk/storage area/pickup bed as well, IMNERHO. Also as Reverse lights…
Back to lurking…
Dude! That made me go get out a ruler, since my SAE-calibrated head can’t even imagine 45 mm!!!
(This, of course, led me to discover one of my two pet Trustfire F20s has lost its switch again, so I’m off to take that apart a-gain. :Sp )
At some point, the substrate could serve as the heat sink on these beasts!!!
Puts the wee 20mm speck you’re looking at in a whole new light… (Sorry…)
I look at these behemoths, then look at the parabolic-reflector design concepts I’ve been studying… My poor little head just aches! But with 45mm and 100W to work with, who needs a reflector??
Has any of us actually seen one of these alight?
Thank goodness that one was that dull yellow “Warm White” color, or I’d be in the doghouse again!
I’ll be watching for one in NW… And saving spare change…
Thanks!
Dim
Comfy, I tested it from 11V to 14.4V and it maintained 10W output over that range. Below 11V the output starts to drop off, but nothing bad happens.
A car should not go below 11V unless something is wrong with the electrical system.
Usually it’s sitting between 13 and 15V while running and a charged lead-acid is at 12.6V normally.
Those 100W modules are fun 
I used to make street lighting fixtures with those. They are bright, it’s basically a poor man’s Bridgelux module. The cool white ones are close to 100 lumens/Watt, warm while is closer to 60 lumens/Watt.
I'll try it in this form and see how it does, I think this current driver is making as much heat as the array.
I'm more than a little competent when it comes to the automotive side ;) , it's the circuit design/microcontroller stuff where I'm lacking. I used to be the guy all the other garages in town sent their 'unfixable' cars to to get fixed. That's a great line of work if you want to see what it's like to starve to death, though.
Dim, I assume you haven't seen this? https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/19861
Compared to the real arrays, these ebay things are just toys. But they are cheap, and come in several different white tints and R-G-B, UV, IR(maybe?) flavors as well.
I’m probably going to regret saying this, but…
What about Third Brake Lights? I really didn’t pick my username with anything like this in mind, but wouldn’t that 3rd brake light be a dandy place to put a “disco-only” driver?
Back to lurking…
(and yes, I had seen that, thanks)