G0OSE, I cant take the time in this thread to explain the benefits of High CRI
if you dont find my chicken photo easy to understand, ignore it
High CRI will always show more red than low CRI
there is red content in all sorts of organic things, that we dont know is missing until illuminated with low CRI
look at this photo… I guarantee you the wood is not actually green:
I agree with Jon. Maybe you’ve always been looking at checking under low CRI light. Take it out in Sunlight and compare it. HI CRI is closer to Sunlight in rendering red.
Thanks for the replies, it is interesting lol.
I wasn’t after an explanation Jon, and I do find your photo easy to understand - but thank you for the short explanation it has cleared things up for me a bit 
The top photo looks washed out and yellow-greenish to my eyes. The bottom photo looks more realistic to me. But how you cook chicken can affect the color too… and in some cases rather pale while in other cases more red/brown.
D2 steel knife for $10 shipped if you still have the $10 credit for the cree/nichia mix-up:
^ “SOLD THROUGH” as of 01/13 12:45am
Just got notification from Drop.com with a SHIPPED status for the titanium Lumintop AA tool. USPS tracking number which is being relayed through FedEx. Looking forward to finally seeing the titanium version. The copper one is really nice!
Got the same notification on my regular (new) email on January 15th.
For two days I was updated on every minute detail of packing the little thing.
The only thing that was missing was the length of sticky tape used (kidding).
And then an ear deafening silence set in. Have not heard in 10 days from them.
Every tracking device I used gave the same detailled info. Up to 10 days ago.
(17track, Postal Ninja, DLH, PostNL)
Maybe it’s because I live outside CONUS? Anyone else?
Got an email on the 14th saying my order was being processed and that a shipping confirmation would follow, but still haven’t received one.
I wonder if Chinese New Year might have something to do with the email silence?
I hope you follow up when you get good news, so we can stop worrying…
My E02 is working great, it was worth the wait… I hope you agree
Can someone please give me some tips for what I can do if my Lumintop copper tool does not turn on? I got a XPG3 instead of the 219C that didn't work from the beginning. I swapped the led for a 219B, could not find anything wrong but now it still doesn't work. Do I need to leave the battery inside the flashlight for longer before it will turn on?
yes,
there is a capacitor in the tailswitch that needs to get charged up
Like yours, mine did not turn on when I first put a battery in
After 1 hour with the battery in the light, all the modes work properly
congrats on your 219b mod
The battery needs to be kept in for a few hours to charge the capacitor. Try that if you have not done that yet.
I got mine and I love it, when it works. High mode flickers, medium sometimes too. Anyone know if the stock tailcap from lumintop will work or if the switch can be replaced? I really love the light, when it works. I've left the battery in for days so it isn't a capacitor issue, unless rechargeable AAA batteries are a problem. Thanks in advance.
no flickers on mine, I use eneloop
a couple troubleshooting checks
2. when a battery falls below certain voltages, the high mode, and then the medium mode become difficult for the light to produce… solution, fresh battery
let us know if your light flicker is helped by those fixes…
Is there a way to make this light a twisty by making the tailswitch a solid connection? Like a perfectly sized washer or something?
yes, when the light is switched on, to any mode, you can untwist the head (not the tail) and it turns off and on, and advances modes, like a twisty.
the switch remembers it is on, no need to modify it.
Still getting a flicker, but I can lightly tap the switch and high will come and go. I was amazed at the amount of filth that came from the threads though! I should also mention that this is the Drop version, so the tailswitch is a little different than the standard lumnitop.
In a nutshell, I don't like or trust this switch based on what I've seen so far. So, I'm interested in knowing what my options are for replacing it. I know the lumintop comes with two tailcaps, so that's a possibility. I really want to keep the titanium throughout if possible. I'd like to modify the existing switch to make it more reliable. (mine is the titanium version, not the copper)
I also have the drop version too, with the Electronic Switch, my light happens to be copper
couple more troubleshooting suggestion
1. verify the ring that retains the eSwitch is snug… we want to eliminate possible areas of poor or intermittent contact…
2. after making sure the end of the ti body tube that contacts the pill in the head is free of any grease, make sure to make the head reasonably tight so the titanium can make good contact
personal anectdote
I own a titanium light, that used to flicker, and even go out. It also has an electronic switch. It is not a tool, happens to be a Sunwayman, but, I was sure I had a bad switch…
well… true confession, I was misdiagnosing the problem
what fixed the flickering and switch unreliability was the two items Im suggesting in this post… in particular number 2… I was very surprised, especially since I spent stupid money for a replacement switch, that did not solve the problem …
if all this fails
I suggest you contact drop, they might have a replacement for you (probably an entire light, not just a switch)
there is no reason why you should have to live with a light that flickers due to an unreliable switch (there IS the possibility that your switch has a defect)