Thanks 2100, I was searching on cpf with no results. So it's cpfmarketplace.
Is this flashlight 800g with or without batteries?
Thanks.
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S_A,
This is what I see but doesn't sound like he's selling unless there's been an update (this was dated yesterday). Wonder what tailcap source he used. If you're still not happy with your T4 NW, you're welcome to ship it to the States. I'll give it a good home
I just love mine. It went under the knife and here's how it looks! 
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Crenelation is gone and the exposed aluminum gives it a visual touch. 
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I also changed the tailcap cover with a flat one and now it tailstand perfectly. 
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I think I'll settle for this tint. I just have to get used to the tint in more urban environments, but in nature it's perfect. I can imagine me buying a new NW light and having the same 'problem' but then reversed :). But still it's tempting, but without being able to compare in real life it would be risky :p
800 grams on cnquality's web site must be typo. The Q5 versions of this light both say 450 grams. Anyone know which is correct? Can anyone weight theirs for me pls? 800 grams plus batteries would be pretty heavy.
I can tell that the DRY ways 500g with batteries so 350g empty.
Don't now how they got to 800g (I was already wondering how a TM11 could be 350g only without batteries, didn't weigh the DRY before)
Thanks scheven, I ordered one. I was considering the TM11, but the price and availability of NW with the DRY made it the winner.
Well, I had planned on ordering the NW version but at the last moment went for the WW. I am not sure why I did it except that I have never owned a warm tinted light. I have a couple of neutral ZebraLights. Every thing else I own is cool white.
I also went with the four mode with turbo.
The wait begins. Thanks everyone.
Where did you get the flat tailcap cover?
Anyone know where to get UCL glass of the right diameter?
Thanks all.
Also asking Ric for the new 3C NW. May get a copy and do a comparison for you guys so that you can see the difference in beam colour and light output.
Regarding the rattling UCL lens which is thinner by 0.6mm, an extra bezel O-ring placed on top of the original one solved the issue completely. Should still be pretty much rainproof.
I got my 4-mode LMHT drivers. Ok with the Sanyo 2600 unprotected, i managed to get 2.8A on high (cell voltage 4.185V). But the reflected ceiling bounce is just 170 for the cold white. Comparatively, i am getting 130 for the TF-3T6 and 160 for the Sky Ray SR3800.
I have a feeling that the PWM is affecting the DMM a lot. ie the PWM also pulses the current draw, and the DMM cannot average it out accurately, unless your DMM is one of those higher end models. Mine is a Uni-T UT58E and i am using 4-inch short probes of 18awg.....it's pretty precise on the voltage and current as long as you don't drop it and it's on new batteries, but definitely not a precision instrument, the longer 90cm long ones 18awg would read about 10% less. 18awg is not thin, it's used in my 240V 13A IEC power cables.
Why no turbo? As mentioned, you only do turbo when the voltage is below 4.1V preferably below 4.0V. You have a high risk of burning out the LEDs if you always gun with the cells at 4.24V (with the cheap chargers and if you forget to take them out). Anyway DD is self-explanatory, you get 250 in ceiling bounce and could be 270 for Scheven_architect kind of climate and 290 for Starleaf or Peteybaby who are in Sweden and Northern Vancouver. ie an assload of light. I am more interested in the PWMed modes. :D
Edit : Starleaf PMed me and caught a good point. I mentioned earlier it was ard 160 in high and i measured ~ 2.3A. Why is it now it's 2.8A and still only 160 plus 170? Well the thing is last time i was using a cheaper DMM with long probes. Now I changed to 4-inch long ones. This probe is more than sufficient, i have used awg14 wires which are 1 metre and the values do not change (ie not the limiting factor). Last time lights which gave me 2.5A, now it is 2.8A so everything has increased a bit. But when i measure lux it is with the tailcap. The best is to use awg14 wires and clip to the spring and tailcap to measure I guess.
This reason is also why a lux meter is the best friend that you can have for flashlights, more so than a $1000 calibrated DMM. It really measures OTF (out the front) and takes care of the lens/reflector used, plus shows you the difference between NW and WW, heat sag etc... It is by no means precise as well, but taken to compare readings relatively, it is extremely "precise". You don't even have to care about a little ambient light even, because it is constant and everything is relative.
Ok i shall tabulate the results here :
4.185V Sanyo 2600 unprotected (red colour ones) - 2.80A
4.21V Sanyo 2600 unprotected - 2.86A
4.23V XTAR 2600 protected - 2.54A
4.23V Panasonic 2900 unprotected - 2.6A
4.185V Solarforce 2400 protected - 2.56A
@2100
I am waiting for a multilayer coated lens from kaidomain to arrive, however its the same problem with the thickness of that one… Only 2mm. So where did you find your O-ring?
Thanks 2100.
What do you estimate your OTF lumens are at 2.8A with the Dry?
I saw your video of the Dry in DD vs the TK70. Impressive! What do you estimate the OTF lumens are for DD at the beginning of the run.
With my DMM at 2.8A (real life might not be 2.8A due to PWM messing with the readings - pls note), it's about 1650-1700 lumens OTF. The TK70 is 215 lux on the meter at the same place/same ambient.
You are in California right, from what I see in CPF. Not too cold, but still colder than here in SG! Ugghh...
Request from Ric. BTW I don't know, would you want to cancel from KD? 54mm x 1.9mm fits perfectly for the DRY, just use an additional O-ring, absolutely no rattle and should be rainproof. And it's a UCL, i tested it to really just cut 1% of the light, compared to the 7-12% of the regular budgetlight glass. In fact i measured one to cut 16-17%! WTF?
flashlightlens.com - it's worth it. Even if the light is not switched on, when viewing from the front it really is very clear. Much clearer than my SR3800/3T6.
I finally got a chance to try out my Dry old-4-mode (no turbo) NW on a completely dark trail. I brought along my WF-500 5x XR-E, and my PT Apex headlamp with XM-L T6 mod. The trail is a long, mostly straight gravel road going up into the forest. It was about 11 pm, and about 13 C outside. Random thoughts...
- First of all, I'd like to say that I really like the Xtar WP6 II charger. I bought it with 4 extra spacers (10 spacers in total) so that it's always set up to charge up to three 18650s, two 16340s, and one 14500.
- I love the Dry's 5A3 NW tint. I've never tried a 3C NW, but the 5A3 is superb for my purposes.
- I don't know which tint bin my Apex's XM-L is, but it's CW, and looks lime green in comparison. In use, it is killed by the Dry for colour rendering. Anytime I was using the Apex alone, I felt like I was seeing monochrome. Then I would turn on the Dry and AHHHH that's better. Even if I used the Apex alone for a few minutes first, during which time my brain should have become accustomed to the tint, it was still a great big AHHHH when I turned on the Dry. And when I did the opposite--getting used to the Dry's NW, then switching to the Apex--it was a big YUCK. I had to turn off the Apex.
- My 5x XR-E tint is CW, but less cool/less green than the Apex's XM-L. The tint is acceptable, but it still gets killed by the NW for colour rendering. Whenever I had two or three lights on, it was obvious which areas were being lit by the Apex or WF-500. I usually had to turn those two lights off and let the Dry light the way. Note that this was in a forested area... your mileage may differ.
- I'm totally sold on NW. I am going to have to discard my one spare CW XM-L mcpcb, or find a home for it in a light that I don't use much.
- The WF-500 throws much better than the Dry (remember it's the old 4-mode without turbo). I don't have any measurements or even estimates, but it's a lot better. I would use the WF-500 if I definitely needed throw. On the gravel road, I could see much further up the road with the WF-500. The spot is small though, so I could only see much further up the road as long as I aimed the light properly. The Dry lights up a wide area in front of you, but on a long straight road, there seems to be a hole where the road disappears into darkness.
- When walking, the WF-500's spot jiggles around. Therefore if I really need to see far ahead, I have to concentrate on holding the spot steady. If I don't, the spot jiggles, and it's very distracting to have this bright spot bouncing around in front of me. The Dry has a much wider spot, and a gentler transition between spot and spill, and therefore I don't have to concentrate on holding the light steady. It's the better choice if I want to hold a light at arm's length and just enjoy the walk.
- I had the Dry on High continuously for 15 mins or more. It got warm, but not really hot. I could hold it no problem. Also, after turning the light off, it cooled down quite fast.
- I haven't yet figured out my favourite way of carrying the Dry and switching modes with the same hand. The method I used today: carry the light with my arm hanging down at my side, and curl my pinky so that the side of the pinky--the surface that can touch the ring finger--rests against the switch. I could change modes that way, but turning on/off the light was a bit tougher--I had to use the tip of my pinky to do that.
So which is the winner? The Dry NEW-4-mode NW. :) I don't have the new 4-mode driver yet, but when I get it, it will obviously improve the throw, and that's the only weakness of the old-4-mode NW.
Oh yes, one more thing. Earlier this evening, I was with my sister's family at a restaurant, and I wanted to show them the light. I pulled it out, showed it to them, and clearly stated "don't turn it on". Yeah, they turned it on. And worse, they put it down on the table, tailcap-down, on top of some stuff, so the light changed modes a few times, to M, then H, then strobe! It took me a couple of seconds to reach it and put my hand on top of the lens. This was a previously dark restaurant! I didn't bother looking around to see the annoyed expressions. I don't think any of the other diners were thinking how nice that NW tint looks.
It was nice to read your report, peteybaby.
Leather Hand Made Premium Pouch for the DRY
Price $39