I figure that all the Sky Ray/Trustfire/SBOMZ/Hi-Max/FF also will be unsuitable for ya.
How about the TK70 for your consideration then? Great throw, great draw + current regulation. I tested with Li-ion 2-cells and it's holding up so a 3 cell length is doable and light (1kg only total with cells, instead of 1.4kg). And yup, absolutely unmeasurable PWM. It's just $34 for the cells. If you dig the same 3 x 18650 form factor then the Jetbeam RRT-3 XM-L is released already from the HK sources. Not sure when the TM11 will be released.....
Yep, flickering of the light in modes that are not the highest. They do this to cut down the light intensity. The DMM may not even get you a good current reading as it may not average correctly. 98-99% of the budgetlights have that.
U80 has quite fast a freq - 450Hz. Yezl M7X 500Hz so that is pretty good by budgetlight standards. Shadow TC6 260Hz IIRC. SkyRay STL-V2 200 plus. Etc....
Surprisingly UF-2100 is 1710Hz. This is a 1/30s frame, 57 cycles.
Well, not that i don't care or cannot "appreciate". It's that i am not too bothered by that. It's the fundamental law of budgetlights. I had a meetup with the guys touting 6k worth of military lighting hardware and they feel "hey that's fine and not too objectionable, as long as it performs as it's cheap". So 200Hz is fine. Nobody is throwing away the Ultrafire UF-H2 due to 110Hz PWM at low, and seriously i'd believe a lot of people use that in low. $18 for a really small XR-E light is not cheap. And why is that so....coz there is nothing in the market like that. Well i guess there is the Trustfire...but that's fugly. What to do, i don't want to spend on Sunwayman seahorses.
The only light that i am bothered is the 90Hz Yezl big head XM-L zoomie. That's too low.
Sheesh, my wife even likes PWM. Her comment is "very cool". LOL!
I guess a similar topic exists that's often discussed in photographic forums - It's called pixel peeping. What's the difference between a 3k AF-S 24/1.4 and a $600 Sigma 30/1.4? I have both, and i use both to make money. I use it as it is. :)
If you fixate your eyes on it and "try to measure it with your mind", it will be a problem.
PS. You'd need at least 500Hz for it to be unobjectionable. Very few lights are like that. Two i have mentioned above already, iTP is about maybe 1k. Balder is good, but no triple. Dereelight is also linear but that's Fenix price already. (and no triple!) Xeno same, actually in Fenix range.
Yep, just purchased 2pcs of L-M-H-Turbo drivers. Ask Ray to include the battery discs as well (you see this when you stare at the battery terminals on the head), else he will give you the bare drivers which are located inside, so you will have to unsolder and then solder.
Do note once again that with this, you can charge up your cells to 4.2V and use H at first. Prob current is about 2A plus, still plenty bright and good way to bleed the voltage (it will be very fast). There will be 200 plus Hz PWM.
After the voltage drops to maybe 3.85V, you can switch to Turbo. This brings the current to below 4A. This is a good way to ride the voltage plateau, there won't be any PWM. It would still get hot but heat would be manageable. In winter (approaching) there will be absolutely no issue.
Yep that is correct, not a big deal just more work. But for me i have to change 3 so...... 4 levels now, more than enough for everyone. I just found out that the tf-3t6 has about 40% slower PWM, was measuring last night..
Well one thing when measuring tail current in PWM modes is that the DMM may not sum correctly. It could be higher, it could be lower. That is why i always trust my lux meter. Even if the lux meter is not that accurate, it is "extremely accurate" if you measure correctly and base your readings as relative to other lights. Much more accurate AND repeatable than the best DMM. You also need to add in the point that some budgetlight front lens are pretty thick and i see some lenses the sides look really green, and I have measure glass which cuts like 15% light!
