Dry 3 x XM-L T4 7C. Coming Soon : T5 Neutral White

LED Flashlights – General Info
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Scheven, yes the XTAR 2600s will do for Turbo mode which is probably DD. The XTAR 2600 @ 4.2V just might have its PCB protection kicking in after a second or so in DD, the idea is to drain off some of that juice in a lower setting for about 30 seconds, and it should be ok after that. This is not a fault or "low performance" of the somewhat aggressive PCB protection setting, because the 3S at 12.6V would be draining pretty close to 5 amps for that initial duration of use. This is just a characteristic. Again, i repeat, this is not a fault or that the XTAR 2600s are low performance. To re-confirm, can you guys repeat after me, this is not a fault or that the XTAR 2600s are low in performance?

I have done a TK70 run and DRY cold-white 3-mode DD with XTAR 2600 cells @ 3.95V unloaded (approx 3.7A). TK70 got 450 lux ceiling bounce and DRY 548 lux initial. 520 lux more or less stabilised. DRY 548 -> 520 in 25 seconds. After that DRY 520 drops to 482 lux or 7.3% in 3 more minutes. These are OTF figures. DRY figures are inclusive of both heat soak and very slight cell voltage drop as the cell discharges in that 3 minutes duration.

The TK70 is measured to be 94k @ 1m on the same meter at a measuring distance of 50 metres. Same ballpark as the others, in fact my meter under reads somewhat like 7-10% when comparing other known lights. So this is not an underperforming unit.

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this is not a fault nor are the xtar 2600's low performing

Ric told me he was going to look for driver with LMHT in that order, he didn't know about memory/strobe yet. Showed him my poll.

If it's true that the NW draws 2,2A a decent turbo mode will be a huge difference in output compared to high right?

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I think technically there's is no such thing as decent Turbo mode. If the Turbo is in DD, it's in DD and that is what it is, you put good cells it would pump put the goods in relation to the cell discharge plateau....it's what i have measured and put figures to indicate its performance in the rest of the thread. You have to draw your own conclusions.....because preferences differ so widely, geographical locations hence temperature diurnal ranges differ so greatly, there could also be people who are after Jetbeam RRT-3 triple XM-L performance for $85.

Eg if you are talking about in a tropics country, Turbo @ 4A is definitely brighter than at 2.2A. Not the most efficient, but still brighter significantly.

If you are in a cold country (which you are, pretty cooling there) esp your location is somewhat elevated in the mountains or something, you'd enjoy slightly more output than my location. I guess in Belgium it's at least 10% more.

If you are in a crazy cold country and like Peteybaby in the mountains in Canada, or Russia, Sweden, then the sky's the limit.

Uploaded a vid too...enjoy.

PS. The Xtar 2600s are capable of dumping up to 5A (measured at fully charged 4.2V unloaded cell voltage) to the DRY, before the PCB cuts it off...I measured 5.3A, it cut off. I was using a 10cm short leads to my Uni-T UT58E to measure and sheesh...gave me a fright. I though i messed up the LEDs or driver. Better don't charge it to 4.2V, it's pretty dangerous. 4.1V max please, preferably 4.0V. Do not use IMRs or even NCR18650 2900/NCR18650A 3100 or Sanyo 2600s at 4.2V. It might be over topped off at 4.23V on the charger and that brief 2s instance might be 6-7A.... POOF!

You may wish to bleed off the extra voltage a wee bit by running in other XM-L lights to 4.15V, and from then on further down to 4V for use in the DRY in low mode. It's an extra step but not tedious that it's not doable. (part of the hobby man)

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Hi there and thanks for your input 2100.

Yes, Sweden can actually have really low temperatures some times, even though we also happen to have tropical night per definition, when temperature never goes under 20 degrees C even at night. However, those nights are quite rare unfortunately ;-) Maybe we should swap homes for a while as you seems to like cold weather, and I like tropical nights :-)

Anyways, I also think the DD version should be a nice choice for me. Besides low temperatures, we also suffer from very long dark nights wintertime, so we are in great need of lots of lumens here, and I think the DD version of the DRY could help out there.

Ok about the batteries... Have actually planned to go with Rics Sanyos, as I understand that there is a risk of eventual disaster/explosion if I use for instance the trustfire flames I own.

Regarding the driver that was also a pity that the 3 mode version is now sold out. I personally prefer either starting in high mode, or having a reliable memory function, such as in the KD C8 for example.

I had plans to use it during shooting competitions at night. During such circumstances you want to be able to have instant max power during for example 10seconds. (I dont have the time to switch modes to reach turbo as you can understand)

As I am not too familiar with swapping drivers, are there any easy way to achieve a driver that I dont have to modify too much? Just a replacement to the driver which provides DD, either in High mode first, or with memory?

After looking in the thread as Scheven wrote, maybe Ric's coming up with another driver due to the result of his poll...

Thanks for your knowhow, its much appreciated.

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Starleaf, i see. The 3-mode would have been perfect for you. No mode memory, starts in High direct drive. Simple, effective.

But it is somewhat floody, i have no issue with that....but some may not want the extra spill on the ground to blind yourself with.

Can i repeat myself here? It'd be Fxxxing bright light of 150mm length in Sweden in winter esp with wind there.

For a carry weapon light, do consider Elzetta. Or Fenix TK12. Without a spring system and the weight, the DRY may not be the best, unless you are not mounting this to the gun. You do get spill + throw, hence if engaging multiple targets via peripherial vision, this could be good. You will easily see into 100m. I'm not an expert in this area, so will let the reviews do the talking...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWenBsNRC_I

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"After looking in the thread as Scheven wrote, maybe Ric's coming up with another driver due to the result of his poll..."

Yes, Ric will be returning to work in a day or so and said he's in the process of evaluating what the next driver mode setup will be. If there's still a window of time I hope he'll consider L-M-H-Turbo. If he wants to keep strobe, put that after Turbo. I also hope he incorporates memory (as long as there's no parasitic drain). Is L-M-H at 2.2amps good enough or would you push that to 2.8 amps?

-JH

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Jbudget, 2.8-3A is better for high. Turbo remains in DD. It'll eventually slide anyway when it hits the voltage plateau during discharge.....

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The revised driver didn't hit 2,8-3A either so hopefully this 4 or 5-mode will.

2100 there is now 100+ km/h wind here and 15° (probably 5-10 at night) so ideal for DD madness :d

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I love all your countries!

At 100kph, me thinks the DRY can fly.

Don't need no stinking heatsink fins, air temp 15 deg C, DRY host temp 15.6 deg C after 20 mins.

Ehh...50kph only dah... http://www.wunderground.com/global/stations/06400.html

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Well not here koksijde is still 50 km from where i live that can mean a huge difference :d

a flag just got ripped off at the gaz station nextdoor :), but the wind isn't constant, this summer was really bad weather: autumn since july ...

What are the lowest normal temperatures in singapore? I think average here is 5-10°C at night (all seasons)

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It's 2AM now and temp's 29 deg C. Sometimes the hot nights we'll get 31 deg C, when it rains heavily for more than 2 hours it can get as low as 24 deg C, sometimes 22-23 on very rare occasions. That's about it.

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Ok, seems like a nice light, the TK15. However, I didn't have plans to mount it on a weapon like in the video, so for my purpose I still think the DRY is perfect. Just wait and hope the 5 mode driver will be fine. Besides the shooting scenario, it would be no big issue to cycle through the modes, even though a nice working memory function is welcome.

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Can anyone give me a 'light' (not particulary flashlight) i could compare the NW of the DRY with or a picture in which i can see light that realistically displays how the NW tint of the DRY looks like? I'm really dying here to know it, because in his review of drjones said a bit warmer than he would like it: i have the DRY staring at me from my desk but due to having no working carrier I can't power the puppy up :(

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NEW driver will be LO>MID>HI>Direct Drive with Memory. 100 pieces will come back within one week.

Ric

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O ye! I'll take one (after getting my carrier) :)!

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L/M/H/D will be a winner.

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Not if it will have bad PWM at L/M/H

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What exactly is 50% PWM? Maybe someone like you (hike, 2100) should contact Ric about it? I have him added on MSN, but i don't have the technical knowledge to start a conversation about that.

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A mistake of mine I was thinking @ the High DRJones described with 206 hz PWM and being 50% of the 4 amps DD .

You can see it with your eyes probably.

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So what exactly does it mean? flickering of the light? waste of energy?