That could be a problem. Ultra awareness of the flashlight modes is fatiguing me. I am a big fan of two modes or those Jetbeam drivers that you can choose how high to be you high.
Hehe, but i think with Turbo on, the body gets hot that fast that you will notice it by feel too in case you forgot the mode or not? Another solution would be a timing mechanism that sets Turbo to high after x minutes, but I don't know if that's technically possible.
It's possible, it's been done already in normal? sized lights like my T20c2 MKII.
Ye i remember some non budget lights too i saw reviews of which had this feature but this will probably a much more advanced/expensive driver.
Hikelite: you would prefer strobe first or not? Because what i think about it is that it might be a warning for going into Turbo, but once in Turbo you can forget it again. I think the most dangerous part is running it in Turbo (but probably high too) when you forgot you turned it on (but how do you do that with 2000+ lumen :)?) and you leave it somewhere. When holding you should feel the heat right, I don't think much people will keep it on Turbo while their hand is melting :p
scheven_architect : the part with the hand being the warning is true, 2100 said the same. However I do not like browsing through modes, and if the H is too close to Turbo, it will be a underwhelming feeling for me. Maybe you should have gotten the H-L-Strobe. I would have bought that one, if the H wasn't direct drive. I was very pleased with the "described" regulated high @ 2.8A-3A on the 4 Mode ,which so far no one reported as so. I will have to buy a DMM, but I don't really want to buy a cheap one.
To answer you directly I do not like the 5 Mode even if the Strobe is at the end. It can be harder when you have options, Which one to get? should I wait? maybe I should ask for another option? See what I mean?
Indeed I get it! But the 3-mode I would have never bought, because although I know this lights purpose is to throw out a huge amount of light, but I still like having a lower mode. Also building up the output is something that i really like. I do not know how much output difference there is on High vs Turbo but Ric told me it was considerable.
Well i guess I'll wait until i get my replacement carrier, use the 4-mode for a while and than decide wether or not to go for a 5-mode (but only if it has LMHTS).
scheven_architect
This might be helpful, how to access the driver.
Ty! I think that should be sufficient for my friend to understand it :d. Really hoping to get my replacement carrier next week, but maybe that's lil' bit too optimistic. Once shipped from the US (sbflashlights) it only took 4 days for the light to get here but they waited 10 days before dispatching it.
Maybe they waited until it arrived from China.
That could have been the case, they told me their next shipment was in 10 days so don't know if they were talking about incoming our outgoing products. But it was fast anyway :) expected to get my stuff in 3-4 weeks but even the things i ordered in china got here in 7 workings days :o
These lights sound good, but I decided against the beer-can design... too fat for carpal tunneled wrists.
Rich
I have small hands myself and it's ok but it shouldn't have been fatter :). But i really like it being short and compact. I thought the light would be provided with a lanyard but it doesn't so i'll make something myself as i think this lights really needs it.
You are more of a "plunger" type of guy?
haha or maybe the DRY aint 'phallic' enough, some friends of me thought that was the reason of my interest in flashlights, although i'm the only one with a girlfriend :)
That clearly explains their mentality.
Yeah I have an 8-mode light. Luckily I only have to remember the first 4 modes because the light has no memory and I only use the first 4 modes.
With the Dry, it probably depends on what people want to use it for. If you have a bunch of lights, and you grab a light based on what you're heading out to do that day, then the 3-mode version is probably appropriate. But if you EDC the light, as I plan to do, then the 4-mode or 5-mode is appropriate.
It would be great if the driver could make the Turbo mode drop to High or Medium every 10 seconds or so, just for a few milliseconds, as a visual reminder that the light is on Turbo. Hmm... maybe that would be annoying though. Every 30 s perhaps?
Another great feature would be a rotating selector ring, but that would probably add $50 to the price, so I prefer the cheaper simpler way the Dry is now.
I just received mine, neutral white and 4-mode.
I really do not like the driver. It's "current regulation" in high mode is direct drive with average current brought down to ~2A by a 50%-PWM with 206Hz, so there's a noticeable PWM even in high. Furthermore this method is inefficient, because the XM-L at real 2A would be clearly brighter than the 50% of an XM-L at 4A.
Just posted a review.
Hello everybody.
This is my first post, so I hope it works from my smart phone.
I found this forum quite a while ago and have found it very useful with all the great reviews and info.
It was the review by “flashlight” of the KD C8 which made me buy a couple of those nice lights. Another review convinced me to “invest” in the pocket rocket UF 980l. And now I feel a crave for the DRY 
I have a small collection of lights ranging from black cat, ultrafire c3 ss (love that one), some fried AA akorays, multicell q5, c78 zoom light and an aurora ak p7, besides the xml’s.
I have however never modded a light with new drivers etc.
And that brings me to the question about the driver.
I was just about to buy the 3 mode cw DRY, when it was sold out.
I don’t mind several modes in a driver with good memory function, such as in the KD C8 for example. Also the driver in the UF 980l works fine for me. Now I wonder if it’s possible to use one of those kind of drivers in the DRY? (if it’s possible to buy just those drivers separately?)
The problem with no memory in the driver for me is that I sometimes wish to be able to start in high mode, even if it’s not a deal breaker.
Starleaf, you live in Sweden. Congratulations! You are in a country which has low enough temps with wind at night during winter to make the full use of all these DD lights, great cooling + extra output as compared to me as i am in the tropics (Ugh!!!). Don't get me wrong, it is still plenty bright here, just that i am just wasting that approx 15% more lumens that is achievable in your country. That's maybe 10-11W additional dumped to the host as heat here, while at your place that's like converted into ~350 lumens. (still relatively inefficient, but heck did anybody complain about Surefire a couple of years ago with hotwires??)
Charge the cells to 4.0V and you are good to go....also good for the 18650s for the max life dah.... LOL!. They are doing approx 4A at 4.0V unloaded and good cells aka Sanyos/Panasonics, in my DRY and SR3800 DDed. Even using it from 3.9V down is cool, no worries.
Do not worry about losing capacity from 4.0-4.2V range, there is very very little capacity to be appreciated in that range. Check out th cells discharge graphs.
For batteries, i'd ask you not to take chances with this 3S config. If you are planning to dig the cells till near empty, i'd advise you to get the XTAR 2600 protected which have Sanyo hearts, do a forum search it is just $27 shipped with registered air mail for 4 cells. If you are planning to keep it pretty much charged up and use the main range from 3.5V-3.9V, the Sanyo unprotected which Ric / CNQG is selling has a great flat discharge plateau and cost you 15 bucks for 3. Mitro tested this with one of the flattest discharge plateau.
3 x 18650, lots of juice if you wanna do Panasonic NCR18650A 3100mAh, fun flashlight...no worries.
No, those drivers do not work in the DRY.
Would protected xtar 2600 batteries do the job for turbo-mode?